Oil Analysis - 1st oil change

[rapinger]

Originally Posted by qqzj

Has anybody seen Blackstone produced any negative report for BRZ? If I have to use one sentence to summarize the results, my choice would be:

Any 0w20 works just fine!

LOL

Funny, I read through the thread, and was about to ask which oil is the go to oil for most people, but your right. seems like pretty much anything works.

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by qqzj

Has anybody seen Blackstone produced any negative report for BRZ? If I have to use one sentence to summarize the results, my choice would be:

Any 0w20 works just fine!

LOL

There was quite a bit of backlash against Blackstone on nasioc when an Amsoil dealer was bad mouthing them there. The new DIT WRX's are having very high fuel dilution and Blackstone's method for fuel dilution extrapolates the fuel reading based on the flashpoint and they do not actually test the oil for fuel. The Amsoil guy got a little out of hand and the President of Blackstone started posting.

My problem with them is that they will see a WRX uoa with apparent high fuel dilution, the viscosity is a 20 grade from contamination and/or shearing, and they will advise someone to go an additional 2,000 miles on that oil because the "uoa wear numbers are normal", even if it is beyond the interval that Subaru recomends. This article warns against reading too much into one or two random uoa's and using uoa's to compare oil in general.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/used-oil-analysis/

Having said that, the twins do seem to tolerate well on most oils in street conditions. Thank God you guys have the Toyota DI system!

[Xiao Li]

Just wanted to add my analysis:

This is from my 2nd oil change. First change was done by Subaru dealership.
After that I switched to Castrol Edge 0w-20. Stock car, no modifications, OEM filter.
So just to be clear:
factory fill ►► dealer fill(1st) ►► Castrol Edge(2nd)



Future posts will be of analyses of same oil on JRSC(CARB tune) and other weights that I'll be playing around with from Castrol.

[kch]

Adding another. Iron levels finally down. I can worry less now!

[Xiao Li]

Here's another: 4th change, 0w-30 Euro Castrol, supercharged. (forgot to sample on the 3rd change)

[C4RBON]

Here are my oil reports. I've been using OEM 0W20 and plan to continue doing so.

[kch]

[Blorb]

This was on Toyota 0w20, 6620 miles on the oil, 32720 miles on the engine.

After seeing that Blackstone might be under estimating fuel dilution, I decided to try the Amsoil analysis service. Costs about the same, and they had a faster turnaround.

The reports are very similar, I think "Base Number" is TBN, no idea what oxidation and nitration mean.

One thing I found out afterwards is that they don't do a real fuel dilution test unless the oil has thinned out enough that it no longer meets its stated grade. In my case the viscosity was 7.2 which is within range for a 0w20, so they didn't do the real test (that's what "<1 - estimate" means).

Overall, not sure which service I prefer. If I had a car with fuel dilution problems I would probably stick with the Amsoil service to hopefully get real numbers, but since I've never seen a stock toyobaru with bad fuel dilution it probably doesn't matter for us.

[bluesubie]

Blorb - OAI includes TBN while Blackstone charges you an additional $10 so you do get more bang for your buck. For more info on oxidation and nitration, check out this pdf:

(page 11)
https://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2047.pdf
Oxidation measures the breakdown of the lubricant due to age and operating conditions. Nitration occurs when nitrogen oxides react with the lubricant, causing deposit formation and an increase in viscosity. Note that oxidation and nitration readings do not begin at zero.

OAI will do a fuel reading by gas chromatography if you request it but I don't think it's needed on a stock 86 with the excellent multipoint injection. It would be more useful on an aftermarket tune to see if you're running rich. OTOH, a WRX OAI uoa typically shows ~2.5 -~5.5% fuel dilution.

[travisb]

Speaking of fuel... This is my first report since adding openflash UEL header. I've had the openflash tablet and tune for about a year. Thoughts on this?

[bluesubie]

Need more comments on your driving conditions. Do you make a lot of short trips? Did you bring the engine up to normal operating temp. before taking the sample? If no and yes, the fuel is likely just the result of the tune running a little rich for safety.

Are e-tunes or any type of professional tune offered for the OpenFlash? You're probably fine with the OTS tune, but a protune will probably dial back some of the fuel. You could also bump up the viscosity and just run oil from Wal-Mart and change it more frequently. A GF-5 5W-30 (OTS Mobil 1, Pennzoil, Castrol, etc.) will shear to a 20 grade anyway (also will be a 20 grade from fuel contamination) so the oil will not be that much thicker.

If you stick with Amsoil, I would go with OE or XL since SS is really for extended intervals.

[FRSBRZGT86FAN]

Originally Posted by travisb

Speaking of fuel... This is my first report since adding openflash UEL header. I've had the openflash tablet and tune for about a year. Thoughts on this?

I thinks it's fine it's a marginable, if by the next one it increases then it's an issue and time to datalog and see what you're afr is like.

Originally Posted by bluesubie

Need more comments on your driving conditions. Do you make a lot of short trips? Did you bring the engine up to normal operating temp. before taking the sample? If no and yes, the fuel is likely just the result of the tune running a little rich for safety.

Are e-tunes or any type of professional tune offered for the OpenFlash? You're probably fine with the OTS tune, but a protune will probably dial back some of the fuel. You could also bump up the viscosity and just run oil from Wal-Mart and change it more frequently. A GF-5 5W-30 (OTS Mobil 1, Pennzoil, Castrol, etc.) will shear to a 20 grade anyway (also will be a 20 grade from fuel contamination) so the oil will not be that much thicker.

If you stick with Amsoil, I would go with OE or XL since SS is really for extended intervals.

e-tunes are available its just they can only dial it in so much for what I assume is a mostly stock car with only a UEL stage 2 tune

[travisb]

Originally Posted by bluesubie

Need more comments on your driving conditions. Do you make a lot of short trips? Did you bring the engine up to normal operating temp. before taking the sample? If no and yes, the fuel is likely just the result of the tune running a little rich for safety.

Originally Posted by FRSBRZGT86FAN

I thinks it's fine it's a marginable, if by the next one it increases then it's an issue and time to datalog and see what you're afr is like.

The car is basically stock other than the tune and header. The vast majority of my driving is 30 minute commute to and from work. This sample was taken after about a 20 minute drive.

One of the o2 sensors in the header keeps coming loose and vibrates. It does not come off because it would have to twist the wires to get off. It only turns about 1/2 a turn but it is enough that I can hear it vibrating at certain rpm.

I am guessing that could be throwing the reading off and causing the system to run richer.

[FRSBRZGT86FAN]

Originally Posted by travisb

The car is basically stock other than the tune and header. The vast majority of my driving is 30 minute commute to and from work. This sample was taken after about a 20 minute drive.

One of the o2 sensors in the header keeps coming loose and vibrates. It does not come off because it would have to twist the wires to get off. It only turns about 1/2 a turn but it is enough that I can hear it vibrating at certain rpm.

I am guessing that could be throwing the reading off and causing the system to run richer.

Datalogging would be your best bet