Does it look like my axle nut went bad? Clicking noise on acceleration.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by Hyper4mance2k

The axle nut is $12.

FYI, $7.60 on amazon right now, $3.60-$4.60 through a few random Subaru parts sites, usually takes a bit longer to ship though.

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Subaru-902170049-Axle-Nut/dp/B00I7996N8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462217923&sr=8-1&keywords=brz+axle+nut"]Amazon.com: Subaru 902170049 Axle Nut: Automotive[/ame]


http://www.partswebsite.com/subaruca...&image=7610475
(Part #10)

https://www.subarupartsamerica.com/p...ent=Axle%20nut

http://www.fastwrx.com/products/axle-nut-28386

Was also quoted ~$12/nut at the Toyota dealership, said thanks and ordered it online when I got home.

[rice_classic]

Originally Posted by Hyper4mance2k

Everyone always jumps to the axle, when more often than not, it is just a bad nut.

A threaded stub, a threaded nut. Apply torque and the two things are fastened.

How does the axle nut "fail" when it will still hold 145ft/lbs of torque? I supposed I don't understand. If it's holding 145 ft/lbs and there's still enough movement for something to click, then something isn't seated, something isn't "clamped".

Is it binding which therefore keeps it from applying the clamping force? Is it a fluke where the axle isn't seated right and the act of removing the nut and fastening a new once causes it to seat right making people think it's a failed nut? (I've seen that happen on non-subarus).

So questioning the broader audience as I would like this one explained.

[Hyper4mance2k]

Originally Posted by rice_classic

A threaded stub, a threaded nut. Apply torque and the two things are fastened.

How does the axle nut "fail" when it will still hold 145ft/lbs of torque? I supposed I don't understand. If it's holding 145 ft/lbs and there's still enough movement for something to click, then something isn't seated, something isn't "clamped".

Is it binding which therefore keeps it from applying the clamping force? Is it a fluke where the axle isn't seated right and the act of removing the nut and fastening a new once causes it to seat right making people think it's a failed nut? (I've seen that happen on non-subarus).

So questioning the broader audience as I would like this one explained.

Because the torque doesn't have to be applied across the entire mating surface of the nut. The nuts are soft enough that you can bend them in your hands. If the nut is bent you can torque it to 150 ft lbs and the axle stub will still make noise as it slops around in the knuckle...

[Hyper4mance2k]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

FYI, $7.60 on amazon right now, $3.60-$4.60 through a few random Subaru parts sites, usually takes a bit longer to ship though.

Amazon.com: Subaru 902170049 Axle Nut: Automotive


http://www.partswebsite.com/subaruca...&image=7610475
(Part #10)

https://www.subarupartsamerica.com/p...ent=Axle%20nut

http://www.fastwrx.com/products/axle-nut-28386

Was also quoted ~$12/nut at the Toyota dealership, said thanks and ordered it online when I got home.

Neat. I was talking about the price from the dealer. And, why bother to look at prices when I already paid for it when I paid for the warranty. I wouldn't spend a penny for something that I already paid for when I bought the car. Also, wash and vacuum my car before you give it back to me.

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by Hyper4mance2k

The dealer cannot charge you a fee for inspecting.

Actually, they can do whatever they want. It's the customer's choice as to whether they want to do business there or not...

-alex

[Hyper4mance2k]

Originally Posted by mav1178

Actually, they can do whatever they want. It's the customer's choice as to whether they want to do business there or not...

