Replacing Struts and Installing Coil Springs

[ap5512]

I did put a lot of muscle into it but then the inner shaft that is being held in place by the allen key wants to spin too and I can't seem to get a good enough grip to make it stop. Any suggestions?

[Koa]

Originally Posted by ap5512

I did put a lot of muscle into it but then the inner shaft that is being held in place by the allen key wants to spin too and I can't seem to get a good enough grip to make it stop. Any suggestions?

Two ways:

T-Bone handle hex key
Vice grip the L-shaped hex key

Do the fronts while the car is ON the ground.. Trust

[ap5512]

So the first time I did with the hex key, I used pliers to hold them in place but looks like I may need the vice grips. Also, I know the shaft spun a little bit (like half turn) while putting muscle down but yesterday and today I noticed some clunking noises. I am not sure if the new header I installed is loose or indeed my struts are gone...FML.

[Koa]

Originally Posted by ap5512

So the first time I did with the hex key, I used pliers to hold them in place but looks like I may need the vice grips. Also, I know the shaft spun a little bit (like half turn) while putting muscle down but yesterday and today I noticed some clunking noises. I am not sure if the new header I installed is loose or indeed my struts are gone...FML.

stock? if so I have a good pair you can have.. pay for shipping and it's yours

[Basket Case]

Just did this last saturday. All i can say is et a decent spring compressor, and removing the rear strut is not as easy as I thought it would be...

[x1UP]

I'm really afraid of doing this myself as I might do something wrong and i'm screwed. Any tips for a beginner in changing suspension?

[Basket Case]

Originally Posted by x1UP

I'm really afraid of doing this myself as I might do something wrong and i'm screwed. Any tips for a beginner in changing suspension?

Give yourself more time then you think you need to complete the job, get a second set of hands if you can, and the bolts connecting the hub and strut will need to be punched tout with a mallet...

[x1UP]

Originally Posted by Basket Case

Give yourself more time then you think you need to complete the job, get a second set of hands if you can, and the bolts connecting the hub and strut will need to be punched tout with a mallet...

Thanks. I'm definitely going to have a second second hand, I just worry about not being able to tighten it at the right amount or not doing something right.

[cnk]

Take your time and make sure you have all the right tools before you start. A good torque wrench will definitely be needed to ensure everything is properly torqued down.

[MileHighBRZ]

Well, I just finished my first ever spring job. I couldn't have done it without with DIY thanks for the great write up. I had a buddy helping me and I wouldn't dare do it alone myself. But we got it finished in 3.5 hours..


Thanks for the great thread

[exE36M3]

Originally Posted by buckseventysix

I installed springs today. No need to remove the struts from the car to do this. Just unbolt the top hat bolts using a pass through and allen wrench combo, undo the sway bar in the front and the LCA bolts on the rears. The struts will lower just enough so you can rotate them out enough to put the new springs in.

For the rears, I used the jack the car comes with to lift the LCAs and guide the strut back into the hole.

Start to finish took about 2 hours for all four corners double checking everything.

Thanks for this man!
If anyone is keeping the stock shocks or just swapping in camber plates or replacing the top mount, this method is a sub 1 hour job per wheel.

Steps are:

1. Undo the upper strut nut... use a 17mm pass through socket and a L-allen key. The trick here is to get a wood block or something to let the allen key wedge against it so it won't rotate.

2. Get car on stands, jack up, etc.

3. Pull the wheel off.

4. Undo all the sensor, ABS, brake lines - flathead screwdriver for this. 12mm socket to undo the brake line mount. DON'T DISCONNECT ANYTHING, just undo the guide mounts.

5. Undo the sway bar link - you may need an impact gun for this to get it to loosen. The stock torque is only 34lb but it's on there.

6. You should be able to give the strut a good yank down as the spring will already have expanded and the strut assembly will rotate or drop forward. Watch the FENDER when it does!

7. From here - lift the stock spring and top plate up and off. Can also access the strut top mount if you want to swap that.

8. To drop in new springs... you will need a spring compressor. Auto stores rent them for like $50 in Norcal. They were out so I bought mine for $35.
Position the springs in the strut perch and SEE where the coil bottom ends. You'll need to position the spring compressor to 1 - compress the spring so you can get the strut top and mount on, 2 - be able to REMOVE the spring compressor after you've put it all together.

9. Stand on the hub for leverage and gently guide the strut back into place.
Use a jack under the wheel hub to gently move it up. Also a good time to put the sway bar nut back on too.

Hope this helped you guys!
First time I did this, was a 3 hour job for one wheel. I was experimenting. By the time I got to wheel 2, it was 45 min.

[buckseventysix]

If you're using my method, you don't even need spring compressors, as the springs uncompress as you lift the car and have nowhere to go. Putting lowering springs on is also easy since they fit just fine without compressing them. I also ended up putting in some rubber dampers to get rid of the clicking noise, just pulled them off Miata struts :P

[HeadBanger]

Is an alignment REALLY necessary after doing this? I might have to put 400km on the car before I can get it aligned

[toast]

Just did this tonight. Just an FYI, in the picture that shows the rear bumpstops they have been pressed on too far. There is a collar with a lower lip and the picture shows the bumpstops down below this lower lip - they should just rest on the lower lip. The first time you really use the bumpstops this will fix itself since the stop will pop over that lip and seal against the top mount, but it might make a nasty noise as it does so.

Also, the rear springs are upside down - the words Eibach should be right side up.

There is zero need for a spring compressor to do this job. If you remove the top nuts on the struts while the car is weighted you can remove the strut/spring and leave the topmounts bolted in the car. On the rear it is helpful to disconnect the sway bar endlink bolt so that you get more vertical movement out of the LCA.