Jackson Racing Supercharger Owners Thread

[babydriver]

Originally Posted by DaiTT500

Completed my first weekend on e85 on the track at MSR Houston. The car ran much cooler and made good power. I was not afraid of detonation at all. The power was smooth and kept on pulling when I was on it. Above is the picture of my dyno on e85 with remote tuning by moto-east. Blue is the after-tune red is the baseline pre-tune. All weekend I was battling with a race-car corvette ZR1 and all other cars I just passed up effortlessly. All of the bigger horsepower cars kept on thinking they could leave me in the straights and they all were surprised I stayed on their bumper.

Youtube Video

The noive of dat guy! It must have been fun passing the ZR1. I can just imagine the startled look on the driver's face.

[lastexile1987]

Hey CSG mike/David. How much would it be to get replacement oil lines like the ones pictured. Mine are still giving me an issue and there seems to be smaller (smaller than before) amounts of oil leaking. I would just opt to get brand new ones and have the piece of mind.

[alpax]

Originally Posted by lastexile1987

Mine are still giving me an issue and there seems to be smaller (smaller than before) amounts of oil leaking.

Are the hose connections to the radiator tight enough? I had an oil leak at those spots after installation because I was afraid to damage the radiator by overtightening (the risk of this was mentioned in the manual, but no torque amount mentioned for those connections). Then I tightened those a bit more, and it fixed that.

[lastexile1987]

Well my issue that happened was the hose completely separated and purged my oil. I don't know the technical terms for the part but the black hose came off of the dark silver where it screws on to the system. The hose is supposed to be pressure sealed up to 300psi (if I remember correctly what mike told me) and it just popped off a day or two after I had the kit installed. I bought the kit used so nothing I could do except have it fixed. Had it towed and they put clamps on. Still very paranoid and would rather have new ones AND clamps on there. Fiance doesn't even want to ride in the car in case something happens again.

[lastexile1987]

Before, when the oil leaked really bad, it covered about 45-50% of the engine. This morning when I checked the engine, which I've grown accustomed to now, there was oil about the circumference of a softball on the oil pan directly beneath the hose connectors. Definitely not as bad as before but still leaves me worried.

[alpax]

Originally Posted by lastexile1987

Before, when the oil leaked really bad, it covered about 45-50% of the engine. This morning when I checked the engine, which I've grown accustomed to now, there was oil about the circumference of a softball on the oil pan directly beneath the hose connectors. Definitely not as bad as before but still leaves me worried.

The radiator on your picture is for the SC oil line - it's different from your first problem when the leak was in the main engine oil system. The oil, which leaks now, is blue - isn't it? Couldn't you find the actual leaking spot? When oil is not all over the place, the leaky connection should be easy to locate.

First I would try to tighten the hose connectors on this small radiator. They have to be pretty tight because there are no rubber gaskets in those spots, but just metal-to-metal, with a copper crush washer (I believe that's how it's called). BTW, maybe just those washers have to be replaced to keep the connections sealed.

And don't forget keeping an eye on the oil level in that SC oil line can in the driver's side corner of the engine bay.

[lastexile1987]

No the oil is golden (motor oil). Sc oil levels have remained perfect.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by The Slow One

Dai is by 3-4 seconds, having aero helps if you get to our level, I had sti brembos going ccw so I can't count that way and it's not that hard on brakes on either direction other then going into 15. And I go into turn 15 over 80 mph and brush off speed as I go.

Looks like I will be out there in a few weeks. Are you guys running the weekend of April 25th?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by lastexile1987

Well my issue that happened was the hose completely separated and purged my oil. I don't know the technical terms for the part but the black hose came off of the dark silver where it screws on to the system. The hose is supposed to be pressure sealed up to 300psi (if I remember correctly what mike told me) and it just popped off a day or two after I had the kit installed. I bought the kit used so nothing I could do except have it fixed. Had it towed and they put clamps on. Still very paranoid and would rather have new ones AND clamps on there. Fiance doesn't even want to ride in the car in case something happens again.

Send us a PM.

It sounds like the fitting was damaged during the uninstall.

[cdrazic93]

Originally Posted by sw20kosh

No. Huge swings in temperature are bad regardless. Don't argue with Mike/CSG unless you are extremely experienced at track driving. They live and breathe track and do very much know what they are talking about.

what sw20kosh said. The only point at which i would argue with them is based on prior knowledge of the material used in the pads and rotors with some background in thermo.

Just like when they make harder steel, they cant just heat it up and cool it indefintely. That introduces too much carbon into both the pads and rotors causing them to become brittle.

Keeping your brakes at a certain temp during track will not only keep the braking consistant but keep fade down. This is assuming you have good enough brake fluid that doesnt boil at the first sign of a hard stop.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by alpax

The radiator on your picture is for the SC oil line - it's different from your first problem when the leak was in the main engine oil system. The oil, which leaks now, is blue - isn't it? Couldn't you find the actual leaking spot? When oil is not all over the place, the leaky connection should be easy to locate.

First I would try to tighten the hose connectors on this small radiator. They have to be pretty tight because there are no rubber gaskets in those spots, but just metal-to-metal, with a copper crush washer (I believe that's how it's called). BTW, maybe just those washers have to be replaced to keep the connections sealed.

And don't forget keeping an eye on the oil level in that SC oil line can in the driver's side corner of the engine bay.

I'd like to make an important addition.

**Use assembly lube or the same fluid the system will hold**

This will help prevent damage, as the threads will not be "grinding" when you tighten.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ScionOfHorus

So is getting your brakes hot enough to boil the fluid.

Well, if you're boiling fluid, the REAL solution is a BBK. Technically, I want the rotors to stay hot, but the calipers and knuckle assembly to stay cool.

The rule of thumb we use, is if you have a properly sized brake system, you should not boil RBF600. The stock system will degrade RBF600 rather quickly with an experienced driver, even an intermediate level one that has learned the limits of braking grip. This is where the other fluids we recommend come in. They will temporarily raise the limits of the system.

http://counterspacegarage.com/pmu-gfour335.html

http://counterspacegarage.com/torque...uid-dot-4.html

Oh, there's a buy 3, get 1 free special on torque right now too...

[lastexile1987]

Took some very quick pictures since I am at work. Sorry about the low quality. First is just a view down with the amount of oil.

Second is a shot with the hose that came off. I tried to point it out but I have my glove on and I had to crop the hell out of the picture before I could upload it.

Third is just another shot of oil on the oil pan.

I will try tightening the hose, a little, so I don't damage it but I would still like to look into getting replacements.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by lastexile1987

Took some very quick pictures since I am at work. Sorry about the low quality. First is just a view down with the amount of oil.

Second is a shot with the hose that came off. I tried to point it out but I have my glove on and I had to crop the hell out of the picture before I could upload it.

Third is just another shot of oil on the oil pan.

I will try tightening the hose, a little, so I don't damage it but I would still like to look into getting replacements.

Those clamps are not designed to hold anywhere near the pressure of the oil system. Lets get you some new lines.

PM me.