Installing Headers w/ a jack & stands - Page 2 - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

#maverick# · 01-13-2015, 11:51 AM

As others have said, wobbly long extension, you can buy a good cheap set made by duralast from autozone. I also suggest you invest in a cheaper creeper from harbor freight, makes your life a lot easier .

Phantobe · 01-13-2015, 01:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by #maverick#

As others have said, wobbly long extension, you can buy a good cheap set made by duralast from autozone. I also suggest you invest in a cheaper creeper from harbor freight, makes your life a lot easier .

I use a piece of cardboard lol it helps me keep a lower profile :P

Good info in this thread thanks guys, I'll do the install myself.

MTCRX · 01-13-2015, 01:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frslee

It was easy for me as well. One thing to look out for is the studs attached to header - overpipe connection. Studs are attached on header side. You'll have to wiggle the overpipe and possibly unbolt some rear exhaust bolts to move over pipe, so you can remove OEM header with studs on it. Other than that, it's very easy. Be care on the last bolt, so header doesn't fall on your face!

I wonder what it is with that one bolt to the overpipe. It seems like many people have snapped that off, myself included. It was like it was cross threaded and would not work loose. No worries since I was putting on the new header though.

frslee · 01-13-2015, 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MTCRX

I wonder what it is with that one bolt to the overpipe. It seems like many people have snapped that off, myself included. It was like it was cross threaded and would not work loose. No worries since I was putting on the new header though.

Yeah it doesn't really matter if you're not going back to stock header, but this person may need to put it back for state emission. I ended up removing the midpipe to catback connection area and moved mid-pipe a bit to rear. Good time to workout some arm muscles!

Tenament05 · 01-13-2015, 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phantobe

I use a piece of cardboard lol it helps me keep a lower profile :P

Good info in this thread thanks guys, I'll do the install myself.

never going back to cardboard again after getting a creeper. Just jack your car up higher...

aznatama · 01-13-2015, 02:14 PM

PB Blaster is your friend. ALWAYS have a can of that while working on stock exhaust stuff. Rusted/seized bolts everywhere.

Phantobe · 01-13-2015, 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frslee

Yeah it doesn't really matter if you're not going back to stock header, but this person may need to put it back for state emission. I ended up removing the midpipe to catback connection area and moved mid-pipe a bit to rear. Good time to workout some arm muscles!

I will infact need to try my best to keep the stock header at a usable condition, as I'll have to swap to stock headers for smog.

Honestly that was my main concern when reading thru some diy and installs, I guess if worse comes to worst I'll have to purchase an oem header lol.

01-13-2015, 11:51 AM	#15
#maverick# Senior Member Join Date: May 2014 Drives: 2006 Pontiac GP (SOLD), 2014 FR-S Location: Chicago Posts: 378 Thanks: 296 Thanked 145 Times in 113 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s)	As others have said, wobbly long extension, you can buy a good cheap set made by duralast from autozone. I also suggest you invest in a cheaper creeper from harbor freight, makes your life a lot easier . __________________ "Project cars are like New Years Eve. Endless preparation, hype, a sleepless night of fun, followed promptly by massive headaches and regret." - Anonymous

01-13-2015, 02:14 PM	#20
aznatama Senior Member Join Date: May 2014 Drives: 2014 BRZ MT (Sold); 2006 V70R Location: Fairfax Posts: 873 Thanks: 10 Thanked 186 Times in 150 Posts Mentioned: 8 Post(s)	PB Blaster is your friend. ALWAYS have a can of that while working on stock exhaust stuff. Rusted/seized bolts everywhere. __________________ '14 BRZ LTD MT DGM

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