Loads of issues, time to fix...

[TruRace]

Some of your issues sound a lot like mine. Love the care but hate all the quality issues.

I switched over to e85 and that put an end to the chirping.

I tried damn near everything with the rear deck. Went through the TSB about pipping the spot welds and greasing up the deck, that helped a little. What really solved the problem was getting rid of the 3rd brake like. There are a couple options for that. But you might get lucky spraying some grease back there.

I've got sound deadening material all over my door and switches and still have rattles. I'm going to take another swing at it some day.

Swapping fluids helped with the notchy shifter a little. I'm using motul now but am going to try Amsoil soon. I live in Florida though so it doesn't get that cold.

[Apex_BRZ]

DI Fuel Pump Chirping - Seriously?!?this is not a fixable issue, unless you'd like to replace it the same noise will appear unless you say try adding 2 stroke oil to the gas, or finding ethanol free fuel, also some people found the chirping doesn't appear with an oil cooler The below issues could possibly be fixed all at once at a shop that does transmission work:

I wasn't asking for help on this, I was just listing it with the things that was wrong. If you'd read the thread, you'd see I already knew what it was and have no intentions of doing anything with it. Because, like you said, you can't. And also, the chirping DOES happen with an oil cooler. I have a Jackson Racing oil cooler setup with the a Setrab unit.

Drivetrain Slop/Clunk Every Time Going From Rev/For[/I]
Rattling Shifter Reverse Lockout at Mid/High RPM
Rattling Throwout Bearing[I]

If the sound goes away when you push the clutch pedal, it is your clutch.
If the sound happens when you push the pedal, it is your throwout bearing.Throw out bearing noise is relatively common on these cars at one point peoples flywheel bolts just needed to be torqued down.

The TO bearing is the issue, I've already diagnosed it. I'm pretty good mechanically and am familiar with clutch/TO bearing assemblies after tearing apart the drivetrain in my ZO6 last year to put in a new pilot bearing, (the bearing totally disintegrated) slave cylinder, and McLeod RXT clutch assembly. This is the same as before, just listing it. I'm going to wait until it goes, for better or worse...and hope it doesn't take anything else with it!

Notchy Shifer In Cold Weather (2nd gear unusable until it warms up)
This one can easily be fixed with a fluid swap, getting something like motul or pentosin will get rid of the notchiness

Well, no...again if you'd read the thread you'd see I'm already using Motul 300 and tried Amsoil before that, and put new fluid in regularly due to track use. I haven't tried Pentosin yet, but until I do more research...I'm not changing it again. I haven't seen any evidence yet that ANYTHING will actually fix this. I'd love more detailed info on Pentosin if you have any.

[Apex_BRZ]

I switched over to e85 and that put an end to the chirping.

I will absolutely not be doing that.

I tried damn near everything with the rear deck. Went through the TSB about pipping the spot welds and greasing up the deck, that helped a little. What really solved the problem was getting rid of the 3rd brake like. There are a couple options for that. But you might get lucky spraying some grease back there.

Well, that's a bit of a bummer. I read the TSB and thought it was the biggest joke in the world. Really? Spray grease in there? Didn't seem like it would be very effective. I bent the alignment tab over used on the door transmitter, but of course that did nothing. I'd prefer not to modify anything from OEM, so removing the 3rd brake light assembly doesn't sound very appealing.

I've got sound deadening material all over my door and switches and still have rattles. I'm going to take another swing at it some day.

Also a bummer!

Swapping fluids helped with the notchy shifter a little. I'm using motul now but am going to try Amsoil soon. I live in Florida though so it doesn't get that cold.

Swapping fluids hasn't worked for me. I'm on Motul now, but tried Amsoil before that. Once it gets around 60, it gets awful until the car completely warms up. When the weather is frigid in the dead of winter, it started scratching gears.

[radroach]

For these: Rattling Throwout Bearing, Drivetrain Slop/Clunk Every Time Going From Rev/For, Notchy Shifer In Cold Weather (2nd gear unusable until it warms up)

Get a new throwout bearing or/and clutch assembly installed and change the trans fluid.

