Broken Exhaust Stud During FP Install - Page 2 - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

mig86 · 03-30-2015, 04:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonboy99

How do you mean not set up to do it? You don't need to lift the motor, it's just a case of wriggling / rotating the OP to the right angle then it just slips out easily. Might be different if you are right hand drive though IIRC.

My RHD just needed the engine jacked off the mounts a little. After removing the heat shields it came out easily. Much easier than sorting that damn stud!

Teclis · 03-30-2015, 05:22 AM

Same thing happened to me when I changed my FP, I used titanium drill, to drill out the stud/bolt (pin bolt), it was hard as hell to get out, but doable.. then just replace it with a new bolt and nut

EvoPrecision8 · 03-30-2015, 09:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonboy99

How do you mean not set up to do it? You don't need to lift the motor, it's just a case of wriggling / rotating the OP to the right angle then it just slips out easily. Might be different if you are right hand drive though IIRC.

It was my understanding that the engine had to be lifted slightly. If that's not the case I will probably just try to slip the OP out and get that stud drilled out. Thanks.

cnk · 03-30-2015, 09:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EvoPrecision8

It was my understanding that the engine had to be lifted slightly. If that's not the case I will probably just try to slip the OP out and get that stud drilled out. Thanks.

Remove the heat shielding first and it will slide out the back. Just takes some manipulation of the OP as you slide it out, but it's definitely doable.

jonboy99 · 03-30-2015, 12:13 PM

Yep, doesn't need any force. It seems impossible at first but twist it just right and it just slides out. I didn't remove the shielding until after I'd removed it.
*edit* actually maybe I did remove the shielding first, was a while ago now.

OmarYasin · 03-30-2015, 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EvoPrecision8

It was my understanding that the engine had to be lifted slightly. If that's not the case I will probably just try to slip the OP out and get that stud drilled out. Thanks.

Oem op will not slide out. U must take the nut from the passanger side motor mount and lift the motor about 2 in for clearance.

Clipdat · 03-30-2015, 01:17 PM

Not true. I was able to get my OEM overpipe off and on twice w/o doing anything to the motor mounts. Might help to remove the heat shield first.

Quote:

Originally Posted by OmarYasin

Oem op will not slide out. U must take the nut from the passanger side motor mount and lift the motor about 2 in for clearance.

OmarYasin · 03-30-2015, 01:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clipdat

Not true. I was able to get my OEM overpipe off and on twice w/o doing anything to the motor mounts. Might help to remove the heat shield first.

I couldn't take heatshields off because the little bolts were corroded, thus motor was lifted to pull the op off

Clipdat · 03-30-2015, 01:27 PM

Oh yeah, I could see that, those bolts are not very high quality.

Quote:

Originally Posted by OmarYasin

I couldn't take heatshields off because the little bolts were corroded, thus motor was lifted to pull the op off

OmarYasin · 03-30-2015, 02:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clipdat

Oh yeah, I could see that, those bolts are not very high quality.

Btw i ended up with two oem op lol. I bought the invidia op to go with the invidia catless fp and catback and i got a hold of a oem header for free so now i have two oem op one with a broken stud in it the other with the studs still in contact

OmarYasin · 03-30-2015, 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clipdat

Oh yeah, I could see that, those bolts are not very high quality.

Trust me i tried to take the op off for about 20min till i said screw it and jacked the motor up.

EvoPrecision8 · 03-30-2015, 11:24 PM

Thanks for all the help guys! In the end my local shop ended up giving me a fantastic deal on a Tomei overpipe they had in stock. I'll probably still replace the stud on the stock one once it's off the car. That way I can always throw it back on if I sell the car or need major warranty work.

EvoPrecision8 · 03-30-2015, 11:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clipdat

Oh yeah, I could see that, those bolts are not very high quality.

The stupidest part about the whole thing was the way it happened. The nut broke free without too much trouble, then it seized with only a couple of threads left on. The car is nearly brand new (1200 km) as well, so I wasn't expecting the heat or weathering to have seized things up too badly yet.

mig86 · 03-31-2015, 12:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EvoPrecision8

The stupidest part about the whole thing was the way it happened. The nut broke free without too much trouble, then it seized with only a couple of threads left on. The car is nearly brand new (1200 km) as well, so I wasn't expecting the heat or weathering to have seized things up too badly yet.

Exact same here..... very frustrating.

03-30-2015, 05:22 AM	#16
Teclis Marine Electrician Join Date: Jun 2013 Drives: Toyota TRD86, 2014 Location: In the deep forests of Norway! Posts: 213 Thanks: 274 Thanked 93 Times in 63 Posts Mentioned: 4 Post(s)	Same thing happened to me when I changed my FP, I used titanium drill, to drill out the stud/bolt (pin bolt), it was hard as hell to get out, but doable.. then just replace it with a new bolt and nut __________________ My Toyota TRD86 can be found here: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63303

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03-30-2015, 12:13 PM	#19
jonboy99 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Drives: Black Panda BRZ Location: Norf London, innit Posts: 157 Thanks: 59 Thanked 36 Times in 28 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s)	Yep, doesn't need any force. It seems impossible at first but twist it just right and it just slides out. I didn't remove the shielding until after I'd removed it. edit actually maybe I did remove the shielding first, was a while ago now.

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