TC + CEL light on high rpm deceleration

[Beastronix]

@Agent_D Your issue sounds like it could be a faulty skid control module. The suggestion of performing the Pedal Dance is what I would test next. If it is the skid control module and you're able to actually get into Pedal Dance mode, I bet the problem clears.

The factory buttons aren't actually disabling anything. They let you play a little more but the data from all sensors is still being read and processed by the ECU. If the skid control module is in standby (Pedal Dance), the data from the sensors should have no effect.

Pedal Dance will be a good test to rule out the SCM. Good luck!

[Agent_D]

I've successfully done pedal dance, but haven't tested the cel problem during that mode. I'll try that today, and see what happens. Thank you!

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[Agent_D]

Just got back into the car. Pedal dance activated; issue still persists. CEL on deceleration with the traction control/stability control light coming on for a second, and tripping the map sensor low input signal code.

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[Beastronix]

Originally Posted by Agent_D

Just got back into the car. Pedal dance activated; issue still persists. CEL on deceleration with the traction control/stability control light coming on for a second, and tripping the map sensor low input signal code.

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Very strange... even more so since it's throwing a map sensor code. You might have a electrical mess in hand. Tried pulling the ABS fuse yet and testing?

[Agent_D]

I haven't. I'll do that today. Having never owned a car with ABS before (but being fairly mechanically inclined); I'm assuming that the ABS pump gets a signal from some sensors on the wheels (speed sensors?), and may have some bearing in the issue? I've looked at all the electrical wires I could in the engine bay. Where do the wires inside the car run from? Thanks again for your replies, and input (just noticed the user name also; will be getting an 86nanny soon)

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[Beastronix]

Originally Posted by Agent_D

I haven't. I'll do that today. Having never owned a car with ABS before (but being fairly mechanically inclined); I'm assuming that the ABS pump gets a signal from some sensors on the wheels (speed sensors?), and may have some bearing in the issue? I've looked at all the electrical wires I could in the engine bay. Where do the wires inside the car run from? Thanks again for your replies, and input (just noticed the user name also; will be getting an 86nanny soon)

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Correct. ABS pump does use signal from wheel speed sensors. I haven't dealt with much of the wiring myself since I attack things from the network side, but I do keep this link handy just in case which sounds like you might need if you have to pursue this incredibly FUN issue further: http://www.ft86club.com/files/BRZwiringi.pdf

[Agent_D]

Took a video a bit ago of the issue happening. This was with pedal dance done.

[steve99]

Its possible you may have the cam sensor issue for some strange reason this can cause Traction Slip light to activate even though it appears totally unrelated


http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15577


http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16473

[Agent_D]

Tested again today. This time ABS fuse was removed, pedal dance activated. I notice the CEL occurs 90-95% of the time on decel when it reaches exactly 4500rpm on the decel.

Other side notes. There is no loss of power, or any other side effects when this occurs to the car. The car, since I got it, has always idled at 900rpm. One thing I have noted; sometimes the car does have loss of power for seemingly no reason, and at times, has more power than I feel it should for seemingly no reason. There have been a few occasions where I've had the traction control light come on in first gear to keep the wheels from breaking traction in the 6000-7000rpm range. I feel like the times I've noticed the power loss issue, are when I've been on the highway for an hour or so, had the decel CEL issue (passing a car, or just going fast on an open road) and reset the code with torque to use cruise control again.