[radroach]

Sorry apex I know you just replied to all the same things I just said.

Your transmission issues might all stem from the TOB issue. On my old clutch assembly, when cold, it would seem to drag and cause a small grind in 2nd and 3rd unless I shifted perfectly. After changing the assembly and getting everything re-greased, things work much more smoothly when cold.

The transmission will still seem balky after cold starts under 40*F, I think that's just the nature of this gearbox. It works fine for me as long as I'm taking a good warmup procedure (I literally shift out of 1st at 4000 rpms first thing in the morning, uphill), shifting like the car wants to be shifted then I have no problems.

[Apex_BRZ]

Originally Posted by radroach

Sorry apex I know you just replied to all the same things I just said.

If you live in Iowa then your temperatures are going to be affecting your transmission. It's just the way things are going to operate, I don't think anybody in any cold start below 40*F is going to have a buttery smooth shift until warmed up. Though changing the throwout bearing and getting the assembly re-greased really helps. On my old clutch assembly mine was dragging at low temps and making me grind 2nd and 3rd. After change, much better.

I've lived here all my life, this is the first car that has EVER had this issue. I wouldn't bring it up if it was something so simple as can be blamed on "Iowa's cold weather". It's just a bit of common sense, which I understand a lot of people seem to lack these days. I expect a bit of sluggishness/resistance as usual when things are super cold.

However, I don't expect to nearly be locked out of a gear, grind gears, super notchy/clunky, etc. Those aren't normal issues, regardless of temp.

I've suspected the TO bearing could be having some affect on it, but I haven't been able to prove it. I'd prefer not to tear it apart and replace it, just to have it do the same thing.

[N1rve]

Originally Posted by Apex_BRZ

I had hoped to trade this car in this year, but have decided to stick with it a bit longer. While I love the car on the track, this thing is just downright annoying to drive every day and the build quality is pure garbage. But...fixing a few of these things would at least eliminate some of the annoyances.

Here are the things currently going on with the car, many of them common in the 86 cars.

Rattling/Creaking Rear Deck
Buzzing Passenger Side Door/Window Switch
Rattling Throwout Bearing
Drivetrain Slop/Clunk Every Time Going From Rev/For
DI Fuel Pump Chirping
Rattling Shifter Reverse Lockout at Mid/High RPM
Notchy Shifer In Cold Weather (2nd gear unusable until it warms up)
Rattling Door Speaker (could be same issue as Buzzing door/switch)

So...that's the list. I've scoured the forum for fixes and think I can at least eliminate the rattling junk. I've bought some white lithium grease spray to use on the rear deck plates per the TSB. Going to spray the easy trunk part tonight and hope I don't have to tear apart the rear deck this weekend. I simply can't stand this rattle any more! I'll also grease the seat latches just in case.

I'm curious what you guys are doing to try and determine what exactly is buzzing in the door panels? I see a lot of results had to do with the window switch. I stuffed a business card in there (jammed it in) and it was still buzzing. Sounded like it maybe muted it a bit? But it was still there. Any suggestions on this issue before I tear apart the panel and the switch assembly?

Drivetrain slop. Every time I put the car in reverse to back out of a parking spot or my driveway...clunk. Has anyone done anything to get rid of this? I have a Perrin shifter bushing and trans bushing, but never installed them. Wasn't really looking forward to more NVH considering all the noises already going on with stock everything. Any thoughts on something I could do to eliminate the play and get rid of this clunking?

What's the best method to fix the buzzing reverse lockout assembly on the shifter beyond replacing it with an aftermarket unit? I saw people wrapping it in teflon tape, and I may do that. Unless there is a better (less ghetto) way?

