Floor Jack suggestion?

[Itzed]

I usually do all my own work on my cars, and I've only jacked up the BRZ once so far, just to change over to winter wheels/tires. I noticed when I did it that the flange underneath where you jack it is not particularly strong, and was already bending a little. I use a standard two ton floor jack. I've heard of the hockey puck trick where you cut a groove for the flange in the hockey puck and put it on top of the jack, but does anyone know of a good floor Jack that already has that buit into it so it won't bend the underbody flange?

[DAEMANO]

Bought this and love it.
http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?...umber=35-70000

[slicktop]

This is the one I have. It's able to reach any of the jack points and my car was fairly low to the ground. It's expensive and heavy but damn if it isn't the best jack I've used.

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Arcan-XL2T-Black-Profile-Service/dp/B007G83T16/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1419176738&sr= 1-4&keywords=arcan+floor+jack"]Amazon.com: Arcan XL2T Black Low Profile Steel Service Jack - 2 Ton Capacity: Automotive[/ame]

[Travisty75]

Originally Posted by slicktop

This is the one I have. It's able to reach any of the jack points and my car was fairly low to the ground. It's expensive and heavy but damn if it isn't the best jack I've used.

Amazon.com: Arcan XL2T Black Low Profile Steel Service Jack - 2 Ton Capacity: Automotive

Another option is this one:

Harbor Freight 2 Ton, Low Profile and Long Reach

It's basically what @slicktop has. I love using it, and it can reach everything on the car, even when I was lowered substantially. This would allow you to jack up on the front at the radiator core support, and the rear differential. Both of those are better pick up points than the factory pinch welded frame rails.

Invest in a good set of jack stands and just cover them with some rags that have been folded over a couple times, and always use the appropriate pinch weld location to support the car.

This is a great thread to touch on all the correct ways of doing things for this chassis:
GrimmSpeed Guide to Safely Jacking

[Whatabouteggs]

Originally Posted by Travisty75

Another option is this one:

Harbor Freight 2 Ton, Low Profile and Long Reach

It's basically what @slicktop has. I love using it, and it can reach everything on the car, even when I was lowered substantially. This would allow you to jack up on the front at the radiator core support, and the rear differential. Both of those are better pick up points than the factory pinch welded frame rails.

Invest in a good set of jack stands and just cover them with some rags that have been folded over a couple times, and always use the appropriate pinch weld location to support the car.

This is a great thread to touch on all the correct ways of doing things for this chassis:
GrimmSpeed Guide to Safely Jacking

I bought the 1.5 ton low profile one on sale ($60) and I am frankly amazed with it. It lifted my dad's silverado without any problems. Just be sure to buy new fluid and make sure it's topped off, they tend to underfill them from the factory and that's where the bad reviews are coming from. Also DON'T TRUST A JACK. Get some jack stands if you're sticking your head under there. I'm pretty impressed with HF's $20 3 ton stands too, though their 6 ton stands are amazing for the price as well, they're often on sale for $40/pair. Not sure i'd trust the aluminum ones though...

http://www.harborfreight.com/15-ton-...ump-60569.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-s...nds-61196.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-ton-s...nds-61197.html

[aznatama]

that flange is for the stock jack, NOT for a floor jack w/ flat pads. that's why it's bending.

Harbor Freight aluminum 1.5ton jack works great. We used one of those as a shop jack. Wore out in a year or so (shop use mind you), but cheap enough to just replace.