Kraftwerks Supercharger Owners Thread

[Freeman]

Originally Posted by nlowell

Anyone else running catch-cans? Here is my drivers side can after 1 track day at Chuckwalla (~120 minutes of track time) and ~2,000 miles after that.

Mostly fuel-smelling liquid with some sludge floating and covering the bottom. The scary part is that this is max fill once screwed on...eeks.

I am running a Revworks vented catch can. Its got blowby like that in there.

[Triumphrider]

I'm on the moto East tune... Runs like factory.

[DAN_BRZ]

does anyone know the thread type on the skunk2 sandwich plate?

[SPCorBUST]

Originally Posted by nlowell

Anyone else running catch-cans? Here is my drivers side can after 1 track day at Chuckwalla (~120 minutes of track time) and ~2,000 miles after that.

Mostly fuel-smelling liquid with some sludge floating and covering the bottom. The scary part is that this is max fill once screwed on...eeks.

Holy mackerel... A catch can is going to the top of my ordering list. My previous catch cans on other cars never really caught too much, but the pea soup you have there is downright scary.

[beemer]

Called Kraftwerks and they said it's because I'm on the base tune and not really "tuned" so who do I go to to tune for central Washington? Lol

[Rulin]

Originally Posted by nlowell

Anyone else running catch-cans? Here is my drivers side can after 1 track day at Chuckwalla (~120 minutes of track time) and ~2,000 miles after that.

Mostly fuel-smelling liquid with some sludge floating and covering the bottom. The scary part is that this is max fill once screwed on...eeks.

Whelp, my mishimoto catch can is on order now

[Xero-Limit]

Originally Posted by nlowell

Anyone else running catch-cans? Here is my drivers side can after 1 track day at Chuckwalla (~120 minutes of track time) and ~2,000 miles after that.

Mostly fuel-smelling liquid with some sludge floating and covering the bottom. The scary part is that this is max fill once screwed on...eeks.

What kind of driving do you do? Do you have an oil cooler? Looks like water. Usually most catch cans will have a mixture of gas, oil, and water. The white foamy stuff is the water. If you get a lot of it, it usually indicates lots of short drives where the water doesn't fully boil away. This is one reason I don't recommend the "separator" designs. They just separate the junk only to pour it right back into the crank case. At least like this you can pour it out somewhere other than your oil pan.

[nlowell]

I have the Radium dual can setup - this was all from the driver's side (crank case vent). The passenger side (PCV) is still bone dry.

[nlowell]

Originally Posted by moto-mike

What kind of driving do you do? Do you have an oil cooler? Looks like water. Usually most catch cans will have a mixture of gas, oil, and water. The white foamy stuff is the water. If you get a lot of it, it usually indicates lots of short drives where the water doesn't fully boil away. This is one reason I don't recommend the "separator" designs. They just separate the junk only to pour it right back into the crank case. At least like this you can pour it out somewhere other than your oil pan.

Yeah, I'm either doing short trips to local stores (1-10 miles) or driving to the airport (~25 miles). Mostly short trips like you mentioned though.

What kind do you typically recommend?

[Freeman]

Originally Posted by beemer

Called Kraftwerks and they said it's because I'm on the base tune and not really "tuned" so who do I go to to tune for central Washington? Lol

Where you at? Im in the spokane area.

I wouldn't go to anyone other than Bob Wantanabe at Drift Office in auburn.

[pgranberg11]

Originally Posted by Freeman

Depends on how much money you want to spend. A C30 on a stock motor with E85 will put you over 300whp, and there are others running the C38 on a stock motor with E85 pushing close to 400whp. I dont know many that are running the C38 on the stock engine with 93 pump gas. If you're going to go that route I would build the engine and drop the compression. I would say a felxfuel tune and the C30 would be pretty good for a DD. That way when you want more (and you probably will) you can just top off with E85 and go have fun.

Just keep in mind all the power will be up at the top and there isnt much down low with centrifugal superchargers.