The other issues I'm telling myself I just have to live with. The gearbox in this car is junk, as I've tried OEM, Amsoil, and Motul 300 fluids and everything in weather below 65 and a cold start is abysmal. It's notchy, and 2nd gear is near unuseable unless I want to jam it in. It's even grinding 2nd a portion of the time. I'd rather not take it to the dealer, so unless the DI Fuel Pump actually causes a PROBLEM...I'm ignoring that noise. Throwout bearing started making noise at 30k miles, I'm at 45k miles now and will continue to ignore this also. I highly doubt it could be covered under warranty.

Done venting. Would appreciate any advice on anything in the list. Thanks!

Rattling/Creaking Rear Deck
You can fix this by having foam inserted into the rear deck through the trunk.
Buzzing Passenger Side Door/Window Switch
Add some sound insulation to the window switches. Do it for the driver side too or else you'll notice the driverside window switch rattling
Rattling Throwout Bearing
Drivetrain Slop/Clunk Every Time Going From Rev/For
DI Fuel Pump Chirping
Rattling Shifter Reverse Lockout at Mid/High RPM
Notchy Shifer In Cold Weather (2nd gear unusable until it warms up)
Rattling Door Speaker (could be same issue as Buzzing door/switch)
This could be the actual metal door, the window switches, or the actual plastic inner door panel. Try the switches first. Alternative fix is to stuff a towel into the cup holder.

[radroach]

@Apex_BRZ

Consider that this transmission has a few features that maybe your previous cars didn't have. The beefy triple-coned syncros for instance- they help make shifting much easier at high RPM, but at low RPM, and cold, are quite chunky feeling. A Toyota engineer explained that to make the gearbox have great shifts in high RPM, it might sacrifice the shifting feel at low rpm.

[cjd]

No help from me on the rattles, unless you happen to be suffering from a shoulder-strap snap rattle, which is the only one I've had to deal with (and is an easy fix once you figure out what it is!)

Cold weather shifting - Holding speed in 1st for a couple seconds before shifting to 2nd seems to make it work quite nicely for me in the lovely Chicago winters... once warmed up my transmission is smooth (though 'notchy' still applies if you prefer a transmission with more slop / lower tolerances.. I think it can be easier to work, or more precise, but not both - at least at this price!) At any rate, it seems the cold simply makes the synchros a little slow to keep up, giving them a bit of extra time helps.

Chirping is just how it is. Doesn't seem to be a problem, just vaguely annoying. I no longer notice it most days. Slightly louder exhaust may be part of that, raising the overall noise level... I've had it go away for a while, too. Perhaps from 0%e gas, but it was quiet other times and I'm pretty sure it was juiced gas.

Drivetrain slop - I only notice a clunk if I'm at a stop, put the clutch in and immediately put the car in gear (while the engine is running.) If I again wait a few seconds, no clunk. I just have to remember to put the clutch in when the cross-traffic light goes yellow... that's about the only place the pause matters, and that's if I'm worried about avoiding the clunk. Not sure if this is similar / the same as you're describing or not.

[Apex_BRZ]

Originally Posted by radroach

@Apex_BRZ

Consider that this transmission has a few features that maybe your previous cars didn't have. The beefy triple-coned syncros for instance- they help make shifting much easier at high RPM, but at low RPM, and cold, are quite chunky feeling. A Toyota engineer explained that to make the gearbox have great shifts in high RPM, it might sacrifice the shifting feel at low rpm.

Definitely not trying to argue with you, but it just seems odd for that to be the case. The Toyota engineer is claiming it's OK for it to grind gears and not let you into another?

My C5 ZO6 is still on the OEM transmission at 55k miles and more abuse than this BRZ has ever seen. It has nearly 800hp, a built/forged motor, and I shift at 7,000rpm. The OEM trans is butter smooth, no matter what I do or what the temperature of the car or outside. If that trans can still shift smooth at more RPM than OEM, at over twice the power and torque, and after repeated dragstrip and 1/2 Mile passes, autocrossing, and road racing (hell, it's still running the original OEM fluid), surely the little BRZ trans could with a design that 14 years newer, 200hp, still totally stock drivetrain/power, and never abused. Just seems like crazy talk, and justifying the problems (like what die-hard subaru fans do...saying it's ok to have lots of quality problems BECAUSE SUBARU!). It makes no sense. There's no logic to it.

