Fumoto valve quick question

[uEih]

Originally Posted by chas3wba0

I'd give them a ring anyway and don't mention where you got it unless they ask. I assume they'd be willing to replace it as long as you send yours back to them.

Is oil coming out from the nozzle of the valve, or from around the washer where it seals with the oil pan?

Also, did you tighten the valve body itself with a crescent wrench, or that little hex head with a socket? The former is the proper way. If you did the latter, then you may have broken the Loctite on the threads inside, which could allow oil to seep through.

I should mention my valve doesn't position itself in the slot of the lock position. I don't know how different the other valves are but it seems like it's suppose to lock itself in that little slot when it's closed but I could simply turn mine and it'll open and close, I don't need to push up then turn in order to open it.

I tightened the whole thing with a wrench, I didn't use any sort of hex in the socket at all so that can't be the issue.

I checked where the oil is coming from when I didn't tighten it tight enough and used a paper towel to wipe it from near the washer/oil pan and the oil came from there. Now after thinking it's tight enough and still leaking I tried wiping from the oil pan/washer and I couldn't get any oil on the towel. Which tells me it might be leaking from the valve opening itself, especially with how the opening/closing mechanism doesn't go into the locked slot/position.

If you look at the picture I included in this post, where it shows the "locked" position, mine doesn't go into that slot. Instead it stays right above it and never technically locks. Now that I think of it, that could be the reason why and I will talk to them.

[chas3wba0]

Originally Posted by uEih

I should mention my valve doesn't position itself in the slot of the lock position. I don't know how different the other valves are but it seems like it's suppose to lock itself in that little slot when it's closed but I could simply turn mine and it'll open and close, I don't need to push up then turn in order to open it.

I tightened the whole thing with a wrench, I didn't use any sort of hex in the socket at all so that can't be the issue.

I checked where the oil is coming from when I didn't tighten it tight enough and used a paper towel to wipe it from near the washer/oil pan and the oil came from there. Now after thinking it's tight enough and still leaking I tried wiping from the oil pan/washer and I couldn't get any oil on the towel. Which tells me it might be leaking from the valve opening itself, especially with how the opening/closing mechanism doesn't go into the locked slot/position.

If you look at the picture I included in this post, where it shows the "locked" position, mine doesn't go into that slot. Instead it stays right above it and never technically locks. Now that I think of it, that could be the reason why and I will talk to them.

Yup, I'm thinking the spring isn't working to keep the lever down in the locked position, so road vibrations are causing it to open ever-so-slightly. They should definitely replace that for you

[uEih]

Originally Posted by chas3wba0

Yup, I'm thinking the spring isn't working to keep the lever down in the locked position, so road vibrations are causing it to open ever-so-slightly. They should definitely replace that for you

Just sent them an email, thanks for your input. It sounds like that is the issue.

[wheelhaus]

Originally Posted by uEih

I'll ask around, I'm sure one of my buddy has one. Did you use a torque wrench? If not how much tighter did you tighten it after hand tightening the valve? Quarter or more? I could tighten the valve a bit more it feels like but I do not want to risk it as I don't remember how much I've tightened it.

It's really difficult to describe, because it's a subtle feeling when you can tell something is hand torqued "properly". Counting turns might be another good method, but I've always just gone by feel when not using a torque wrench.

After your last post, I think the valve itself may be leaking if the lever won't lock into position, that may be preventing the valve from closing fully. You may be one of those rare lucky winners of a faulty valve (if you didn't accidentally torque it from the wrong location as chas3wba0 mentioned).

Originally Posted by Kids Heart

I have a concern about the valve. How much old oil is left in after a drain? It appears the threading extends in to the pan a few mm not allowing a total drain? Has anyone measured the oil pan drain threading the the plug threading?

I agree, it's minimal. If you're concerned, then you could certainly measure the thread depth with a 90° hook wire and cut back the threads on the valve, or just slot it slightly at the lowest point once torqued into position.

