PROcede ESC User Software!

[TM]

I finally got a multimeter and tapped it into the ESC, but the controller isn't working... Not sure what to check..


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[Stormalong]

Originally Posted by TM

I finally got a multimeter and tapped it into the ESC, but the controller isn't working... Not sure what to check..


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How do you have the multimeter wired in?

[TM]

Originally Posted by Stormalong

How do you have the multimeter wired in?

Haha, I meant I tapped the procede controller to the ESC

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by TM

Haha, I meant I tapped the procede controller to the ESC

Did you check which wire you were tapping?


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[TM]

Good news, I removed all of the taps and retapped the wires. It turns the power wire and the ESC wire weren't tapped properly. These taps are HORRIBLE. I manually stripped out the plastic so reveal the bare wires before retapping them. Now my laptop can connect to the procede controller via the software. I also checked to make sure the two green wires were tapped correctly.

Now for the bad news. It still isn't working. The software now reads the live RPM and the blue cell moves up/down left/right when I drive. But when I tap on the throttle, the yellow cell doesn't move left/right. This means the throttle sensor wasn't tapped correctly? Does anyone know which colored wire is the throttle sensor wire (the green wire in the first connector or the white wire in the third connector)?

It's a PITA to go down there and pull out the ECM wires again, but I think I'll need to do it for the third time...

Is there anything else that would cause the yellow cell to not move?

Honestly, I'm kind of frustrated at this whole process. I wish I haven't bought the procede controller and stuck with the WOT switch.

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by TM

Good news, I removed all of the taps and retapped the wires. It turns the power wire and the ESC wire weren't tapped properly. These taps are HORRIBLE. I manually stripped out the plastic so reveal the bare wires before retapping them. Now my laptop can connect to the procede controller via the software. I also checked to make sure the two green wires were tapped correctly.

Now for the bad news. It still isn't working. The software now reads the live RPM and the blue cell moves up/down left/right when I drive. But when I tap on the throttle, the yellow cell doesn't move left/right. This means the throttle sensor wasn't tapped correctly? Does anyone know which colored wire is the throttle sensor wire (the green wire in the first connector or the white wire in the third connector)?

It's a PITA to go down there and pull out the ECM wires again, but I think I'll need to do it for the third time...

Is there anything else that would cause the yellow cell to not move?

Honestly, I'm kind of frustrated at this whole process. I wish I haven't bought the procede controller and stuck with the WOT switch.

TM the yellow square doesn't move. As long as the blue square is moving you are good.

The yellow square is for editing cells. Also the installing the procede on the v2 kits is a lot easier than the old kits.


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[TM]

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

TM the yellow square doesn't move. As long as the blue square is moving you are good.

Originally Posted by Shiv@Openflash

6) Go ahead and start your engine. When you start your engine, you should see a live RPM reading. If not, you didn't tap into the Crank signal wire correctly When you touch the throttle, the active yellow cell should move left to right. If not, you didn't tap into the Throttle sensor wire correctly

Which yellow cell is this referring to?

Anywho, the blue cell moves up and down, and also left and right, but my ESC still doesn't engage. The voltage on my voltmeter never drops and the OFT logged 0psi boost.

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by TM

Which yellow cell is this referring to?



Anywho, the blue cell moves up and down, and also left and right, but my ESC still doesn't engage. The voltage on my voltmeter never drops and the OFT logged 0psi boost.

Shiv made a mistake on the color. Its supposed to be the blue that moves and you manually move the yellow to edit cells.

As for the engagement I think you may have tapped the wrong wire for the esc.


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[TM]

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

Shiv made a mistake on the color. Its supposed to be the blue that moves and you manually move the yellow to edit cells.

As for the engagement I think you may have tapped the wrong wire for the esc.


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Thanks. I'll just the ESC wire again tomorrow when the sun rises (street parking nowadays). At least that wire more accessible. My multimeter read 5.xx volts for it, though.

On a side note, it's been 2 weeks since I brought my car to San Francisco and someone already stole my antenna. Why would anyone steal a stock antenna...


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[TM]

I just spliced the wires together and I think it's working.

I had my friend sit in the car while I was driving with the procede software and he said the blue cell moves into the green areas.

But my OFT only shows about 0.7psi max. Is that normal?

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by TM

I just spliced the wires together and I think it's working.

I had my friend sit in the car while I was driving with the procede software and he said the blue cell moves into the green areas.

But my OFT only shows about 0.7psi max. Is that normal?

Not on my car. Load my tune to be sure?


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[TM]

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

Not on my car. Load my tune to be sure?


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I loaded your tune and it was the same thing. I saw 0.71psi max, and I suspect that was due to the vacuum causing drag reduction to kick on.

Maybe I'm using my multimeter wrong. Rob said I need to set my meter to 20v or 5v and measure the two leads from the ESC wire. I can't set that on my multimeter and just turned it on to the mode that says "10 MegOhm input, DC V". Is this correct?

Anywho, I'll strip some more of the ESC wire and try splicing in the other lead instead to see if that'll make it work.

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by TM

I loaded your tune and it was the same thing. I saw 0.71psi max, and I suspect that was due to the vacuum causing drag reduction to kick on.

Maybe I'm using my multimeter wrong. Rob said I need to set my meter to 20v or 5v and measure the two leads from the ESC wire. I can't set that on my multimeter and just turned it on to the mode that says "10 MegOhm input, DC V". Is this correct?

Anywho, I'll strip some more of the ESC wire and try splicing in the other lead instead to see if that'll make it work.

Yeah you should be only using 1 wire. (An assumption) also on the voltmeter you should be setting it to dc voltage (20v or something similar). You are measuring resistance I believe with the settings you have.


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[TM]

IT WORKS! THAT TORQUE IS FINALLY BACK!

I tapped it into the copper lead instead of the insulated one and I could instantly feel the power. Woohoo!! Thank you car lords

There aren't any good open roads near me to test this yet, but I could feel that wheelspin turning corners in these city blocks (sports map).

For future reference, what should I have set my voltmeter to? (I'm pointing to the mode I used that displayed 5v for the wrong ESC lead):