I will likely be going to a Subaru dealer in the next few weeks to have them flash the ECU, and check out the possibility of the cam issue (closest Subaru dealer to me is a 3 hour drive away). Also going to order a nameless cylinder head cover/oil leak kit, as the car has used a bit of oil in the last two weeks. The motor has almost 13k miles on it (11k when I got it a month ago), and I've swapped out some of the cheap/wrong crap the previous owner did to the car. Have a Perrin inlet tube (stock air tube was kind of screwy), Radium PCV catch can with new PCV (had a cheapy ebay catch can with improper hoses that were completely collapsed), changed oil to Amsoil 0w20, Amsoil transmission fluid, motul gear 300 diff fluid, and removed a few things he did to the car that were prepping it for boost (or he was just a kid who was putting stuff on to make it look like it was going to be boosted?). Though, the car seems to run well all around, except this small annoyance.

http://imgur.com/5FVMJi1

[Bonburner]

or just get the read out for the cel ....
no really just read the cel

[steve99]

Originally Posted by Agent_D

Tested again today. This time ABS fuse was removed, pedal dance activated. I notice the CEL occurs 90-95% of the time on decel when it reaches exactly 4500rpm on the decel.

Other side notes. There is no loss of power, or any other side effects when this occurs to the car. The car, since I got it, has always idled at 900rpm. One thing I have noted; sometimes the car does have loss of power for seemingly no reason, and at times, has more power than I feel it should for seemingly no reason. There have been a few occasions where I've had the traction control light come on in first gear to keep the wheels from breaking traction in the 6000-7000rpm range. I feel like the times I've noticed the power loss issue, are when I've been on the highway for an hour or so, had the decel CEL issue (passing a car, or just going fast on an open road) and reset the code with torque to use cruise control again.

I will likely be going to a Subaru dealer in the next few weeks to have them flash the ECU, and check out the possibility of the cam issue (closest Subaru dealer to me is a 3 hour drive away). Also going to order a nameless cylinder head cover/oil leak kit, as the car has used a bit of oil in the last two weeks. The motor has almost 13k miles on it (11k when I got it a month ago), and I've swapped out some of the cheap/wrong crap the previous owner did to the car. Have a Perrin inlet tube (stock air tube was kind of screwy), Radium PCV catch can with new PCV (had a cheapy ebay catch can with improper hoses that were completely collapsed), changed oil to Amsoil 0w20, Amsoil transmission fluid, motul gear 300 diff fluid, and removed a few things he did to the car that were prepping it for boost (or he was just a kid who was putting stuff on to make it look like it was going to be boosted?). Though, the car seems to run well all around, except this small annoyance.

http://imgur.com/5FVMJi1

Arrrrhhhh pertinent info car has been modded ie catch can inlet hose pcv all could be source of intake leak.

Stock tune should idle at 650 rpm at operating temp , it may idle faster when cold or during warmup.

if its idling at 900 when warm it either got a tune in ecu or some other issue possibky related to mods. Be carefull blaming this problem on dealer as it may be mods or tune.

Is the exhaust header stock
are wheels and tyres stock or at least same rolling diameter front\rear ie not a staggered setup this can upset traction\stability software

[Agent_D]

Speculated earlier in the thread that it is likely it probably had a tune at some point, and may not have been reflashed before the previous owner sold it. Exhaust is all stock parts; wheels are stock as well. I notice at WOT, torque reads the AFR as 11.9; that seems incredibly rich for a stock ecu map, but I haven't looked at the stock brz maps yet either.

Bonburner, thanks for the extremely helpful input.

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[Bonburner]

you're welcome

on a side note: I used to get a CEL and the cruise control turned yellow and i think TC light went on for a bit too .. i can't remember the symptoms list anymore
I swapped out the battery and im not gettin the CEL for ignition coils anymore
- not that this is what you're describing but since its voltage related .. maybe

[steve99]

Originally Posted by Agent_D

Speculated earlier in the thread that it is likely it probably had a tune at some point, and may not have been reflashed before the previous owner sold it. Exhaust is all stock parts; wheels are stock as well. I notice at WOT, torque reads the AFR as 11.9; that seems incredibly rich for a stock ecu map, but I haven't looked at the stock brz maps yet either.

Bonburner, thanks for the extremely helpful input.

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Actually if its running AFR of 11.9 at WOT high rpm it almost definitely has tune. The stock maps run way richer down in the high 10 AFR, but the stock 02 sensor wont read that rich with stock scaling limited to about 11.3