[uEih]

Originally Posted by wheelhaus

It's really difficult to describe, because it's a subtle feeling when you can tell something is hand torqued "properly". Counting turns might be another good method, but I've always just gone by feel when not using a torque wrench.

After your last post, I think the valve itself may be leaking if the lever won't lock into position, that may be preventing the valve from closing fully. You may be one of those rare lucky winners of a faulty valve (if you didn't accidentally torque it from the wrong location as chas3wba0 mentioned).


I agree, it's minimal. If you're concerned, then you could certainly measure the thread depth with a 90° hook wire and cut back the threads on the valve, or just slot it slightly at the lowest point once torqued into position.

Nope, it came like that out of the package, that's the first thing I noticed and was annoyed by it but decided it might not be a big deal after all as long as it holds properly. Little did I know I should've brought it up before installing.

[DCdesign2000]

Does anyone have the most recent coupon codes for quickvalve.com? I am thinking about getting one.

Is F-108N simply too long for the low ground clearance on the BRZ/FRS?
Is the white nipple extension a good idea or unnecessary for F-108S?

Thank you!

[JonAvalon]

Originally Posted by DCdesign2000

Does anyone have the most recent coupon codes for quickvalve.com? I am thinking about getting one.

Is F-108N simply too long for the low ground clearance on the BRZ/FRS?
Is the white nipple extension a good idea or unnecessary for F-108S?

Thank you!

Current coupon for 5% I have is SPEED15

The 108S should be fine, I have that with the extension and haven't had an issue with it. Yes you will technically need the extension if you're using the clear tubing. I'm about to purchase a replacement 108S soon after my dealer somehow messed up the lever to open the valve door.

[zeal86]

Originally Posted by DCdesign2000

Does anyone have the most recent coupon codes for quickvalve.com? I am thinking about getting one.

Is F-108N simply too long for the low ground clearance on the BRZ/FRS?
Is the white nipple extension a good idea or unnecessary for F-108S?

Thank you!

I just installed the F-108N...my 86 sits pretty low but is not slammed... I am not too worried about the clearance of the Fumoto valve because if I hit something that could potentially open the valve or damage it, I would already know to stop and check because my front bumper would have hit first.

I might install some sort of clip or just safety wire the valve lever in the shut position just to be safe.


projekt zeal86 build

[zeal86]

The amount the F-108N protrudes might be uncomfortable for some... for others it will be out of sight, out of mind.

Anyhow, the pics illustrate what some might be wondering about.
__________________________________________

Drilled a tiny hole in order to safety the valve lever in the closed position (This is totally precautionary).



Front View:



Side View:



projekt zeal86 build

[DCdesign2000]

Originally Posted by JonAvalon

Current coupon for 5% I have is SPEED15

The 108S should be fine, I have that with the extension and haven't had an issue with it. Yes you will technically need the extension if you're using the clear tubing. I'm about to purchase a replacement 108S soon after my dealer somehow messed up the lever to open the valve door.

SPEED15 coupon code doesn't work. Does anyone have a new one?

Thanks!

[JonAvalon]

Originally Posted by DCdesign2000

SPEED15 coupon code doesn't work. Does anyone have a new one?

Thanks!

Ah sorry I should of mentioned it expires on July 31st.

[mid_life_crisis]

Originally Posted by DoomsdayJesus

Haha, nipple.

Having just read through this thread thanks to it getting necroed, I'm astonished it stayed as clean as it did and took as long as it did for this post to show up.

"Quicker is always better"? Not according to any woman I ever knew.
I can't believe no one jumped on "it's tight the first time but after that it's easier"... you've got to be kidding.

[DCdesign2000]

Originally Posted by JonAvalon

Ah sorry I should of mentioned it expires on July 31st.

Not your fault. I was too slow.
If anyone has the new one, please post it.
Thank you!!

[RobertPaulson]

just order from amazon if you have prime, 2 day shipping.

I've had the 108N for over 20k miles and i've had 0 leaks and issues. (can't say the same about the stock drain pan plug). oil changes could not get easier and no mess. at all.