06-17-2016, 01:05 PM | #4019 |
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I live in Texas, autox religiously (30+ events a year), and track regularly (6-8 per year). From June-September we are lucky if it is under 100*F and during the summer the lows creep into the mid 80's.
Step 1: hydrate. I freeze a 2L of water and take a couple of sports drinks with me to each event and rarely come back with anything other than empties. Step 2: cooling for the car. Wrap/coat your headers, get an oil cooler, drop in a bigger radiator (if needed). Don't skimp on the mods that prevent the stuff that keeps you from driving. Step 3: acceptance. It will be hot, you will get hot, the car will get hot, and no one will feel sorry for you. Deal with it, there is no other solution. |
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06-17-2016, 02:26 PM | #4020 |
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Buy a spare coil and swap it out next time you get the CEL. That's my plan anyway, cause I know it will happen sooner or later and I don't want it to impact my fun.
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06-17-2016, 02:44 PM | #4021 | |
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Quote:
What I'm trying to figure out if there's a correlation between high temperatures, the 0351 code, potential damage to the coil packs (or if it's really just a sensor error) and if the situation is being made worse from my unwrapped header. There's already a big debate if the header should be wrapped and Open Flash has suggested not to. But if it means NOT overheating the car, I'd still consider it. I just don't want to go through the hassle and expense if it's not likely to make a difference. For what it's worth, 6 weeks to the day that I set foot in the VIR paddock, I was up at Watkins Glen where the HIGH was 48*F, the rain was pelting down and the wind was blowing right through you. If you didn't keep moving, you lost feeling in your fingers and toes. The only comfortable place to be was the men's room because it had a small heater blowing. My main concern that day was that the oil cooler wasn't allowing the oil to get up to normal operating temperature just driving to the track. So I'm dealing with some extremes here. I'm a bit embarrassed to admit this, but I don't turn wrenches and I have very little mechanical knowledge. I swap my wheels and tires and not much more. Exactly what's involved in replacing the coil pack? |
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06-17-2016, 03:07 PM | #4022 | ||
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Quote:
Some compounds may not take well to that, idk, but I'd feel confident trying it at least once on other makes. Quote:
Replacing isn't impossible, but I wouldn't want to try it between sessions, it's going to be mighty hot in there. It's the boot that goes on the spark plug, so it's like changing the spark plug, without changing the spark plug, but it's a subaru so, boxer engine yay. This thread covers most of it all: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30879 And here's a quick DIY without pictures: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...&postcount=198 You can also follow any DIY spark plug replacement, just don't change the spark plugs and swap out the coilpacks. Edit: Delaying the inevitable in case a stealth upgrade gets inserted into the product line to extend their lifespan. I've had it happen once on the street and at about half the track days I've gone to, never at an autox. |
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06-17-2016, 03:19 PM | #4023 |
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So...are you basically saying, once it starts throwing the code, it's kind of a given that it will keep doing it? If that's the case I guess it would just make sense to have it replaced now. As I said, somewhat ironically, in 3 years and about 25 some odd track days, it's the first time I've ever had the check engine light come on. And thanks for the link. I'll have a look.
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06-17-2016, 03:29 PM | #4024 |
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Yes, it will keep happening. Replace it now before it ruins another track day.
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06-17-2016, 03:32 PM | #4025 | |
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It won't break anything to my knowledge, but it did pull power for me and it does obscure a warning light that may actually be of importance. But people have blown the car up without a single check engine light, I'm starting to think it's more useless than I had assumed... |
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06-17-2016, 03:45 PM | #4026 | |
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Quote:
2. Your coil pack is already degraded; that flashing slip light is your car repeatedly tripping a CEL, from misfiring. You'll also feel hesitation in your power delivery, and can see it in logs. 3. No need, but wrapping the header can marginally improve power. 4. Absolutely. Preserve the car. Although you're not racing, remember, in a race, if you don't finish, you're last. You should see the 120+ temps we get out here in California Also, get rid of that OFT, and get a proper tune. |
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06-17-2016, 04:54 PM | #4027 |
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Got it! Thanks everybody for the input!
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06-17-2016, 04:58 PM | #4028 |
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Thunder Hill is often a bit hotter than 100 in the summer.
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06-17-2016, 06:01 PM | #4029 | |
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Too bad I wasn't there you could have had my spare ♥
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06-17-2016, 08:43 PM | #4030 |
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Tein SRC CSG spec: torque for the top front camber adjustment bolts?
I was planning to install it tomorrow, rechecked the instructions and realized there's no mention about the torque for the 4 nuts that you loosen to slide the top of the front strut in the plate to adjust the camber. Suspension thread and this thread don't have the answer either (unless I don't know how to use google). Anybody has the official values from Tein? I believe I have common sense but I don't feel like guessing these. Thanks, Florin |
06-18-2016, 03:04 AM | #4031 | |
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Quote:
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06-18-2016, 03:37 AM | #4032 |
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Generally my advise is whatever the length of the tool, go to firm and its usually about right. Then again my entire job involves doing up bolts on multi million dollar pieces of equipment that can cost tens of millions through downtime.
As for the heat it happens. Get shade, hydrate some people here even bring small fans that they sit in front of. Working in environments where its 45C+ every day and next to equipment running running at 1300C gives you some tolerance I guess. I just have a spare coilpack for the day it starts throwing codes to chuck in. |
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