[Apex_BRZ]

Rattling/Creaking Rear Deck
You can fix this by having foam inserted into the rear deck through the trunk.
Buzzing Passenger Side Door/Window Switch
Add some sound insulation to the window switches. Do it for the driver side too or else you'll notice the driverside window switch rattling

I totally forgot about this, thanks! I'll stuff foam in there over the weekend if I can find a decent "block" of it. Where did you guys get the foam? I just got done spraying grease into the welds in the trunk area. Will add foam if it keeps creaking, and then I'll tear apart the rear deck if it still makes noise after that.

Rattling Door Speaker (could be same issue as Buzzing door/switch)
This could be the actual metal door, the window switches, or the actual plastic inner door panel. Try the switches first. Alternative fix is to stuff a towel into the cup holder.

Also forgot about stuffing a towel in there. I'll jam something in there tonight and test it on the way to work. If it stops, well at least I know it can be solved when I tear apart the door and switch assembly.

[Apex_BRZ]

Originally Posted by cjd

Cold weather shifting - Holding speed in 1st for a couple seconds before shifting to 2nd seems to make it work quite nicely for me in the lovely Chicago winters... once warmed up my transmission is smooth (though 'notchy' still applies if you prefer a transmission with more slop / lower tolerances.. I think it can be easier to work, or more precise, but not both - at least at this price!) At any rate, it seems the cold simply makes the synchros a little slow to keep up, giving them a bit of extra time helps.

That's what I've been doing. Well...I have to when it's in the dead of winter. Now that it's warming up, the problem is really getting to me. It's 60F outside and I keep thinking it feels ok and go to shift into 2nd and it grinds or kind of clunks its way in. Disconcerting, to say the least.

Chirping is just how it is. Doesn't seem to be a problem, just vaguely annoying. I no longer notice it most days. Slightly louder exhaust may be part of that, raising the overall noise level... I've had it go away for a while, too. Perhaps from 0%e gas, but it was quiet other times and I'm pretty sure it was juiced gas.

Mine as gone away occasionally too. I'm not really concerned about this, just added it to the list. The only time it really bugs me any more is when I'm in a drive-through somewhere. The sound is really loud there as it echoes off the roof/covering.

Drivetrain slop - I only notice a clunk if I'm at a stop, put the clutch in and immediately put the car in gear (while the engine is running.) If I again wait a few seconds, no clunk. I just have to remember to put the clutch in when the cross-traffic light goes yellow... that's about the only place the pause matters, and that's if I'm worried about avoiding the clunk. Not sure if this is similar / the same as you're describing or not.

Not the same thing, I think. Mine is more like lash. It only happens, for example, when I go to back out of my garage or a parking space. I put it in reverse, then as soon as I give it gas/clutch to roll back, it clunks. It's a big clunk, I can feel it in the pedal and seat through the chassis. I can live with this also, as I'm sure there is no damage being done. It's just one of those things that I was thinking..."Hey, I have this issue...wonder if anyone else is seeing it and if they did something to fix it (IE: Bushings)".

[roddy]

Here is some more info on the Pentosin with some track usage in a supercharged twin. I don't track my car...it is a daily driver, so I can't speak on track usage myself. The only thing that has come close for me is a blend of Redline MT-90 and MTL. You may have good luck with Redline MT-85.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45452

[Ashikabi]

Did not red the whole thread. Have you checked your door speakers for the buzzing? One could be blown.

Clunk from between reverse/first... probably drive shaft slop. Get a one piece shaft(drive shaft shop). Makes it feel so much nicer(unless it's your shifter clunking, then I can't help).

Rear deck isn't that bad to pull out fyi.

Chirping can't be fixed. Some people add 2 stroke oil or use different gas with no ethanol with limited success.

Hope this helps