CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Agent 86

I have a question that's probably been asked somewhere in these 100 pages…

I have a 2014 BRZ that I have had for a little over 2 months now. I don't race or autocross, but I do enjoy and appreciate having a car that is responsive and handles well with a reasonable level of ride comfort.

The factory setup meets my needs, but I would like to lower my car a little (for looks) and install a better looking set of wheels (17" or 18").

What can you recommend for my situation? There must be a simple path I can take.

I was considering the RCE Yellow springs, but then I see discussion about adjusting camber, installing crash bolts, bushings and lower control arms and i become paralyzed.

Please provide some suggestions.

3 ways to go:

1. Just put the springs on and get an alignment.
2. Do the springs and the factory camber bolt for the front. It's less than 10 bucks if I recall and will let you get a little more camber up front without making your tires faster.
3. Do the springs, camber bolt, and rear lower control arms (LCAs). This will help everything be "perfect."

You'd be just fine with option 1 but at the very least I'd recommend option 2. The bolt is dirt cheap and makes a nice difference in handling. Adding the rear lower control arms in option 3 helps you get rid of a little rear negative camber and make sure everything is nice and even. But it's not 100% necessary.

Most vendors that sell our parts should be able to help you out with the above options. We provide alignment recommendations as well so you won't be lost.

- Andy

[swarb]

Originally Posted by evil_1998

Hi, I have a set of coilovers but unsure of spring rate.

On the springs they are marked:

160-8.5 (front)
180-07 (rear)

Can someone please tell me the spring rate in kg's?

Thanks

The numbers could just be part numbers. Brand?
Measure the length of the spring and go from there. If the numbers mean something, they are most likely 6/7inch springs and 8.5/7kg rate.

[Panman]

@Racecomp Engineering @CSG_mike I've now got B6 with STI Pink springs, Raceseng Camber Tops, LCAs, -2 camber front, -1 rear, 0 toe all the way round Whiteline diff and outrigger bushings. Track 2xmonth, canyon carving/fast road 1 week, what bushings would you recommend for that final tighten up?

[Agent 86]

Thanks Andy. I will go with option 2.

Do you have any vendors in Maryland I can pick up the springs from locally? Can you recommend any local shops (PM if necessary). I think i found your alignment recommendations.

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

3 ways to go:

1. Just put the springs on and get an alignment.
2. Do the springs and the factory camber bolt for the front. It's less than 10 bucks if I recall and will let you get a little more camber up front without making your tires faster.
3. Do the springs, camber bolt, and rear lower control arms (LCAs). This will help everything be "perfect."

You'd be just fine with option 1 but at the very least I'd recommend option 2. The bolt is dirt cheap and makes a nice difference in handling. Adding the rear lower control arms in option 3 helps you get rid of a little rear negative camber and make sure everything is nice and even. But it's not 100% necessary.

Most vendors that sell our parts should be able to help you out with the above options. We provide alignment recommendations as well so you won't be lost.

- Andy

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Agent 86

Thanks Andy. I will go with option 2.

Do you have any vendors in Maryland I can pick up the springs from locally? Can you recommend any local shops (PM if necessary). I think i found your alignment recommendations.

Unfortunately we are out of stock.

Ft86speedfactory isn't in MD but should have some in stock and then you won't have to pay tax.

- Andy

[PNW FRS]

Did two "back road" sessions to get tires heated up and from both sessions, the front right tire was 4.0-4.5 degrees F hotter than the other corners.
What us your take on this result?

Originally Posted by bimmer635csi

Tire temps will tell you what you need. Invest in a simple pyrometer to get started. You don't need one with ultra-2000-memories, just a simple instantaneous temp reader and write it down on a sheet of paper. Analyze the temps, then adjust as needed.

[bimmer635csi]

Originally Posted by PNW FRS

Did two "back road" sessions to get tires heated up and from both sessions, the front right tire was 4.0-4.5 degrees F hotter than the other corners.
What us your take on this result?

You were on a counter-clockwise course.


The idea behind tire temps is to see if the tire is a consistent temperature across the tread. If it is hot in the center, you have too much pressure. If it is hot on the outer shoulder, you need more negative camber and/or less toe-in.


I should have been more specific I guess. It is worth a google for "race tire temperature adjustment" or some such thing to get more details.

[PNW FRS]

Originally Posted by bimmer635csi

You were on a counter-clockwise course.

The idea behind tire temps is to see if the tire is a consistent temperature across the tread. If it is hot in the center, you have too much pressure. If it is hot on the outer shoulder, you need more negative camber and/or less toe-in.

I should have been more specific I guess. It is worth a google for "race tire temperature adjustment" or some such thing to get more details.

Ahhh... OK.. across the tread... will see what I can determine the next time I do a test. I did do some reading on "the net" about temp differentials... so with all this in mind.. I should be able to get a sense of what might need to be further fine-tuned. Thx!!

[Panman]

Thoughts on this alignment?

[Panman]

Whoops, should have said, Raceseng Camber tops, Rear LCAs, STI Pink springs and B6s

[ja1217]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Yes, 2.5 is good.

With those rates I would probably go with 7 inch springs BUT you may want to check the amount of bump travel in your shocks and then look up the specs on the springs to see if they have at least that much.

The Ohlins are a little tricky since they can't lower the car much.

- Andy

So my revalved dampers should be coming back later this week and I've gotten my 7 inch Hyperco springs already. My next question is how exactly should I install these springs? The 7" springs are about 0.8" shorter than the 200mm springs that they are replacing. I assume I want to adjust the spring preload so that the springs are snug when the dampers aren't compressed at all and then adjust the ride height separately.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Panman

Thoughts on this alignment?

It's not a lot of rear camber (yes I realize that's degrees minutes). With -3 up front you might be lacking in rear grip. Might be okay for auto-x and it might be a heck of a lot of fun. But for the track I'd add some rear camber.

- Andy

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by ja1217

So my revalved dampers should be coming back later this week and I've gotten my 7 inch Hyperco springs already. My next question is how exactly should I install these springs? The 7" springs are about 0.8" shorter than the 200mm springs that they are replacing. I assume I want to adjust the spring preload so that the springs are snug when the dampers aren't compressed at all and then adjust the ride height separately.

Look at the specs on the spring via Hyperco's website and make sure they're total available travel is more than the amount of bump travel that you end up with (so that the spring doesn't fully bind before the shock). You'll probably be okay just going with minimal preload but it's good to check. It may take some trial and error.

- Andy

[Panman]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

It's not a lot of rear camber (yes I realize that's degrees minutes). With -3 up front you might be lacking in rear grip. Might be okay for auto-x and it might be a heck of a lot of fun. But for the track I'd add some rear camber.

- Andy

Cool will dial in another degree - got some new rack bushes to go in, so will need to align after that, The rear is a little more skittish with the current settings. Thanks for the advice.