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| Cosmetic Modification (Interior/Exterior/Lighting) Discussions about cosmetic mods. |
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#1 |
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Front wheel clearance.
Hi everyone,
As I have my body shell pretty much stripped at the front right now, I thought I would ask if I need to carry out the mod to shorten the front of the sill/rocker panel where it goes into the back of the front wheel well? I've read some threads where people have suffered front wheel clearance issues when going for wide body kits and filling those big arches out with some huge rubber. Is this mod a "Must do" on the FRS if you plan big wheels up front? Is there any where else that needs cutting for clearance up front?
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Yes. I had to do it on mine just for the 30mm Todoroki fenders and I clear it now by maybe 10-15mm.
I have 18x9.5 +16 up front w/ 265-35s Shortening it down is going to be in your best interest to keep from hitting that area as you turn the wheels.
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#3 | |
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Quote:
I haven't done it yet, but I plan to drill out the spot welds to get the front facing panel out first, then remove around 25mm of the box section all round. I was then thinking I could put the end plate back in and weld it, I may even swap sides with the forward facing panel and weld it in backwards for a more professional look? Would there be any interest in a "how to" feature when I do it?
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So, this is the area I'm talking about, It just gets in the way of big wheels apparently??
![]() I plan to get rid of the extension by first removing the end plate, so the spot welds need to be drilled out.. ![]() And the end plates removed from both sides of the car.. ![]() After shortening the extensions down, I plan to insert the left endplate into the right hole, but backwards, then I can achieve a tidy stitch weld all round the aperture. Note in this pic, the extensions are not yet shortened.. ![]() I have a question, how much do I remove from the extension? Has anyone here done this and have pics of the job they did? I'm doing this now while the car is apart, it will be a Rocket Bunny in the near future..
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I just cut down flush to the end plate and mine is fine. I still have over an inch of clearance. That's with the todoroki fenders.
Not sure if you'll need to go further with the RB fenders since they're wider.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to TylerLieberman For This Useful Post: | Nigelr32 (01-03-2015) |
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#6 | |
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Quote:
That's just the kind of reply I was looking for. If you have time, I'd love to see a picture of your job. I REALLY don't want to do this twice!!
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Here is @JordanWho pictures of when he cut his caps for Todoroki fenders. He ended up cutting his off and welding a cap similar to what you plan. He also illustrated (see his post refencing to PLAN A) In which you can just trim the excess off.
Note: If your going to weld on the caps weld them solid. You can stich weld them or spot weld the caps like factory but, your inviting moisture into a critical area. You can counter this with some factory seamsealer but, even that has limits. Best to completely weld it solid and then restore corrosion protection/paint to keep your metal happy. Don't forget to spray the inside/backs of the weld. The factory cap has a nice bit hold/rubber seal that is a perfect access hole. http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...9&postcount=80
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#8 |
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Thanks very much Kiske. I looked through Jordans build log the other day, and totally missed that bit.
Thanks for the link. As for corrosion protection, I intend to paint the inside of the box section and the back of the closing panel with weld thru primer. As you say, it will be best to weld all round as our Testing laws over here in the UK state that any "repair" must be continuously welded all round. I will then run some wax around the inside behind the closing panel through the hole you mention. Thanks again Buddy!!
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