Tein Flex Z Problems

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by lukey86

If your alignment guy needs instructions to adjust components on such a popular suspension type then you need a new guy! I've never had anyone tell me they can't do something because of a lack of instuctions, thet's just ludicrous.

Depends on the alignment person. Not everyone is a "race professional"...

New Hunter Hawkeye alignment racks have a computerized program w/ instructions on how to adjust alignment on virtually every car made. In the case of my BRZ, when I used the rack there was "no instructions" on how to adjust caster.

Some guys aren't good with communication. OP's alignment guy may be one of them.

-alex

[zussypoo]

Originally Posted by Brzerker

OP, I am having the same issue as you.

I have ran through multiple suspension setup (Taiwan stuff, koni shocks w/ springs, HKS GT, KW CS) yet whenever I get the alignment shops to do a 0 toe alignment on all fours it will still "pull" to the right and I have to tilt my steering wheel similar to your situation. I have went to multiple shops to try to see whether is it the fault of the last, however it was always doing the same no matter. Eventually I ran out of ideas and I have to manually tweak the toe to get the steering to align.

It's annoying as hell but sadly I've learned to live with it.

Coincidentally, I had the same fender bender as you at the same spot. I am not sure if that is to blame as well as I got it quite early into the ownership of this car.

The problem is I don't really have that issue anymore. The car on Tein Flex Z could not stay in lane @ 65mph on the freeway for more than 2 seconds. Now with the steering wheel supposedly dead center, it will stay for 8+ seconds.

Originally Posted by nickmerronesucks

I'm not sure if it's been covered yet. but do you have a picture of how you bolted the camber plates to the car? Engine bay view? Possible you mounted them to where they would adjust caster and not camber? IE the opposite way they are supposed to be installed

I do have pictures. I'm pretty sure it's impossible to bolt these incorrectly since there is a sticker clearly showing which direction they should be bolted to.

Originally Posted by mav1178

Depends on the alignment person. Not everyone is a "race professional"...

New Hunter Hawkeye alignment racks have a computerized program w/ instructions on how to adjust alignment on virtually every car made. In the case of my BRZ, when I used the rack there was "no instructions" on how to adjust caster.

Some guys aren't good with communication. OP's alignment guy may be one of them.

-alex

The message I got from all the alignment shops was that caster is not adjustable from the factory. They tried varying sets of toe and camber specs but with no solution to the issue.

[cdrazic93]

Im assuming youve already contacted Tein, have you heard any word from them?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by zussypoo

The problem is I don't really have that issue anymore. The car on Tein Flex Z could not stay in lane @ 65mph on the freeway for more than 2 seconds. Now with the steering wheel supposedly dead center, it will stay for 8+ seconds.

Try swapping the hardware left/right and also make sure the orientation is the same.

[zussypoo]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Try swapping the hardware left/right and also make sure the orientation is the same.

Wouldn't it just cause the alignment specs(at least caster) to just interchange? I really don't have the time to do these kind of testing as it seems to be Tein's job to make sure that the product isn't faulty.

[cjd]

Originally Posted by zussypoo

Wouldn't it just cause the alignment specs(at least caster) to just interchange? I really don't have the time to do these kind of testing as it seems to be Tein's job to make sure that the product isn't faulty.

Yes, if the Tein is faulty. This should help demonstrate it's not the frame or the fault of the accident. Or that it is not the Teins after all, or at least not the camber plates

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by zussypoo

Wouldn't it just cause the alignment specs(at least caster) to just interchange? I really don't have the time to do these kind of testing as it seems to be Tein's job to make sure that the product isn't faulty.

If one is correct and one is off then yes, they would likely flip. If they're both just out of spec, or maybe the stickers were put on the wrong plates, you may split the difference and end up with equal caster left/right. Could make it worse.



Sucks you're in this position but such is life when customizing.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by zussypoo

Wouldn't it just cause the alignment specs(at least caster) to just interchange? I really don't have the time to do these kind of testing as it seems to be Tein's job to make sure that the product isn't faulty.

If the orientation is not the same on the hardware, then it would be an installation error. If the hardware swap with the same orientation l/r doesnt change the numbers, then something is wrong.

Are you paying professionals to perform your installation or DIYing? Were all provided spacers and washers used? Are all bolts facing the same direction? Is the height and preload set the same in both corners? Is everything being tightened by hand or by impact?

If the dampers were faulty, you'd have much bigger issues than "the car pulling". You'd notice it immediately in your ride height, hear squeaks, or have a damper puking oil.

[zussypoo]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

If the orientation is not the same on the hardware, then it would be an installation error. If the hardware swap with the same orientation l/r doesnt change the numbers, then something is wrong.

Are you paying professionals to perform your installation or DIYing? Were all provided spacers and washers used? Are all bolts facing the same direction? Is the height and preload set the same in both corners? Is everything being tightened by hand or by impact?

