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Old 03-22-2016, 12:44 PM   #15
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I bought these at the same time, but installed them earlier (January). I'm still not posting a review (not until after RA and at least one autox event); but if I had to review now, my experience does not match. If I had to do it over again I'd have spent more to get something better; but then again, I'm not ready to review these yet.

I just don't think they can be rated on quality after 90 days.
Comfort is a 6/10 at best.
Performance is actually good however; and I'd give the same score to DSG/FA for communication and support.
Value can't be stated until quality can be stated.

just my 2 cents; look for my review around the six month mark.
My idea of comfort is a firm controlled ride and you have to remember these are 7k/8k spring rates, thats a huge increase over stock so they are going to be way stiffer. You cant buy something like these and expect stock ride comfort haha!! What makes you think they are uncomfortable? have you played with dampening that makes a big difference

edit: and thanks for sharing your experience! I am all about honest reviews
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Old 03-22-2016, 12:48 PM   #16
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My idea of comfort is a firm controlled ride and you have to remember these are 7k/8k spring rates, thats a huge increase over stock so they are going to be way stiffer. You cant buy something like these and expect stock ride comfort haha!! What makes you think they are uncomfortable? have you played with dampening that makes a big difference

edit: and thanks for sharing your experience! I am all about honest reviews
I was also unimpressed with mine though. Very bumpy no matter what.
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Old 03-22-2016, 01:06 PM   #17
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My scale is on 1-10 for an entry level coilover and for what they are I am absolutely blown away with them at the price point. I would buy these again in a heart beat.
Thanks for the reply @go_a_way1. Another reason I have not purchased coilovers, lowering springs, etc. is that I am VERY pleased with the factory ride. I'd love the in between road and track setup. However, there will always be compromises.

Edit: In terms of price point.
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Old 03-22-2016, 01:13 PM   #18
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Thanks for the reply @go_a_way1. Another reason I have not purchased coilovers, lowering springs, etc. is that I am VERY pleased with the factory ride. I'd love the in between road and track setup. However, there will always be compromises.

Edit: In terms of price point.
Yeah these are stiff enough that if you hit a good bump at good speed your butt will lift off the seat. I have had this happen to me once already hahahaha!! If you are looking for a stock like ride these are not for you. They are much more firm but well mannered so they dont feel harsh. Your best bet would be to spend big $$$ or just stick to RCE yellows and bilstiens if you want a factory like ride that will preform well.
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Old 03-22-2016, 01:14 PM   #19
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My idea of comfort is a firm controlled ride and you have to remember these are 7k/8k spring rates, thats a huge increase over stock so they are going to be way stiffer. You cant buy something like these and expect stock ride comfort haha!! What makes you think they are uncomfortable? have you played with dampening that makes a big difference

edit: and thanks for sharing your experience! I am all about honest reviews
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I was also unimpressed with mine though. Very bumpy no matter what.

I have not been able to get the ride 'controlled'. While i'm able to make it stiff (but more random), or soft (and very bouncy); they aren't balanced. When I get another warm spell and more time with them; this may change.

I'm fine with the soft and bouncy, the the stiff side is currently unacceptable. It just seems to leave them randomly bouncy. After two weeks, I redid the rear pre-load and it has been better.

Again, for me, it's that the jury is still out on these.
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Old 03-22-2016, 01:29 PM   #20
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I have not been able to get the ride 'controlled'. While i'm able to make it stiff (but more random), or soft (and very bouncy); they aren't balanced. When I get another warm spell and more time with them; this may change.

I'm fine with the soft and bouncy, the the stiff side is currently unacceptable. It just seems to leave them randomly bouncy. After two weeks, I redid the rear pre-load and it has been better.

Again, for me, it's that the jury is still out on these.
Try 12 clicks all around. Thats what I found is good so far. I haven't gone any higher. I find when it was on 5 clicks it was less comfortable over large bumps and crashsy but when its firmer the springs are better controlled and large bumps such as train tracks are much more manageable
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Old 03-22-2016, 01:34 PM   #21
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I have also come to accept that I don't track as much as I think I do. In my head I'm this trackster guy that's out there racing the world. Reality is that I only go a few times a year. In my case, I'd probably be better off with some RCE's Koni struts, alignment and possibly swaybars for fine tuning. I think that would give me the best setup for like 90% street:10% track compromise at a relatively good price point.

Edit: Wrote this before I read your reply. Seems like we are on the same page @go_a_way1
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Old 03-22-2016, 01:34 PM   #22
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Quote:
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Yeah these are stiff enough that if you hit a good bump at good speed your butt will lift off the seat. I have had this happen to me once already hahahaha!! If you are looking for a stock like ride these are not for you. They are much more firm but well mannered so they dont feel harsh. Your best bet would be to spend big $$$ or just stick to RCE yellows and bilstiens if you want a factory like ride that will preform well.
That's not just a function of spring rate... I'm on much higher spring rates and rarely even send the tool box in the trunk flying in this manner... It's happened, but it was a really bad bump - speed bump size (and preferable to being crunched by the idiot in the car next to me.)

Also a different price point.
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Old 03-22-2016, 01:37 PM   #23
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That's not just a function of spring rate... I'm on much higher spring rates and rarely even send the tool box in the trunk flying in this manner... It's happened, but it was a really bad bump - speed bump size (and preferable to being crunched by the idiot in the car next to me.)

Also a different price point.
hahaha I was going about 130kph and hit a nice sized dip in the road, thats how I got my butt to lift off. Could have been avoided but I was testing in the name of science

Edit: Also I am sure price point does make a big difference but thats above what I need for my car haha!
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Old 03-22-2016, 10:33 PM   #24
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May i ask of ur alignment settings? I cant get -3 in front for camber with mines
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Old 03-22-2016, 10:51 PM   #25
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May i ask of ur alignment settings? I cant get -3 in front for camber with mines
I just had my alignment done, front is -2.5 and back is -2.0 (sigh, no LCAs). I went with 0 toe for now.
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Old 03-22-2016, 10:52 PM   #26
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May i ask of ur alignment settings? I cant get -3 in front for camber with mines
Before you adjust camber, set the top hats to as positive as they go, then get as much camber with you can with adjusting the mount (camber bolts if you have them). After that -3 should be easy.
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Old 03-22-2016, 11:42 PM   #27
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Before you adjust camber, set the top hats to as positive as they go, then get as much camber with you can with adjusting the mount (camber bolts if you have them). After that -3 should be easy.
I dont think setting them all the way positive first is going to change anything as they only have so much play in the mounting points. But i did camber it as much as i could before i torqued the nuts. Thanks tho. How far are u away from being maxed out on ur top hats?
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Old 03-23-2016, 12:51 AM   #28
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I dont think setting them all the way positive first is going to change anything as they only have so much play in the mounting points. But i did camber it as much as i could before i torqued the nuts. Thanks tho. How far are u away from being maxed out on ur top hats?
Hadn't popped the hood since the alignment, went and checked, not enough to go to -3; I'd have to add camber bolts.
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