CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[ZionsWrath]

Originally Posted by gramicci101

If you take the top nut off and compress the strut with a jack does it still clunk? Does the top bolt stick through the plate the same amount on both sides? Are the threads trashed at all? Did the strut spin when you were tightening the top nut?

I can't reproduce the clunk stationary. On the ground or on jack stands. The top bolt hardly sticks out but its the same on both sides, less than OEM stuck out.

Threads were good when I last had nut off and added blue loctite.

Strut didn't spin, I used allen key and pass through socket.

I tracked it for 3 days without issue, half way home started clunking...

[BigFatFlip]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

@BigFatFlip

I wouldn't use the tires to raise the car toooo much...it could start feeling sloppy.

Just a set of Koni Yellow adjustable dampers would be one way to start. You get a pretty decent shock with some rebound adjustability. Add the FRS rear springs for a little more rear rate without a drop. Add some bushings.

If you really wanted to, you could get coilovers (some will be okay with a 10mm drop) and then add some spacers to the top to get you back up to stock height without the risk of topping out the shock by running it out of it's intended range (and still have some droop). But I'm not sure that's the route I would take.

- Andy

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Now that's an unusual request; most coilovers will force you to drop a bit to get full droop travel. If it's due to rough roads, keep in mind that better dampers will also absorb the road better, so unless you're flying over potholes, you shouldn't have any issues. If it's tough driveways... well... there's not really a fix for that

You can also get a 235/45/17 in some tires to get even MORE height.

So I ended up getting the Ohlins and planning to install next week. Since I'm planning on being as close to stock ride height as possible, do either of you guys know the max "shock absorber length" per the manual? Spec is 238mm/381.5mm F/R +/- 10mm adjustment range, so I'm guessing 248mm/391.5mm?

http://www.roadandtrackbyohlins.com/...MI_SUSMP20.pdf

Also, any recommendations on alignment settings? Are these settings tire dependent, ie stock vs 225/45-17? Just wondering since I'm currently on stock wheels+tires and if I need to switch back to my RE11As before getting an alignment.

Sorry for the super specific questions.
Thanks!
-Bryan

[gramicci101]

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

I can't reproduce the clunk stationary. On the ground or on jack stands. The top bolt hardly sticks out but its the same on both sides, less than OEM stuck out.

Threads were good when I last had nut off and added blue loctite.

Strut didn't spin, I used allen key and pass through socket.

I tracked it for 3 days without issue, half way home started clunking...

In that case, I'm out of ideas. I doubt the bottom bolts on the strut are loose. Have you had the plate off to play with it and see if anything seems wrong?

edit: Or, as an easy way to determine if it's a strut or plate issue, put the original top hats back on and see what happens.

[ZionsWrath]

Originally Posted by gramicci101

In that case, I'm out of ideas. I doubt the bottom bolts on the strut are loose. Have you had the plate off to play with it and see if anything seems wrong?

edit: Or, as an easy way to determine if it's a strut or plate issue, put the original top hats back on and see what happens.

I didnt want to i just paid an alignment a week ago

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

I didnt want to i just paid an alignment a week ago

Maybe they didn't properly tighten something?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by BigFatFlip

So I ended up getting the Ohlins and planning to install next week. Since I'm planning on being as close to stock ride height as possible, do either of you guys know the max "shock absorber length" per the manual? Spec is 238mm/381.5mm F/R +/- 10mm adjustment range, so I'm guessing 248mm/391.5mm?

http://www.roadandtrackbyohlins.com/...MI_SUSMP20.pdf

Also, any recommendations on alignment settings? Are these settings tire dependent, ie stock vs 225/45-17? Just wondering since I'm currently on stock wheels+tires and if I need to switch back to my RE11As before getting an alignment.

Sorry for the super specific questions.
Thanks!
-Bryan

I'm not sure what exactly you're asking...

What are you going to be doing with the car?

[BigFatFlip]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

I'm not sure what exactly you're asking...

What are you going to be doing with the car?

Basically what's the max ride height I can get with the ohlins. The manual says with the recommended settings, I can expect about a 20mm drop, so I'm guessing the highest I'm gonna get is a 10mm drop?

