Kraftwerks Supercharger Owners Thread

[raytrix]

Houston, we have a problem.
The intercooler 2.5" transition pipe that routes under the driver side headlights are being pinched really bad. This is for the C38 setup and it seems there is a major fitment issue here with cars that have the JDM GT86 HID headlights like the Monogram and Series 10 FRS's. @KraftWerks do you guys have a solution to this issue. It seems that the GT86 headlights might have been overlooked during the kit design process because this factory GT86 headlight has a bigger bulge behind the headlight which causes the hose to be sandwiched in that tight area. See below picture for reference. I have concerns about the engine vibration will cause this hose to rub on the headlight shroud all day till a hole forms.

[RawrSoft]

@KraftWerks Been a little while now, so I figured I'd ask. How is the CARB testing coming? Is it still something you're pursuing?

[jflogerzi]

Originally Posted by RawrSoft

@KraftWerks Been a little while now, so I figured I'd ask. How is the CARB testing coming? Is it still something you're pursuing?

Even if they get it, I am not sure if you can get it after the fact....

[SPCorBUST]

Originally Posted by KraftWerks

Yeah, keep the car in the RPM window beneath where it was seeing significant boost figures will allow it to drive.

You'll obviously not want to be WOT'ing the car up to that 4K mark either but the car should be safe to drive moderately until the parts arrive, which should be within the next couple days.

Nice guidelines for limping.

Don't limp too fast. (no WOT)
Don't limp too hard. (not above 4k)
Don't limp too long. (couple days)

If your belt snaps at the track, you've got a long way to limp. Seems overly risky, particularly if you're on a FlexFuel or E85 tune. Think about it - you'd be driving naturally aspirated on a supercharger tune set up for boost, bigger injectors and different fuel. For me, the closest track is 50+ miles away - most are twice that distance or more. Common sense seems to dictate that if the car isn't set up to be driven that way, then I shouldn't be driving it for extended periods of time that way. Hence, short distance limping, and even that seems a bit sketchy.

Its like trying to walk across hot coals - sure, you can do it for a short distance and for a short time, but there's no mistaking that you're playing with fire.

[86SPEED]

Originally Posted by SPCorBUST

Nice guidelines for limping.

Don't limp too fast. (no WOT)
Don't limp too hard. (not above 4k)
Don't limp too long. (couple days)

If your belt snaps at the track, you've got a long way to limp. Seems overly risky, particularly if you're on a FlexFuel or E85 tune. Think about it - you'd be driving naturally aspirated on a supercharger tune set up for boost, bigger injectors and different fuel. For me, the closest track is 50+ miles away - most are twice that distance or more. Common sense seems to dictate that if the car isn't set up to be driven that way, then I shouldn't be driving it for extended periods of time that way. Hence, short distance limping, and even that seems a bit sketchy.

Its like trying to walk across hot coals - sure, you can do it for a short distance and for a short time, but there's no mistaking that you're playing with fire.

This makes no sense at all... Think about it.. when you drive around you dont see boost unless you want to.. when i drive 90% of my daily driving i hardly see boost if at all, most of my acceleration has a vacuum according to my boost gauge. ONLY when i want to do i see boost. and i can merge on the highway and all with out seeing boost. I don't drive from the stop light with it floored. so for my driving 90% of the time it wouldn't matter if i had a stock map or a map meant for boost since its in vacuum or 0psi. I'm not saying that running around with the belt off the same as it is when its on, but you can drive "normally" without the belt. when i was running their small pulleys and knew that the belt wouldn't last long, i still ran for 3 days with no issues, over 150 miles. i just drove normally, even under full throttle just to see what would happen, it just ran a little rich.

Again im not telling people to go running out on the track without the belt. BUT you make it sound like its extremely dangerous and its not. IF you have to adjust your driving style a little to make sure you dont get into the part of the map meant for boost then do that.. I can make it the 35 mile round trip to and from work without ever seeing 1psi lol

-Thomas

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by fteightysix

This makes no sense at all... Think about it.. when you drive around you dont see boost unless you want to.. when i drive 90% of my daily driving i hardly see boost if at all, most of my acceleration has a vacuum according to my boost gauge. ONLY when i want to do i see boost. and i can merge on the highway and all with out seeing boost. I don't drive from the stop light with it floored. so for my driving 90% of the time it wouldn't matter if i had a stock map or a map meant for boost since its in vacuum or 0psi. I'm not saying that running around with the belt off the same as it is when its on, but you can drive "normally" without the belt. when i was running their small pulleys and knew that the belt wouldn't last long, i still ran for 3 days with no issues, over 150 miles. i just drove normally, even under full throttle just to see what would happen, it just ran a little rich.

Again im not telling people to go running out on the track without the belt. BUT you make it sound like its extremely dangerous and its not. IF you have to adjust your driving style a little to make sure you dont get into the part of the map meant for boost then do that.. I can make it the 35 mile round trip to and from work without ever seeing 1psi lol

-Thomas

No belt on the SC = air is being pulled through the SC, rather than the SC pushing air and boost being bled off.

Think about it.

Whether MAF or MAP tuned, AFR is determined by airflow and torque demand. You won't "run rich" because you have no boost.

[86SPEED]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

No belt on the SC = air is being pulled through the SC, rather than the SC pushing air and boost being bled off.

Think about it.

Whether MAF or MAP tuned, AFR is determined by airflow and torque demand. You won't "run rich" because you have no boost.

are you saying i saw the wrong numbers on the AEM failsafe guage?? it read 9.7 under a WOT pull.. normally its 10.5-11.0. again i only did it to see how it would react and all.. but the car ran fine for me for 3 days and over 150 miles.. so im not sure what your saying because i know what i saw.. i also have no issue taking off the belt and making a video of before and after.

-Thomas

[Triumphrider]

Under 3500 rpm ie no boost the car should perform pretty much the same as stock. No reason it shouldn't.

[RawrSoft]

Originally Posted by jflogerzi

Even if they get it, I am not sure if you can get it after the fact....

I've been waiting to see what they do, so I don't have one of their blowers yet. Engine is out for new pistons and rods so I figured it's probably about time to figure out my game plan. If there was a reasonable wait time, then wait I would.

[SPCorBUST]

Originally Posted by RawrSoft

I've been waiting to see what they do, so I don't have one of their blowers yet. Engine is out for new pistons and rods so I figured it's probably about time to figure out my game plan. If there was a reasonable wait time, then wait I would.

are you doing a plain rebuild, or a built motor?

as far as CARB goes, they've been quiet about that for a while now.

halfway through february and CARB seems like snake oil more and more each day.

[mit_peid]

How much would you bet that they will say they're just about done with CARB testing? They've been close to being done with CARB for about a year now when JAckson Racing, vortech, and innovate/Sprintex all already have their CARB approvals. Maybe we should have listened to CSG Mike.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[nlowell]

Has anyone removed their system to install new pulleys? Any tips on removing the red lock-tite bolts. I'm worried about stripping the heads. I'm also hoping I can do it without disconnecting the supercharger oil lines as I don't really want to bleed the system again or lose unicorn juice. Thoughts?

[andrillox]

Maybe this link can help: http://us.henkel-adhesives-blog.com/...-Threadlocker/

[SPCorBUST]

Originally Posted by nlowell

Has anyone removed their system to install new pulleys? Any tips on removing the red lock-tite bolts. I'm worried about stripping the heads. I'm also hoping I can do it without disconnecting the supercharger oil lines as I don't really want to bleed the system again or lose unicorn juice. Thoughts?

@andrillox posted a good link. if you don't want a blowtorch in the engine bay though, you could use a heat gun instead.