All the parts that could potentially increase the reliability of a superchared BRZ?
 

I've been tempting to go FI since the day I got the BRZ last year, and reliability is the biggest reason that's holding me back. I know there is a lot of discussion about what's the safest tune and there is no definite answer to that question: some people are doing fine with 400 whp while others have engine failure at 200 whp and stuff like that.

Personally I think I will be shooting for 280-300 whp on 93 Octane and stay CARB legal with all the mods. So here is the questions, what are the aftermarket parts that could at least minimize the chance of an engine failure? Radiator, oil cooler, CAI, upgraded fluids, oil catch can, maybe even a racing clutch? Anything I missed?

Some 9:1 pistons and a good tuner.

Really all the failures have been blamed on the tune as far as I know. That's the #1 thing.

I second the tune as most important for reliability. You can get a tune with a lot of failsafes built in. Catch can and oil cooler probably not bad ideas.

Is E85 considered more reliable since it is more knock resistant???

1 heat range colder spark plugs would be a recommendation. Those were basically a requirement when I supercharged my 2006 Mustang GT as they help prevent detonation on pump gas.

I thought E85 is not CARB legal? I am no expert but I feel like people usually use e85 with a more aggressive tuning so it might be rougher for the engine?

So what exactly is the difference between tunes? If I just get the supercharger kit with all the maps developed by Perrin or something like that included would there be problems?

People use E85 to operate an engine without much worry of knock. You can make more power at the same boost level than with gasoline due to the increased octane and the E85 cools down the combustion chamber and charge air going into it.

People CAN use E85 to significantly raise the boost level and make bucket loads of power but it is not the only reason.

Running on E85 is considered safer as long as your tuner is competent.

Stock radiator doesn't need changing.

E85 us readily available at many stations all over California.

Racing clutch? Unless you're driving like you're racing on a daily basis, I think a stage 1 will suffice if you have a modest tune or 2 clutch if more aggresive. This way a hardier clutch won't wear so fast compared to stock. I suggest staying away from puck clutches unless you want to hate driving stick. :)

I haven't done much research about racing clutches, what do they do exactly? I know they tend to bite the transmission harder, but what does it mean to driver? RPM drops faster? Easier to stall the car?

Read this from hotrod mag: http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/transmi...clutch-basics/

basically if you're gonna FI your car, you probably will want an upgraded street clutch. A racing clutch will be made of material overkill for your specs unless you're running dragster power. Also, some clutches are pucked, meaning they are not continuous, and is basically an on and off switch. In addition, they usually will pair it with a stiffer pressure plate so you'll need to hit 24 hr fitness and do some calf raises just to press your clutch. I had an evo and made the mistake of putting a 6-puck clutch on it with a heavier pressure plate. made the commute to LA want me to run the car into a ditch and just walk. So yes, most likely harder to drive and easier to stall. So if you want to keep your car reliable, you need not go overboard.

Choose the clutch that is suited to the amount of torque your car will probably make. There is no point in buying a stupidly stiff, multiplated or puck clutch of you are going to run a turbo with a stock engine. Unless you have plans on making big power with a built engine later on.