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| Mechanical Maintenance (Oil, Fluids, Break-In, Servicing) Everything related to the mechanical maintenance of the FR-S and BRZ |
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#253 |
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I changed mine with the Motul 300 stuff and didn't notice a huge difference to be honest. Maybe a bit more feedback going from gate to gate. It was routine track maintenance though, so regardless of feel, I'm happy for the additional protection/better oil.
My transmission drain plug was actually pretty clean when I drained it. Surprising because I had moderate initial grind going into 2nd when new (went away over time), and still have occasional grinds going into 3rd/5th. Expected to see more metal shavings.
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#254 |
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Hmm, I changed my transmission fluid last Thursday night. When I went for a drive Thursday night and Friday morning, the shifts were super slick and nice. Friday afternoon, the shifts felt a bit more like with the OEM fluid? I'd say the shifts feel better than the OEM fluid now, but not as nice as those first two drives. Sometimes the shifs are pretty smooth, other times they're a bit notchy, clicky. Very odd. I guess I'll crawl back under there and triple check the fluid level. Otherwise, I wonder if I should drain out that new fluid and hope it helps flush out any remnants of the OEM fluid and start again with more $20 a bottle Motul?
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#255 |
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#256 |
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So I did the trans. and Rear Diff and it is very very smooth. I have a Quick shift and it was notchy,but not terribly, after swapping in the MOTUL it is a total difference. Now I have 1535 miles on the car and since it is very smooth just after I put it in I will see how it feels in the next 1535. Good recommendations to swap the oils out. I got 4 quarts from CARiD for $75
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#257 |
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I ended up switching to Redline. In the morning when the cars cold, its doesnt like to shift. Once its warmed up its silky smooth. Did diff fluid too.
I dont think you can go wrong with Motul, Redline, or OE, just change your fluid! |
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#258 | |
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Quote:
Price drop on the MOTUL. CARiD has it for $15.33/ltr. 4 liters + shipping was only $70. Best I've seen. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to mhughett For This Useful Post: | stevesnj (08-14-2015) |
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#259 |
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Just a HUGE public service announcement from my personal experience for any DIYers...
Whatever fluid you decide to choose, fill it with 2.2L exact. Dont bother with the "fill until it overfills" method as it is much harder to get a car absolutely level in a garage with jack stands. I changed out the fluid 3 times from redline to amsoil to now motul and was never content with the shifting at all. Crunchy or catchy shifts even when warm and had to consciously shift to avoid this. It really made the car painful to drive. If you ever feel like the new fluid doesn't perform to expectations, try to ensure the exact amount is filled. (my crunch issues were due to a 200mL overfill only!) overfill = synchro over lubrication = crunch Last edited by 504; 09-06-2015 at 08:42 AM. |
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#260 | |
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Quote:
Thinking you may be onto something. Fluid levels would give inconsistent results between different people on the same fluids.
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#261 | |
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My does the same thing above 3k while hot, trying to make a pass quickly into 5th. It's like it doesn't want to engage 5th and when it does, it feels forced. My car only has 1300 miles on it tho, so maybe it's just a tranny thing. |
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#262 |
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Hi guys,
I just got done today changing my tranny and diff oils to Motul 300 and I must say, it's much much better than the donkey piss OEM fluid. This was done at 600 miles on the odometer with no shavings seen on the magnetic plug of the tranny, but with significant shavings seen on the differential magnetic plug. I was expecting the other way around. I am SO glad I switched the fluids out. |
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#263 |
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OEM fluid is probably just thicker for break-in period? Since I switch to mutol, I can put my gear into 1st without a fight as long as I rev match right & give it a bit of space/time. With oem fluid it was impossible to go in 1st any speed above 9 mile...
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#264 | |
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Quote:
Even the manual only recommends that you "Inspect" the fluid at 23,500 miles. And you should be double-clutch rev-matching if you want to put it into 1st at any speed above a crawl.
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#265 |
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ok guys I need some serious help...
My oem fluid shifted absolutely perfectly, I couldnt comprehend it when I read online people would grind with the clutch fully in; it was the dream transmission. For some reason I decided that I wanted to change the fluid to start on a clean page and remove all new car metal. This was done at 11k km Fluid #1 Redline MTL: This is when shifting started to go meh. All my shifting woes are 2nd and third gear only. The feeling was that the synchros were too lubricated and wouldnt slow down enough to synchronise properly. I would get a clank or "really low rpm" grind occationally and it reduced shifting confidence for me. Fluid #2: Amsoil synchromesh: was abit better not the best, got over it within a matter of 2 weeks Fluid #3: Motul Gear 300. was ok still meh, worst performing when cold. I then discovered that Fluid fill was a big variable in all this, I was never confident with how much I filled. I would put 2.2L.. nothing comes out, 2.3L.. still nothing then finally 2.4 just to be safe. so I refilled gear 300 to 2.2L EXACT. It was significantly better but still catchy sometimes. no soft grind anymore. I went back to the amsoil to 2.2L and its the best so far with the least frequency of catchy shifts but it still isnt what it used to be stock. I know for a fact the transmission is in perfect condition based on the way I drive, how immaculate the fluids come out every single time and how much different it behaves with varying fluids. So now im completely out of ideas. Any help is greatly appreciated |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to 504 For This Useful Post: | Bonburner (10-27-2015) |
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#266 |
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^ You might be onto something. When I fill the oil up to the full line on my motorcycle I'd struggle to find neutral at a stop light with the clutch in, but If I fill it somewhere halfway between the full and half way up the oil level sight glass it would shift perfectly.
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