Lowering Springs

[Captain Snooze]

Originally Posted by cdrazic93

be warned, the lower you go without quality coilovers, i.e. on just springs the worse the ride will be

fixed

[cdrazic93]

Originally Posted by Captain Snooze

fixed

My bad, you better be "slamming that frame" with those AST 5200's. Yo.

[brianhj]

Originally Posted by cdrazic93

be warned, the lower you go without coilovers, i.e. on just springs the worse the ride will be

What if I'm just dropping an inch? On an otherwise stock car would Eibach springs give better or worse ride quality?

[twag4]

Originally Posted by brianhj

What if I'm just dropping an inch? On an otherwise stock car would Eibach springs give better or worse ride quality?

I used Eibach pro line with their sway bars, I can honestly say that the 245/40-14 tires were more noticeable than the springs. I ran them a few days before I could install the springs and sway bars. The ride overall is a little bit firmer, but handling is also better. I had camber bolts that the alignment shop was going to put in, but they didn't as the front camber was zero. I wanted a little negative camber (-1 degree) so I'm going to take it back. I'm also going to get SPL rear lower control arms and get my rear -2 degrees to to -1 degree of camber. I'm very happy with the choice I made. Even the low priced coil overs with sway bars would be over $1100. The Eibach pro plus kit can be had for under $500. It comes with springs, bottoming bumpers, rear dust boots, and sway bars. It is a good deal. I researched quite a bit to discover the ride quality was reported to be better with the Eibachs compared to the hotchkis total vehicle system. It was the other non coil over kit I considered.

[xRavenFRSx]

Originally Posted by Sh944

If you aren't planning on tracking your car, I'd make a hard case for the TRD lowering springs. I put a set on my FR-S for the same reasons you stated and absolutely love the way they look and even more so, the way the car rides now. Its much better than the original springs, imo. Best of all, you don't have to mess with the camber.

I have the TRD lowering springs and love them. My rear camber was showing -1.7 on left and -2.3 right, everything else was good. I had them installed free at a friends shop and one of his guys checked the alignment. I need to get it checked somewhere else to make sure that's right before I buy anything to correct it.

[cdrazic93]

Originally Posted by brianhj

What if I'm just dropping an inch? On an otherwise stock car would Eibach springs give better or worse ride quality?

Usually an inch is questionable if you lose ride quality or not, just shock travel. Meaning youll hit bump stops alot faster from pot holes.

[cycleboy]

I've got RCR Yellows, camber bolts, and SPL LCA's sitting in my garage waiting for me to decide if I'm confident enough to do the swap or if I pay someone to. It doesn't appear that difficult, I just don't want to get into it and find I'm over my head.

I knew I didn't necessarily need the LCA's and bolts, but I didn't want to put the springs on and find something was out of whack and then have to take it all apart and redo it with those parts. So I just held onto the springs until I had the $ to get the LCA's I wanted.

[FRStrent]

I know this thread is old but I need some more advice. I got the Eibach Sportline springs (about 1.5" drop). I also ordered front and rear camber kit.

My question is, will I need a rear toe kit? Just looking at the rear assembly it only makes sense. As the negative camber is corrected it looks like the factory toe arm will start to push the front of the wheel outward (which could be corrected with a toe kit).

Any suggestions on this or first hand experience?

Thank you.

[brandonblt2]

Originally Posted by FRStrent

I know this thread is old but I need some more advice. I got the Eibach Sportline springs (about 1.5" drop). I also ordered front and rear camber kit.

My question is, will I need a rear toe kit? Just looking at the rear assembly it only makes sense. As the negative camber is corrected it looks like the factory toe arm will start to push the front of the wheel outward (which could be corrected with a toe kit).

Any suggestions on this or first hand experience?

Thank you.

Just read the above post about how dropping more than a inch usually results in negative camber requiring LCA's to correct.

[FRStrent]

Originally Posted by brandonblt2

Just read the above post about how dropping more than a inch usually results in negative camber requiring LCA's to correct.

The rear camber kit I bought is the LCA's. The toe arms are completely separate from the LCA's and I am curious if I need to get an adjustable toe arm kit?

[brandonblt2]

Originally Posted by FRStrent

The rear camber kit I bought is the LCA's. The toe arms are completely separate from the LCA's and I am curious if I need to get an adjustable toe arm kit?

Ohh sorry misunderstood the question then. For that I don't have an answer for.

[was385]

Originally Posted by FRStrent

I know this thread is old but I need some more advice. I got the Eibach Sportline springs (about 1.5" drop). I also ordered front and rear camber kit.

My question is, will I need a rear toe kit? Just looking at the rear assembly it only makes sense. As the negative camber is corrected it looks like the factory toe arm will start to push the front of the wheel outward (which could be corrected with a toe kit).

Any suggestions on this or first hand experience?

Thank you.

The car has rear toe adjustment from the factory.

[FRStrent]

Originally Posted by was385

The car has rear toe adjustment from the factory.

Thanks. Did not know that it was adjustable. So I should be good.

[FRStrent]

Does anyone know about how low you can go until you max out the OEM toe arm adjustments? Or does this not happen? I just don't want to get it on the alignment rack and realize that I need to adjust my toe more than the stock toe arms allow. Just thinking ahead is all.

Thanks.