I'm mostly going to be doing street/canyon driving, with maybe 3-4 track days and a few autox a year.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by BigFatFlip

Basically what's the max ride height I can get with the ohlins. The manual says with the recommended settings, I can expect about a 20mm drop, so I'm guessing the highest I'm gonna get is a 10mm drop?

I'm mostly going to be doing street/canyon driving, with maybe 3-4 track days and a few autox a year.

Unless you have some crazy driveways or bumps, I recommend you do a 15-20mm drop.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

I didnt want to i just paid an alignment a week ago

Check strut brace fasteners. I read someone reported going crazy looking for a clunk. Loose strut brace. Just an idea.

[Rabbit of Caerbonnog]

Hi guys I have several noob suspension questions:

I've recently bought some ST Coilovers. I've bought these coilovers so that I can run most 17x9 wheels without the issue of rubbing against the suspension. I am planning on lowering the car modestly, an inch max. Note, the BRZ is my DD and I don't track it by any means but I do the occasional spirited driving. And I am still on the current 17x7 rims and stock Primacy (car is only 5 months old with about 4k miles). Now with the background out of the way...

Question 1: I know I need to get rear LCAs for proper alignment, I am planning to purchase the RacerX rear LCA's. With the RacerX LCA's they're asking for the rear camber either +2 to -1 degrees and -1 to -4 degrees. Which one do I need?

Question 2: Since the BRZ is a pure DD car, urethane bushings are better than rod ends correct?

Question 3: What other rear suspension mods do I need to get the proper geometry back after lowering the car? IS it needed even with a modest one inch drop?

Question 4: Raceseng makes a top hat specifically for the ST Coilovers, do I need that to have a proper front geometry?

Thank you for your time.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Rabbit of Caerbonnog

Hi guys I have several noob suspension questions:

I've recently bought some ST Coilovers. I've bought these coilovers so that I can run most 17x9 wheels without the issue of rubbing against the suspension. I am planning on lowering the car modestly, an inch max. Note, the BRZ is my DD and I don't track it by any means but I do the occasional spirited driving. And I am still on the current 17x7 rims and stock Primacy (car is only 5 months old with about 4k miles). Now with the background out of the way...

Question 1: I know I need to get rear LCAs for proper alignment, I am planning to purchase the RacerX rear LCA's. With the RacerX LCA's they're asking for the rear camber either +2 to -1 degrees and -1 to -4 degrees. Which one do I need?

Question 2: Since the BRZ is a pure DD car, urethane bushings are better than rod ends correct?

Question 3: What other rear suspension mods do I need to get the proper geometry back after lowering the car? IS it needed even with a modest one inch drop?

Question 4: Raceseng makes a top hat specifically for the ST Coilovers, do I need that to have a proper front geometry?

Thank you for your time.

1. You want the -1 to -4 degree range (because you'll want somewhere around -1.5 to -2 degrees rear camber).

2. Generally yes. Just make sure they're nice and lubed.

3. The Whiteline roll center kit would be a nice bonus, but you'll be fine with a 1 inch drop.

4. I'm not sure you need camber plates for your uses (you can get the camber you need with the slotted lower mounts). The Raceseng plates are good though and will help if you want a lot of negative camber.

- Andy

[Rabbit of Caerbonnog]

Thank you Andy!
3. What are slotted lower mounts?

4. I'm not planning on running crazy camber. I'm aiming for stock camber. I was asking for camber plates since I have a tendency to over think and over do things and my thinking was that with camber plates I have more options, even if I am aiming for stock camber.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Rabbit of Caerbonnog

Thank you Andy!
3. What are slotted lower mounts?

4. I'm not planning on running crazy camber. I'm aiming for stock camber. I was asking for camber plates since I have a tendency to over think and over do things and my thinking was that with camber plates I have more options, even if I am aiming for stock camber.

The lower mount of the front ST (and KW and RCE) coilovers has one of the bolt holes slotted, so you can adjust camber from down there. You can't get as much as you would from camber plates, but you can get a decent amount.

I wouldn't bother with stock camber, just keep it around -1 to -1.5 up front and you'll have a nice handling street car without excessive tire wear. Lots of toe kills tires, but you can get away with a little negative camber without a problem.

- Andy

[Rabbit of Caerbonnog]

So would your camber recommendation change if I were to switch from 17x7 to 17x9? Or does it not matter?