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#71 | |
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[ame="http://vimeo.com/28478078"]BC Racing Coilovers Camber Adjustment on Vimeo[/ame] |
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#72 |
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Yeah mine are pre much the same as that
As far as lowering the car is concerned you're gonna be limited by your tyre size, a wider tyre means the wall pokes out more so with 235's you'll never get quite as low as i can with 225's, especially considering that without adjustable LCA's the only way to achieve a decent amount of rear camber is to lower the car so it's abit of a catch-22
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#73 | |
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#74 | |
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Haha yeah you don't really appreciate a good smooth road until you drive a car like this, same problems here, potholes, dips in the road, speed bumps and about 1 out of every 3 driveways become no-go zones, the price we pay for that perfect stance... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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#75 | |
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#76 | |
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I'm not sure if hub centric rings would help, XXR wheel fitment is usually pretty tight, don't have them on mine and I've been waaay over 80mph with the new wheels without a problem it could be something as simple as a wheel out of balance, best thing to do is take wheels off, check fitment as you loosen them, check each rim for missing counterweights, then once the wheels off check all bolts that were loosened to fit your coils, sway-bar links, top and bottom coil mounts etc, chuck the wheels back on and go for a spin, if it's still there then you'll have to go to a good wheel/suspension shop (maaaaybe not the last one you went to loool) and get them to check it out, could just need a wheel alignment (which is actually recommended after coil-over installation anyway) hows it all going anyway? any rub issues anymore? |
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#77 | |
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Tire was going up and down and side to side and was new. Swapped for another and vibrations stopped.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to nzer For This Useful Post: | lukey86 (12-11-2014) |
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#78 | |
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1. Jack car up and out on axle stands and make sure very secure 2. Start car and put in first. 3. Leave car idling (no more - don't rev it!) 4. Rear wheels will spin slowly so you can visually see if and issues. 5. If no issues, turn car off and swap front wheels onto back 6. Repeat steps 2-4 for these two wheels This may at least isolate which wheel/tire is the issue. There's a youtube clip of the above process but can't find it and it's now 10.54pm here in New Zealand so I'm going to bed!
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http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...760#post582760 Last edited by nzer; 12-12-2014 at 06:30 AM. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to nzer For This Useful Post: | Celigts (12-13-2014) |
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#79 |
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any fender mods for 18x9.75? ill be getting xxr 530 with 8.75 in front and 9.75 in rear if all goes well
im on sportlines curretly -_- or should i stick to 8.75 all around?
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#80 | |
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I pulled my guards about 10mm, it still scrubs a little on the point where the rear bar meets the body. Adjustable LCA's and PBM's would be handy though, a tiny little bit more camber would stop the scrubbing |
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#81 | |
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#82 |
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Its hard to make aggressive wheels fit without fully adjustable coil-overs, my setup is max low, about 3 inches lower than standard which, without adjustable LCA's, is the only way to acheive enough natural camber to tuck these wheels in. Front camber plates are maxed too
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#83 | |
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#84 |
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Unfortunately stance is all $$$$...Hellaflush is more like Hellabroke lol
Plus the major downside of my setup is the fact that having fun on bumpy backroads is over. Scrubbing, hitting the bump stops, exhaust being smashed into the road. Low and slow is now the only way to go. Not that I'm trying to deter you but it's advice that I never had when deciding to go with the stance option. At the end of the day it's all about whether you prefer looks or performance |
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