-alex

No you're wrong. On a warranty claim, you are Subaru's customer, not a customer of Billy Bob's Klondik Subaru. They are a service provider, and they are providing service for their employer, Subaru of America. They are contractually obligated to offer warranty service if they chose to be a Subaru dealer. They are a 3rd party contractually obligated to provide service to Subaru's customers. Subaru of American is the dealership's customer. If they don't, and you are willing to bring it to Subaru corporate, the dealer can lose their ability to be a certified dealer, to be a Subaru dealer at all. It rarely happens, but I've seen instances of dealers being penalized for abuse. I've consulted as an expert on arbitration before. Mazda dealerships took a hit on failing to warranty rear axle housings for Mazdaspeed 6 owners. Dealers were trying to tell people it was abuse, charging them for the service, blah blah blah. In the long run and after a few lawsuits, Mazda figured out that the housing, bolts, and mount were 3 different metals and under lead they were operating at different temps and in sheet the bolts were walking out.
The only reason dealers get away with this is because people don't know any better. Just look at any given forum on any given day and you will find a "will this void my warranty" thread. Nothing will void your warranty. Nothing can void your warranty! You are legally protected. The manufacturer can find that a failure was due to something out of their control e.g.: your Eibach Sportlines that dropped your car 2 inches shockingly blew your struts, and they don't have to replace it.
Warranties on cars and car parts have huge legal implications. I helped a friend take a major engine manufacturer to court for an engine failure. He was spraying 100HP dry-shot of N2O. The engine builder couldn't prove with any evidence that it was the N2O that cause the engine failure, and they had to "replace" it. Common knowledge isn't legally binding.

[elyugi1]

Originally Posted by Hyper4mance2k

The dealer cannot charge you a fee for inspecting. The axle nut is $12. It is literally 10 minutes to change it. Tell them that Subaru pays them for warranty work, not you. If they try to tell you something else caused it, call Subaru corporate 1-800-SUBARU3 (1-800-782-2783)

I don't know why dealerships are such scumbags about warranty work. They would rather fight with you and bully their customers into paying, than do the extra paperwork to get paid from Subaru. It's not like they're doing it for free. Subaru pays the dealers for warranty work. Stop letting these dealerships take advantage of you. Stop rewarding bad behavior.

"I am not leaving until you fix my car, and I am not paying you a dime. I paid you when I bought this car. I paid for a warranty; now do your job before I make a scene."

would it work if i drive a frs.

[elyugi1]

heres the thing my car does a similar sound as the video but not as often or loud but its noticible when it does it. so i call and they told me that bullcrap they got to inspected and if the damage was done by anything and not its own ill have to pay the fee of 125 but i drive the TOYOTA MODEL FRS will never buy toyota again poor service. any advice on how to deal with them. i even bought the extended warranty platinum and there acting like ****s.

[Hyper4mance2k]

Originally Posted by elyugi1

would it work if i drive a frs.

Call Toyota. Your contract is with them. On warranty claims you are Toyota's customer. The dealer is providing service for Toyota. The dealer is refusing to honor their contract with Toyota by trying to make a few more bucks an hour by billing you directly.
If they do not they are in violation of their contract to provide service to Toyota's customers.

It's the same shit as walking into Lowe's to have, whatever, windows installed. So you buy the windows, and the contractor shows up to your house ans says, if you pay them directly, they can save you $500. And they do that because Lowe's was charging you $2000 for the install, paying the contractor $1000. So the contractor is literally making more money by undercutting their employer to steal their customer. This is why contract laws exist.

[Hyper4mance2k]

Originally Posted by elyugi1

heres the thing my car does a similar sound as the video but not as often or loud but its noticible when it does it. so i call and they told me that bullcrap they got to inspected and if the damage was done by anything and not its own ill have to pay the fee of 125 but i drive the TOYOTA MODEL FRS will never buy toyota again poor service. any advice on how to deal with them. i even bought the extended warranty platinum and there acting like ****s.

You see, the dealership doesn't care. They make pennies on new car sales. The profit of owning a dealership is in the service department & used car sales.

Never bother to call. What can they tell you over the phone? Doctor my arm hurts, well go into the doctor. They cant tell you anything over the phone. They tell you that BS, and you're in their hands as soon as you walk into the door.

https://www.consumer.ftc.gov/article...intenance#will

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by Hyper4mance2k

Neat. I was talking about the price from the dealer. And, why bother to look at prices when I already paid for it when I paid for the warranty. I wouldn't spend a penny for something that I already paid for when I bought the car. Also, wash and vacuum my car before you give it back to me.

Because I value my time more than the principle of warranty, even an hour sitting at the dealership for a free $12 nut or two waiting for the ten minutes of labor it takes to install is a losing proposition for me, not just monetarily.

Then factor in the reality of going out of my way to drop the car off, arrange transportation, pick the car up, and the risk of a fight to get what's mine.

