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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous

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Old 01-27-2015, 12:57 AM   #15
Alltezza
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Did you change your spark plugs? When you got your Supercharger installed?
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Old 01-27-2015, 08:25 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chaoscentral View Post
1 heat range colder spark plugs would be a recommendation. Those were basically a requirement when I supercharged my 2006 Mustang GT as they help prevent detonation on pump gas.

you can't 'em

the stock plug is as cold as you can get
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Old 01-27-2015, 11:57 AM   #17
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ZXE27HBR8 is our oem spark plug. Denso. heat range 9. You can go colder but you may not need to. Its pretty damn cold for 200 hp car. The plugs can handle a boosted frs.
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Old 01-27-2015, 12:01 PM   #18
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Forester XT oil cooler retrofit. Best $130 you'd ever spend on the longevity of your engine
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Old 01-27-2015, 12:14 PM   #19
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Old 01-27-2015, 01:26 PM   #20
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Did you change your spark plugs? When you got your Supercharger installed?
I am still at the planning stage, really tempted but afraid of the consequence. Especially I don't have the best of luck personally when it comes to mechanics. Personally I am always the one that has random problems that are 90% not my fault.
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Old 01-27-2015, 01:41 PM   #21
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Forester XT oil cooler retrofit. Best $130 you'd ever spend on the longevity of your engine
Oooh. Never heard about that. Sounds like a worthy upgrade.
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Old 01-27-2015, 01:45 PM   #22
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Quote:
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Oooh. Never heard about that. Sounds like a worthy upgrade.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=73684

You NEED these two:

21311AA170 - OIL COOLER, COMPLETE
21317AA070 - CONNECTOR, OIL COOLER

How you want to route is up to you. The thread/video I pasted above routes to the throttle body coolant res lines (turbo guys typically tap into this to cool their snails). The connections are not 1:1, and some say the disparity between the oil cooler and TB diameters will affect performance.

However, as evidenced by the video and others who went this route, the performance is close to or exactly like the alternative option, which would be to tap into the block.. lots more parts and headaches.
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Old 01-27-2015, 04:16 PM   #23
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I am still at the planning stage, really tempted but afraid of the consequence. Especially I don't have the best of luck personally when it comes to mechanics. Personally I am always the one that has random problems that are 90% not my fault.
I read somewhere that when you boost your car, you gotta install new spark plugs that are like 1 level colder, and they recommended some spark plugs but I saw that a lot of people love this particular spark plug.

http://www.redline360.com/hks-spark-...rz-50003-M45HL

I'm about to head to work but you can probably look into this on your free time.
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Old 01-27-2015, 04:30 PM   #24
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I read somewhere that when you boost your car, you gotta install new spark plugs that are like 1 level colder, and they recommended some spark plugs but I saw that a lot of people love this particular spark plug.

http://www.redline360.com/hks-spark-...rz-50003-M45HL

I'm about to head to work but you can probably look into this on your free time.
It wouldn't hurt but probably not totally necessary. Not sure why subaru tossed those on a non boosted 200hp car, but its very high grade plug for this car.
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Old 01-30-2015, 12:56 PM   #25
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While I might be talking out of my ass, Subaru probably intended for this car to be mildly boosted as an upgraded model from the get go, which would explain some of their design choices. Plus, all of their other models are turbo equipped, so I wouldn't be surprised if they did it out of habit.
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Old 01-30-2015, 03:20 PM   #26
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While I might be talking out of my ass, Subaru probably intended for this car to be mildly boosted as an upgraded model from the get go, which would explain some of their design choices. Plus, all of their other models are turbo equipped, so I wouldn't be surprised if they did it out of habit.
Well hey i ain't complaining hehe. Less stufg we need to buy makes it easier to upgrade in terms of boost.
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Old 05-20-2015, 03:58 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by sw20kosh View Post
Stock radiator doesn't need changing.
I would change it if you're going FI and tracking. Have you seen the stock radiator? Its about as thin as a AA battery. I Changed it, and I highly recommend it along with the Oil cooler - again IF you are going to track.

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Racing clutch? Unless you're driving like you're racing on a daily basis, I think a stage 1 will suffice if you have a modest tune or 2 clutch if more aggresive. This way a hardier clutch won't wear so fast compared to stock. I suggest staying away from puck clutches unless you want to hate driving stick.
On my vortech kit on stock pulley, tuned to 275/hp 199/tq the stock clutch started slipping at 10k miles. The stage 1 exedy clutch only holds 203tq and the wheels, while the stage two holds 224. So, might as well do Stage 2 if you're going to do it.

Quote:
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I haven't done much research about racing clutches, what do they do exactly? I know they tend to bite the transmission harder, but what does it mean to driver? RPM drops faster? Easier to stall the car?
Holds more power. Negatives are that the engagement is less smooth because you have less friction surfaces. I'd compare it to this in terms of engagement:

Stock clutch = Dimmer light switch
Race clutch = On/Off light switch

Otherwise it's just holding power.
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Old 05-20-2015, 04:10 PM   #28
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I guess maybe they could still be interested 4 months later... at least it's in 2015.
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