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| BRZ First-Gen (2012+) — General Topics All discussions about the first-gen Subaru BRZ coupe |
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#29 | |
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#30 |
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I just spoke a guy in a Subaru dealer on the phone. They had the BRZ '15 series blue (in rally blue color). I made an offer for 27k, he said 29k is the lowest they go.. (back in November another Subaru dealer offered me the same car for 28k)
Anyways, i also did ask him about any ideas about a 2016 BRZ series blue this year. He mentioned that its too soon to tell what Subaru is going to do for 2016 BRZs. He does not except a new 2016 BRZ to be release for another 8-9 months. |
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#31 | |
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I feel like 27,350 is the lowest you can get it without some family discounts or whatever. |
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#32 | |
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Lenders want to see that you have a diverse credit history with different types of debt and the ability to pay it all on time. They're not worried you'll instantly hit the credit limit on all of your credit cards because they can see from your credit history that you're unlikely to do that. Also, even if you were right about lenders being worried about a borrower maxing out their credit easily and instantly, the NUMBER of cards doesnt matter. You can have 20 cards and a credit limit of 1k overall lol. I have 4 cards, a total of around 22k credit, and one of my cards makes up more than half of that total. It didn't hurt me during my loan negotiations. What did hurt was the student loans that I haven't started paying off yet (since the repayment schedule hasnt even begun) and my overall short average length of history. EDIT: I got my 2015 BRZ Limited for 25.5k (before the taxes/fees/etc) so 27.5k for a series.blue sounds reasonable. |
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#33 | |
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#34 |
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I believe that is wrong. My credit history is based off of 1 credit card with 300 limit and nothing else except student loans. That means no phone bills or any other bills. Just that one card and loans. The loans that I haven't made a single payment on got my score up to ~740. Don't ask me how because I don't know
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#35 | |
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CASC-OR T.A. Director
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Closing a credit card hurts you short term. They will see you closing a line of credit which triggers an "uh oh, why is he suddenly not wanting to borrow money?" but then they realize over long term that "he didn't need it". Also, some misconceptions here: Paying off loans instantly doesn't build credit. Paying off prescheduled loan payments ON TIME ALL THE TIME does. If I go and borrow $10k and then turn around and pay it back the next day, it doesn't help me as much as borrowing that money and then making my agreed upon instalments on time for the next 12 months. THAT is solid proof that this person will keep his end of the bargain. This is why things like student loans, initial car purchases, etc. are such good credit builders since you are not likely to pay them off instantly.
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#36 |
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DO NOT LEAVE A BALANCE ON CREDIT CARDS!!!
Speaking as someone with excellent credit, you DO NOT want to leave money on the credit cards each month. That's incredibly wasteful, unless you have a 0% card. Companies love lending me money because I pay them back. Credit card companies love me because they collect a couple percent on my purchases.
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#37 | |
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Creditors basically have no idea whether or not I can actually pay those loans on time because there is no history of me paying them off on schedule and consistently. People are usually confused and misinformed about how credit and credit scores work. CreditKarma, Mint, etc have good articles about how to properly build your credit. Ultimately, creditors care about your history. The length, contents, and consistency of it. |
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#38 | |
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You have absolutely no idea what you are talking about do you? Go to any credit building forum and they will tell you the exact opposite of what you are saying to do. Obviously you don't want to open 5 new lines of credit up right before you are going to buy a house, because that lowers the average age of your accounts on your credit report, plus the +5 injuries on your reports, plus the big hit from 5 new accounts under 6 months in age. To the OP. Your chances of approval are highly dependent on what types of credit you've had. The free scores you get are often estimations and not the true scores lenders use when deciding credit. Furthermore, the scoring model used for vehicle loans is completely different than the one used for credit cards or mortgages. Do NOT give out any personal information for credit checks when shopping around for your vehicle. Car dealerships are notorious for running your credit while you are out on the test drive to see what financing they can provide and if you decide to not buy that day you've gotten a inquiry on your report for nothing. My suggestion is to line up your financing with a bank or credit union BEFORE going out to buy and let them know you have your own financing. Saves a lot of hassle throughout the whole process and you'll end up with the least amount of damage to your credit. Last edited by Malt; 01-11-2015 at 08:56 AM. |
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#39 | |
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It might be different here in Oz but if you have say 4 credit cards all with say $5000 limit and you go for a housing loan. The Bank will run the numbers based on you owing the max on all 4 cards and having to make minimum payment on a total of 4 x 5000 = $20000 debt even if you actually pay the cards each month and have next to no debt on them. They want to see you have the capacity to service the max card debt possible plus your new loan, kind of sucks buy can see the banks point of view. |
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#40 | |
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Credit utilization is a significant portion of your score and if you have 4 credit cards with $10,000 limits, only use one and the rest are kept in a safe, and float a $1000 balance on it then your overall utilization is at 2.5% instead of the 10% if you only had one card. This of course is only a good idea if the cards you have have no annual fees and you are not retarded with credit cards and max them all out. The credit system in the US is frankly stupid. If you get in over your head and make some bad choices and stuff goes into collections, there is no "real" incentive to actually pay that debt back. Paying off the debt doesn't remove the late payments or negative marks on the credit report and they stay there for several years. The length of time is dependent on the state that you live in. Some real change is needed or the US is going to face another financial meltdown once the interest rates start going back up and people who have been living off credit suddenly can't afford their skyrocketing credit card payments. Last edited by Malt; 01-11-2015 at 09:28 AM. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Malt For This Useful Post: | steve99 (01-11-2015) |
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#41 | |
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#42 | |
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