2014 86CUP Challenge to NorCal with NCRC

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by AyJay

Published numbers and data sets? You using a canned response script or something?

If the "numbers" you are referring to are the price point of these brake pads and the "datasets" you are referring to is the anecdotal evidence of my own experience plus the 1000's of satisfied drivers who've never touched a set of 999s, then yes, I am leaning all over "numbers and datasets" to support my opinion.

To pacify you: 999s are the hottest shit known to man. I have no "numbers or datasets" to refute that despite what your script says I said.

To pacify me: I will not be buying a set unless the price gets in line with the competition for reasons stated previously.

For the community: Collect opinions/data from several sources, try things, and make up your own mind about how to spend your $.

The end.

Isn't that what they did when they tried multiple pads?

How many pads have you tried?

This is from cleaning out my garage a few years ago from brake pads I was personally trying on my own car.

[ddeflyer]

I am not trying to get into which pad is better or what not, but I would like to add the (retail from essex parts) price of a few other full race and endurance compounds on the stock brakes front and rear:

Ferrodo DS1.11: ~$480
Endless ME22: ~$700
CL RC6: ~$560
AP racing C300: ~$500

So what I am trying to get at is that $600 for a full set isn't out of the norm. Any of the high end full race pads are going to cost a pretty penny. If you burn of some DS2500 pads in a day or two on track then that really might not be saving you much over getting some higher temp pads.

Another option you can do is to run a more aggressive pad in the front and leave the rear with a lighter compound. You will loose some braking capability but save on money.

[RehabJeff86]

Originally Posted by ddeflyer

I am not trying to get into which pad is better or what not, but I would like to add the (retail from essex parts) price of a few other full race and endurance compounds on the stock brakes front and rear:

Ferrodo DS1.11: ~$480
Endless ME22: ~$700
CL RC6: ~$560
AP racing C300: ~$500

So what I am trying to get at is that $600 for a full set isn't out of the norm. Any of the high end full race pads are going to cost a pretty penny. If you burn of some DS2500 pads in a day or two on track then that really might not be saving you much over getting some higher temp pads.

Another option you can do is to run a more aggressive pad in the front and leave the rear with a lighter compound. You will loose some braking capability but save on money.

Well said!!! LoL unfortunately anyone with a single cell brain will never get it..... LoL


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[AyJay]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Isn't that what they did when they tried multiple pads?

How many pads have you tried?

This is from cleaning out my garage a few years ago from brake pads I was personally trying on my own car.

No internet pissing contests required. Agree to disagree.

[ddeflyer]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Isn't that what they did when they tried multiple pads?

How many pads have you tried?

This is from cleaning out my garage a few years ago from brake pads I was personally trying on my own car.

What is a good way to dispose of brake pads? Can they just go in the trash or is there some special handling requirement on disposal? I've got a couple of boxes I'm done with.

Also, have you ever tried the DS1.11 pads in the Essex AP Sprint kit? If so have you noticed that the rivets go really really deep into the material?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by AyJay

No internet pissing contests required. Agree to disagree.

Agree that you made a claim but cannot back it up with any quantified OR qualified evidence?

You're no better than the vendors here that hawk product with nothing but claims.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ddeflyer

What is a good way to dispose of brake pads? Can they just go in the trash or is there some special handling requirement on disposal? I've got a couple of boxes I'm done with.

Also, have you ever tried the DS1.11 pads in the Essex AP Sprint kit? If so have you noticed that the rivets go really really deep into the material?

AFAIK, you just dump em in the trash.

I have, but not extensively. They're an endurance compound similar to the DSUNO; they have a smaller optimal temperature range, and less modulation, but spectacular pad life (endurance!).

I haven't seen the pads worn enough to see the rivets... but typically most pads lose a few mm of material to where the rivets/spikes are.

I personally prefer sprint type pads that have a large temperature range with consistent modulation and mu through the temp range. I can drive on Endurance type pads, but I won't be extracting my best laps out of them. Then again, different pads for a different purpose, and they serve that purpose well.

[BRZChix]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Isn't that what they did when they tried multiple pads?

How many pads have you tried?

This is from cleaning out my garage a few years ago from brake pads I was personally trying on my own car.

those worth a whole year of track right there

[MyRx]

Not to throw a wrench in this discussion, but we need to go commercial. Therefore, 101% complete, all generation 1, working robots, 1985 - 1987 pieces except the re-manufactured box. Even the foam, inserts, and instructions are OE. Took me about on/off a year to piece together.



Ok back to brake pads

Trade for some 999 that'll fit Brembos?? Hehe jk

[ddeflyer]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

AFAIK, you just dump em in the trash.

I have, but not extensively. They're an endurance compound similar to the DSUNO; they have a smaller optimal temperature range, and less modulation, but spectacular pad life (endurance!).

I haven't seen the pads worn enough to see the rivets... but typically most pads lose a few mm of material to where the rivets/spikes are.

I personally prefer sprint type pads that have a large temperature range with consistent modulation and mu through the temp range. I can drive on Endurance type pads, but I won't be extracting my best laps out of them. Then again, different pads for a different purpose, and they serve that purpose well.

The DS1.11s are interesting pads with a really nice flat torque curve and a high mu. That said though, at my last track day at Buttonwillow I was hitting some brake fade which I think was because the rivets were showing through. When I get home tonight I will pull out that box and take some pictures because the rivet height seems crazy high.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ddeflyer

The DS1.11s are interesting pads with a really nice flat torque curve and a high mu. That said though, at my last track day at Buttonwillow I was hitting some brake fade which I think was because the rivets were showing through. When I get home tonight I will pull out that box and take some pictures because the rivet height seems crazy high.

You might just be overheating them; their temperature range is narrower than a sprint race pad.

[ddeflyer]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

You might just be overheating them; their temperature range is narrower than a sprint race pad.

That would be a bummer, I have two new boxes of them!

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ddeflyer

That would be a bummer, I have two new boxes of them!

The manufacturer spec is for MOT of 700C; after that the pads will still work, but the mu will rapidly drop off, and that's the fade you're feeling.

Are you running square pads? Do you have any pyrometer readings that may shed some light? Any changes in brake fluid behavior before/after sessions/days?

The 999 have a manufacturer MOT of 800C, but hold their Mu to over 1000C.

[ddeflyer]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

The manufacturer spec is for MOT of 700C; after that the pads will still work, but the mu will rapidly drop off, and that's the fade you're feeling.

Are you running square pads? Do you have any pyrometer readings that may shed some light? Any changes in brake fluid behavior before/after sessions/days?

The 999 have a manufacturer MOT of 800C, but hold their Mu to over 1000C.

I have some disk paint but I haven't used it for a while. Frankly it was hard to get a good read on it without the specialized tool (forgot the name) to get the exact color.

Brake fluid still seemed to be aging normally though it is RT700 that I had flushed pretty recently.

Yeah, running square pads. That the rears were lasting so long is why I bought two more boxes instead of trying a new compound; I figured I would use up these rears before trying something new.