Just to chime in, I'm one of those few that have the c38 kit with 93 octane. As far as reliability and not blowing up I think it's a modest combo. I haven't dynoed the car yet so I don't know official numbers. I could guess anywhere from 265-285 whp? Not sure. However, my friend checked my duty cycle for fuel pump and injectors. He said that those were 90% maxed out. So I'd definitely suggest getting injectors and fuel pump upgraded. I just ordered my DW 265 pump and i'll probably be getting ID 1000s. After that's done i'm looking to do e85 and hope to the car gods I don't blow up...lol

With that being said, anyone on here do e85 with the c38???

[beemer]

Originally Posted by Freeman

Where you at? Im in the spokane area.

I wouldn't go to anyone other than Bob Wantanabe at Drift Office in auburn.

I'm in Yakima. I just got the Isis cat back installed last night. So the supercharger and the exhaust is all I've done. With plans for headers and back

[86SPEED]

Originally Posted by pgranberg11

Just to chime in, I'm one of those few that have the c38 kit with 93 octane. As far as reliability and not blowing up I think it's a modest combo. I haven't dynoed the car yet so I don't know official numbers. I could guess anywhere from 265-285 whp? Not sure. However, my friend checked my duty cycle for fuel pump and injectors. He said that those were 90% maxed out. So I'd definitely suggest getting injectors and fuel pump upgraded. I just ordered my DW 265 pump and i'll probably be getting ID 1000s. After that's done i'm looking to do e85 and hope to the car gods I don't blow up...lol

With that being said, anyone on here do e85 with the c38???

I'm running the C38 on E85 for about 7-8 months now. roughly 12k miles. I've gone through many tuners and ended up with Moto-East, depending on the tuner, I've ran Gram 750cc injectors and they were fine on everyone tune but Bill at Delicious, after 7500 rpm it was just a little lean, he said he likes to use a little more port injector instead of direct injectors. I swapped for 900cc DW injectors until my 1000cc Grams came in and the 900's were enough. Now on the Moto-East tune i don't know if i could get away with 750's, we just always had what was in there, i guess i could check my duty cycle and find out. but the car runs so good now all the way up to the 7750 rev limit that i never messed with any thing else. According to the AEM fail safe I'm hitting 18.9 psi at the limiter (I'm on the 85mm higher boost pulley)

We have just been testing the car until it does pop, then ill have Skunk rods, valve train and other engine components installed, But I've had no issues other then replacing a belt within the first 1k miles because i was running pulleys way to small and was warned before hand that they would cause the belt not to last, the last 11k miles have been trouble free. On Shawn Church Dynapak it put 417 to the hub. it was rich enough to burn the cat out of the front pipe, and Bill did some more adjustments after that dyno session to add quite a bit more power enough that it would spin the 245 toyo poxes 1 in 4th at over 120mph (mines a auto)

I just spent the past weekend on 91 (Moto-East flex fuel kit) and driving back and forth to SoCal and again no issues, 34mpg on the way back. So far I have had nothing but a good experience with my C38 on flex fuel with the higher higher boost pulley. (normal is 95mm, high boost is 90mm, then i asked if they had any other option and they sent me the 85mm pulley)

[Andreas83]

starting with test fitting of IC, supercharger oil cooler and intake tube with filter tomorrow.
I have to make sure that everything fits combined with a thick ultra skunk2 radiator.

What do you guys think of my idea to use jiffy tite couplers on the hoses for the supercharger cooling system?

Where I live, tuning cars legally is difficult.
So the kit has to come off to pass EU vehicle inspection every second year.
I just found out the insane price on the rotrex oil.
Quick couplers would avoid loss of oil if I remove the kit.
The car will probably be modded more as well. (disassemble kit because of other mods.)
It would also possibly not let air in to the system, then I wont have to bleed out air from the system every time.
According to the info I can find on jiffy tite couplers, they should not affect oil flow much.

Any toughts? Bad idea? Good idea?