If the dampers were faulty, you'd have much bigger issues than "the car pulling". You'd notice it immediately in your ride height, hear squeaks, or have a damper puking oil.

Installing was done with a friend. All hardware were used and bolts facing the same direction. Preload wasn't touched out of box but was verified to be equal between l/r sides. Height adjustment was not done by adjusting the preload but by the piece below it I believe? Ride height was also measured on an even surface to be equal between l/r. I took the car to 2 independent shops, then 2 dealerships, then more shops and friends but nobody can attribute the pulling to the right as problems from the accident nor find anything wrong with the installation of the coilovers. A friend who took off the coilovers for me suggested that it could be the cross member damaged causing the car not driving straight, but we wanted to eliminate the Teins as a factor contributing to this problem, and it seems that the problem was gone after taking the Teins off.

[cjd]

Originally Posted by zussypoo

Installing was done with a friend. All hardware were used and bolts facing the same direction. Preload wasn't touched out of box but was verified to be equal between l/r sides. Height adjustment was not done by adjusting the preload but by the piece below it I believe? Ride height was also measured on an even surface to be equal between l/r. I took the car to 2 independent shops, then 2 dealerships, then more shops and friends but nobody can attribute the pulling to the right as problems from the accident nor find anything wrong with the installation of the coilovers. A friend who took off the coilovers for me suggested that it could be the cross member damaged causing the car not driving straight, but we wanted to eliminate the Teins as a factor contributing to this problem, and it seems that the problem was gone after taking the Teins off.

Was the hardware you put back on the car for the accident?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by zussypoo

Installing was done with a friend. All hardware were used and bolts facing the same direction. Preload wasn't touched out of box but was verified to be equal between l/r sides. Height adjustment was not done by adjusting the preload but by the piece below it I believe? Ride height was also measured on an even surface to be equal between l/r. I took the car to 2 independent shops, then 2 dealerships, then more shops and friends but nobody can attribute the pulling to the right as problems from the accident nor find anything wrong with the installation of the coilovers. A friend who took off the coilovers for me suggested that it could be the cross member damaged causing the car not driving straight, but we wanted to eliminate the Teins as a factor contributing to this problem, and it seems that the problem was gone after taking the Teins off.

The next diagnostic step I have for you is to put on ANY other coilover or damper setup that has a spherical top.

You may have some frame/chassis damage that the stock rubber mounts are absorbing, but spherical bearings will not.

[zussypoo]

Originally Posted by cjd

Was the hardware you put back on the car for the accident?

The bolts connecting the top plates I cannot be certain if they were replaced, because I don't have the information for that. The knuckle was found to be damaged later on after the first alignment with the Teins on, but replacing the knuckle did not affect the alignment specs nor the way the car drove with the Teins on. I did order 2 new bolts at the knuckle because I couldn't remember if the shop replaced those bolts, and that changed nothing. Everything was checked and re-tightened multiple times.

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

The next diagnostic step I have for you is to put on ANY other coilover or damper setup that has a spherical top.

You may have some frame/chassis damage that the stock rubber mounts are absorbing, but spherical bearings will not.

Is Buddy Club Racing Spec coilovers one of those options? I had those on prior to putting on the Teins and the vehicle was fine.

[cjd]

Originally Posted by zussypoo

The bolts connecting the top plates I cannot be certain if they were replaced, because I don't have the information for that. The knuckle was found to be damaged later on after the first alignment with the Teins on, but replacing the knuckle did not affect the alignment specs nor the way the car drove with the Teins on. I did order 2 new bolts at the knuckle because I couldn't remember if the shop replaced those bolts, and that changed nothing. Everything was checked and re-tightened multiple times.

I meant the struts - just trying to help isolate the problem, no judgement whatsoever. It wasn't clear to me when you uninstalled the Teins exactly what you put back on the car that works properly now. This has got to be super frustrating, but hopefully you'll get through and be happy with things in the end.

[zussypoo]

Originally Posted by cjd

I meant the struts - just trying to help isolate the problem, no judgement whatsoever. It wasn't clear to me when you uninstalled the Teins exactly what you put back on the car that works properly now. This has got to be super frustrating, but hopefully you'll get through and be happy with things in the end.

Ah. That was actually my misunderstanding. The passenger front strut was replaced. I am not ruling out that the car could still be damaged, even though none of the shops nor the insurance company can see the frame being damaged. The message I got from the insurance company was that "most vehicles assessed with frame damage had much more severe impact", and this is treated as an employee loss, so I don't see them skimping on repairs and that their assessment was reasonable.

It's just frustrating that Tein's immediate response was that it is not their issue, and it is because my car was involved in an accident. Although it would be comparing apples to oranges, if I got a leaky brand new tire from the local Discount Tire, I'm pretty sure that is not because my car was involved in an accident.