Cold Start Help

[FRSBRZGT86FAN]

Originally Posted by mike7792

I've been finding that it takes a really long time before it will settle at an rpm lower than 1000rpm. Something to worry about?

it does lower that initial "bark" on cold start though.

As I said before it will hold 1400 rpm till around when the coolant reaches 140 fahrenheit, then it will drop to 1300 then 1200 till the coolant reaches 176 fahrenheit, then finally at 194 fahrenheit it will drop to a normal idle of 750 rpm. You can change this if you like by editing idle speeds A-F a bit lower and one consistent RPM till 194 fahrenheit, but personally I had it set to the original way because I want my fluids to reach operating temperature that much quicker while the car is idling. This isn't necessary honestly if you like to set off and immediately drive the car and in fact doing that is much more effecient.

Also I can make it a bit quieter if you like, I forgot to edit the definition so I can change the aggressive maf tables. I might actually do that now and reupload the tune

[steve99]

Originally Posted by FRSBRZGT86FAN

As I said before it will hold 1400 rpm till around when the coolant reaches 140 fahrenheit, then it will drop to 1300 then 1200 till the coolant reaches 176 fahrenheit, then finally at 194 fahrenheit it will drop to a normal idle of 750 rpm. You can change this if you like by editing idle speeds A-F a bit lower and one consistent RPM till 194 fahrenheit, but personally I had it set to the original way because I want my fluids to reach operating temperature that much quicker while the car is idling. This isn't necessary honestly if you like to set off and immediately drive the car and in fact doing that is much more effecient.

Also I can make it a bit quieter if you like, I forgot to edit the definition so I can change the aggressive maf tables. I might actually do that now and reupload the tune

if you dont alter the maf correction tables car will idle high at startup regardless of what you put in idle tables

[FRSBRZGT86FAN]

Originally Posted by steve99

if you dont alter the maf correction tables car will idle high at startup regardless of what you put in idle tables

Yea I realized that lol, open the definition for B01c in notepad++ and added those code snippets for the tables and am fixing it now

[FRSBRZGT86FAN]

Originally Posted by mike7792

I've been finding that it takes a really long time before it will settle at an rpm lower than 1000rpm. Something to worry about?

it does lower that initial "bark" on cold start though.

Originally Posted by Kayysonie

Well I was in luck. My Cal ID is BO1C also and I am running the 91 octane UEL Stage 2.

I appreciate the help. I am still trying to learn how to tune it. What confused me the most is people said they have adjusted their tune a lot.

For example, they said instead of -4 they went aggressive and put around 10 or something like that and made it better. etc etc.

I haven't read the rest of the reply above but I will. I am just trying to do a quick reply.

Thanks.

Here's the updated one with the idle a bit lower and more uniform till operating temp and with the MAF tables added and adjusted properly the image shows what I changed as well it cold start idles at 1300 instead of 1400 but for a longer period of time then drops down as operating temp is reached, and the maf tables are changed:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByrZ6-yK0YGdZEpNMTIzcnlrNkU/view?usp=sharing

[mike7792]

Originally Posted by FRSBRZGT86FAN

Yea I realized that lol, open the definition for B01c in notepad++ and added those code snippets for the tables and am fixing it now

That'd be great if you'd be able to reupload a revised version

*edit* that was fast ! Thanks!

[FRSBRZGT86FAN]

Originally Posted by mike7792

That'd be great if you'd be able to reupload a revised version

Try it out and tell me how it does

[Kayysonie]

Originally Posted by FRSBRZGT86FAN

How are the cold starts? Have you heard the difference after the car has sat for 6-8 hours?

I actually havent uploaded the tune to my car yet as I am travelling. But I was comparing the tune to a standard Stage 2 UEL tune using Romraider just to see what was different and changed.

I get what needs to be changed for the most part and how each change affect the other.

Thanks FRSBRZGT86FAN.

I am using your tune as a guide for now. I want to try out and edit them myself and for my fellow 86'er in my area.

[FRSBRZGT86FAN]

Originally Posted by Kayysonie

I actually havent uploaded the tune to my car yet as I am travelling. But I was comparing the tune to a standard Stage 2 UEL tune using Romraider just to see what was different and changed.

I get what needs to be changed for the most part and how each change affect the other.

Thanks FRSBRZGT86FAN.

I am using your tune as a guide for now. I want to try out and edit them myself and for my fellow 86'er in my area.

No problem this is the fixed one btw for you to base everything off of:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Byr...ew?usp=sharing

Also because your definitions don't have the maf tables in by default I added them:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Byr...ew?usp=sharing

[deuncos]

Originally Posted by FRSBRZGT86FAN

You're question is a bit unusual, you simply do all those adjustments, I too had a berk muffler delete for some time so I quieted it down thanks to @steve99 and his instructions he clearly says you have to edit:

1)Timing
2)The agressive maf tables
3)Idle speed targets
4)DTC code P050B
5)Total Injection port ratio (optional depending on fuel but it doesn't hurt to do it anyway creates a much smoother idle)

Do all five and you will no longer have that booming cold start sound, the RPM level you mentioned is specifically controlled by coolant temperature and it will be quieter now at the normal 1400 rpm warm up portion. This is what you're tables should look like the -6.99 part can be -4 for you. The timing is adjusted due to the fact you no longer need to warm the catalytic converters up anymore as one of them are gone without the catalytic converter or without a muffler it is obnoxious and not worth having it.

Am I correct in assuming this wouldn't work with a UEL catted header?

[steve99]

Originally Posted by deuncos

Am I correct in assuming this wouldn't work with a UEL catted header?

those changes will quieten startup on any header stock catted catless el/uel

[deuncos]

Originally Posted by steve99

those changes will quieten startup on any header stock catted catless el/uel

So the warming of the catt's is only for emissions purposes correct?

[FRSBRZGT86FAN]

Originally Posted by deuncos

So the warming of the catt's is only for emissions purposes correct?

Pretty much, thats the reason why people do this edit anyway because after removing a cat it becomes loud and drone with UELs, ELs, or even just a muffler delete. It's actually alright to do it on a stock car as well hence was the case when I had the muffler delete.