Edit: Also the possibility that they may do a poor job of performing the fix, the possibility that they may just lie to you about the work they're doing or not doing? People have picked up cars that were in worse conditions than before, and related to this specific issue, well remember this thread from a few weeks back?
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102929

Fuck
That
Shit

Never buying new again. You're right, I paid for it, and I wish I didn't.

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by elyugi1

i call the dealer to make a appoinment they said they go to inspected but if something from outside cause theproblem imma have to pay the fee of 125. im not lower or anything everything is stock. only done muffler delete thats it...any advise before i head to the dealer?

Originally Posted by Hyper4mance2k

No you're wrong. On a warranty claim, you are Subaru's customer, not a customer of Billy Bob's Klondik Subaru.

Uh... read the above post.

I'm fairly certain the dealer is saying "if something can't be warrantied we'll have to charge you a $125 inspection fee"...

How will a dealer know if it's a warranty claim or not? If a dealer inspects and determine that it is not a warranty claim situation, do they just give up an hour or two of free labor?

If it's a warranty claim, they are a service provider. If it is not, they are selling you a service. A lot of times, they can only guarantee you (as a customer) won't shaft them unless an inspection fee was initially levied. That can easily be refunded if it escalates to a warranty situation.

-alex

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Hyper4mance2k

No you're wrong. On a warranty claim, you are Subaru's customer, not a customer of Billy Bob's Klondik Subaru. They are a service provider, and they are providing service for their employer, Subaru of America. They are contractually obligated to offer warranty service if they chose to be a Subaru dealer. They are a 3rd party contractually obligated to provide service to Subaru's customers. Subaru of American is the dealership's customer. If they don't, and you are willing to bring it to Subaru corporate, the dealer can lose their ability to be a certified dealer, to be a Subaru dealer at all. It rarely happens, but I've seen instances of dealers being penalized for abuse. I've consulted as an expert on arbitration before. Mazda dealerships took a hit on failing to warranty rear axle housings for Mazdaspeed 6 owners. Dealers were trying to tell people it was abuse, charging them for the service, blah blah blah. In the long run and after a few lawsuits, Mazda figured out that the housing, bolts, and mount were 3 different metals and under lead they were operating at different temps and in sheet the bolts were walking out.
The only reason dealers get away with this is because people don't know any better. Just look at any given forum on any given day and you will find a "will this void my warranty" thread. Nothing will void your warranty. Nothing can void your warranty! You are legally protected. The manufacturer can find that a failure was due to something out of their control e.g.: your Eibach Sportlines that dropped your car 2 inches shockingly blew your struts, and they don't have to replace it.
Warranties on cars and car parts have huge legal implications. I helped a friend take a major engine manufacturer to court for an engine failure. He was spraying 100HP dry-shot of N2O. The engine builder couldn't prove with any evidence that it was the N2O that cause the engine failure, and they had to "replace" it. Common knowledge isn't legally binding.

Just how you can choose not to go to a specific dealer, the dealer also has the right to not accept a specific customer.

Dealers will often (and rightly so) charge a diagnostic fee to see if your complaint/issue is a warranty issue. If it does turn out to be a warranty issue, then the fee is 100% refunded, every time. This up-front fee filters out a lot of false issues, where someone is trying to "sneak it in".

If it's very obvious that it's a warranty issue, then obviously the diagnostic fee won't be charged; the dealer already knows the manufacturer will pay for the warranty work.

[rice_classic]

Originally Posted by Hyper4mance2k

Because the torque doesn't have to be applied across the entire mating surface of the nut. The nuts are soft enough that you can bend them in your hands. If the nut is bent you can torque it to 150 ft lbs and the axle stub will still make noise as it slops around in the knuckle...

Even if it's not flat, the clamping force of 150ft/lbs of the axle into the hub should keep the entire assembly from flop/slop/slip/play. So you're saying the nut is torquing to 150ft/lbs but the axle stub/hub/nut are not getting clamped together as an assembly. A bent axle nut, that can still be threaded and torqued on the axle stub and against the hub surface will still enact the 150ft/lbs of clamping force of the axle stub face into the hub. Play would only happen if that clamping didn't take place, as if the torque stick clicked at 150ft/lbs before the nut fully engaged with the mating surface. To cause a click, that is as audible as in that video it would have be pretty significant and prospect is frightening.

I'm still skeptical. Any images of this failure? Or of this axle nut not failing to perform its task?