Am I choosing the right brake pad?

[SkiRideDrive]

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

I went through 2 sets of XP10s and a couple bottles of rbf600 before I stepped up to AP racing sprint and project mu fluid. In retrospect should have done it from the start.

If you plan time trial check your rules, "BBK" may cost points.

Did you swap both at the same time (fluid and brake kit) or seperately. This is the first I've heard of the mu fluid being superior to motul, and am assuming the majority of your improvement was due to the bbk. Thanks!

[CSG David]

Originally Posted by SkiRideDrive

Now that you have mentioned it. I don't have a problem getting on the brakes very hard and very quickly and probably prefer a bit less initial bite than others. I prefer a very linear braking force in relation to pedal pressure.

Carbotech would be good for your application. PM me if you have any questions.

Originally Posted by JS + BRZ

I sure it is. I was just talking about the aggressive level of the pads. Believe it was CSG who told me they are about the same. haha

CR is in between a W5 and W6.

[CSG David]

Originally Posted by SkiRideDrive

Did you swap both at the same time (fluid and brake kit) or seperately. This is the first I've heard of the mu fluid being superior to motul, and am assuming the majority of your improvement was due to the bbk. Thanks!

PMU performs slightly better than RBF660 and significantly better than RBF600. The BBK can sink the heat better than the OEM system so the fluid isn't as significant of a gain. If you have questions on fluid, please do not hesitate to PM.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by PWBRZ

I realize in the long run a BBK is very likely cheaper and less time consuming but in lieu of going BBK, do you think going to aftermarket front rotors would have solved the cracking problem on the stock rotors?
tks

Cracking is a function of extreme heat cycling, and is an indication that your braking system is not keeping up with your braking needs (aka you're too fast and need to upgrade).

[JS + BRZ]

Originally Posted by SkiRideDrive

Did you swap both at the same time (fluid and brake kit) or seperately. This is the first I've heard of the mu fluid being superior to motul, and am assuming the majority of your improvement was due to the bbk. Thanks!

PMU fluid is pricier and better for sure!

[SkiRideDrive]

All great info thanks guys. One last thing. I haven't flushed a car in a while (all race bikes). Recommended amount of brake fluid to swap stock to improved fluid. I was guessing around a liter should do it?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by SkiRideDrive

All great info thanks guys. One last thing. I haven't flushed a car in a while (all race bikes). Recommended amount of brake fluid to swap stock to improved fluid. I was guessing around a liter should do it?

1L for the initial flush, 0.5L to 1.0L for subsequent bleeds.

[Toyarzee]

Originally Posted by JS + BRZ

I've had my PMU Club Racer pads with stock rotors for about 1.5 years. I've done 8 track days (SOW/Buttonwillow/Chuckwalla) and countless canyon runs. It's been awesome. I have another set of PMU CR pads to be installed after the first set is done.

I heard Winmax W6 is equivalent to PMU CR pad. I'm sure you can't go wrong with either choice.

This thread beat me to asking you about your setup. Looking between XP10 front and rear or PMU CR'S along with fluid before the 26th. Don't believe this car will see a BBK for a couple years and I will run the stock rotors till they warp or crack... do you recommend one setup over another, or is it just a win win and driver preference?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Toyarzee

This thread beat me to asking you about your setup. Looking between XP10 front and rear or PMU CR'S along with fluid before the 26th. Don't believe this car will see a BBK for a couple years and I will run the stock rotors till they warp or crack... do you recommend one setup over another, or is it just a win win and driver preference?

Once you get to the real racing pads, it's all preference. Avoid the endurance pads if you're going to be doing any kind of street driving; stick to sprint pads. All the pads mentioned in this thread so far are sprint pads.

[aegisdrgn]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Once you get to the real racing pads, it's all preference. Avoid the endurance pads if you're going to be doing any kind of street driving; stick to sprint pads. All the pads mentioned in this thread so far are sprint pads.

Pardon my ignorance, why avoid the endurance pads? Is it because they won't get up to proper operating temp on the street?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by aegisdrgn

Pardon my ignorance, why avoid the endurance pads? Is it because they won't get up to proper operating temp on the street?

They have a narrow temperature range, where they work optimally, and everywhere else... they kinda don't work too well. They're designed for maximum life, in an environment where the temperatures can be well controlled.

Sprint pads generally will be completely fine for street driving; Endurance pads are not safe for the street at all.

[Toyarzee]

Originally Posted by SkiRideDrive

Plan on swapping the club racers out with the oem pads for track/daily driving. Only other mod I am thinking is a master cylinder brace.

This brings me to my next follow-up question. Do you intend on replacing rotors or turning them every time you change between the pads, or are you buying replacement rotors as well?

I've read threads across miata, 370z, and corolla forums as well, without a definitive answer. Some just use cleaner and steel wool or sandpaper and dgaf it to the streets and then straight to the track.

Is this overthinking...? I was almost compelled to assume just better to stick with the race pads if they are livable on the streets?

[SkiRideDrive]

Originally Posted by Toyarzee

This brings me to my next follow-up question. Do you intend on replacing rotors or turning them every time you change between the pads, or are you buying replacement rotors as well?

I've read threads across miata, 370z, and corolla forums as well, without a definitive answer. Some just use cleaner and steel wool or sandpaper and dgaf it to the streets and then straight to the track.

Is this overthinking...? I was almost compelled to assume just better to stick with the race pads if they are livable on the streets?

I haven't done a ton of research on this but I was just planning on bedding them in each swap and calling it good. I thinking turning the rotors is a bit overkill. I'm open to hearing others thoughts though. My oem pads only have 2k miles on them so I just figured swapping back and forth would save me money and save me some squeal and dusting day to day.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Toyarzee

This brings me to my next follow-up question. Do you intend on replacing rotors or turning them every time you change between the pads, or are you buying replacement rotors as well?

I've read threads across miata, 370z, and corolla forums as well, without a definitive answer. Some just use cleaner and steel wool or sandpaper and dgaf it to the streets and then straight to the track.

Is this overthinking...? I was almost compelled to assume just better to stick with the race pads if they are livable on the streets?

Swapping rotors and keeping mated surfaces is ideal, but few take the time to do it.