CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[unsurety]

I keep hearing both sides as far as whether or not toe arms are needed... seems like it varies by how much camber you have and how low you go.

Plan is to lower 1.5" and run 1.5-1.8 negative camber in the rear. RCE T2s with SPC LCAs. Will the stock eccentric toe adjustment allow me to get 0 toe, or at least very minimal toe in?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by PNW FRS

Background: Added struts/coilovers (Speed by Design Pro Street). Asked a question earlier in this post re: spring bind (wind) and ended up buying some Torrington Bearings (Fortune-Auto) for the front... and no more spring bind(wind). Huzzah!

However, the Torrington Bearings haven't eliminated some erratic occurrences -- coming from front-right (best as I can discern...) -- that sounds almost like a metal-on-metal "crunching" noise. I've gone through the setup and best as I can tell, everything on the strut is buttoned down.... top nut, lock rings, bolts tight, etc. Just got back from a 60 mile drive that I knew would provide a good mix of smooth asphalt, mild to medium bumpy asphalt, to "Oh yeah.. that's rough..." asphalt.


The good news... at speed (e.g., 50+ on smooth asphalt or cement), everything runs nice... nothing odd sounding. If I throw in some quick right-left-right-left etc. maneuvers.. there will be a slight crunching sound (very mild... as if the weight shift is making something move)


Then... straight-line path... transitioning to mild-to-medium or rough pavement... the first sound of the "crunch" comes through loud and clear... and most times, is followed by continuous "crunching" until the car comes to a stop. Same in a parking lot...driving slow... smooth asphalt... no noise.. but go over a speed bump (slowly) and the compression and release of that brings on the "crunch."


And far as I can tell, it is only coming from the front-right of the car. (I know that noise can emanating elsewhere, but it's pretty loud and clear from the front-right.


Pretty sure that spring pre-load is where it should be. All four corners are set the same... there is no noise coming from the other 3 corners.


Looking for suggestion for where to start the next round of troubleshooting... go back to the alignment shop and see if maybe "something" didn't get buttoned down after the alignment (cuz it kind of sounds like "knuckle-crunching" when it's at its worst. Or.. is the culprit likely the strut itself (which if so... how best to phrase the question to the vendor since the strut is still under warranty.

Thanks in advance for any additional insights....


-

Do you have any heim joints in your suspension setup?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by unsurety

I keep hearing both sides as far as whether or not toe arms are needed... seems like it varies by how much camber you have and how low you go.

Plan is to lower 1.5" and run 1.5-1.8 negative camber in the rear. RCE T2s with SPC LCAs. Will the stock eccentric toe adjustment allow me to get 0 toe, or at least very minimal toe in?

It's hit or miss, as every car is slightly different. Try it, and if you can't get to the desired toe, then get aftermarket arms.

[PNW FRS]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Do you have any heim joints in your suspension setup?

I don't think so... stock suspension except for the addition of the coil overs - which did come with camber plates and replacement (shorter) end links for connection to sway bar.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by PNW FRS

I don't think so... stock suspension except for the addition of the coil overs - which did come with camber plates and replacement (shorter) end links for connection to sway bar.

Make sure the sways arent overextended at normal driving height. THis will depend on how dropped you are, and the position of the sway m ount on the shock body.

Also make sure your front subframe is centered...

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by yomny

Are the sports-i coil overs from rs-r really that much better than the competitor like fortune auto, bc racing or any other kit around the $1800 tag? If so what makes it bette, valving?
@CSG Mike @Racecomp Engineering

I don't have much first hand experience with the RSR coilovers. It would be cool to see a shock dyno plot of them.

- Andy

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by PNW FRS

Background: Added struts/coilovers (Speed by Design Pro Street). Asked a question earlier in this post re: spring bind (wind) and ended up buying some Torrington Bearings (Fortune-Auto) for the front... and no more spring bind(wind). Huzzah!

However, the Torrington Bearings haven't eliminated some erratic occurrences -- coming from front-right (best as I can discern...) -- that sounds almost like a metal-on-metal "crunching" noise. I've gone through the setup and best as I can tell, everything on the strut is buttoned down.... top nut, lock rings, bolts tight, etc. Just got back from a 60 mile drive that I knew would provide a good mix of smooth asphalt, mild to medium bumpy asphalt, to "Oh yeah.. that's rough..." asphalt.


The good news... at speed (e.g., 50+ on smooth asphalt or cement), everything runs nice... nothing odd sounding. If I throw in some quick right-left-right-left etc. maneuvers.. there will be a slight crunching sound (very mild... as if the weight shift is making something move)


Then... straight-line path... transitioning to mild-to-medium or rough pavement... the first sound of the "crunch" comes through loud and clear... and most times, is followed by continuous "crunching" until the car comes to a stop. Same in a parking lot...driving slow... smooth asphalt... no noise.. but go over a speed bump (slowly) and the compression and release of that brings on the "crunch."


And far as I can tell, it is only coming from the front-right of the car. (I know that noise can emanating elsewhere, but it's pretty loud and clear from the front-right.


Pretty sure that spring pre-load is where it should be. All four corners are set the same... there is no noise coming from the other 3 corners.


Looking for suggestion for where to start the next round of troubleshooting... go back to the alignment shop and see if maybe "something" didn't get buttoned down after the alignment (cuz it kind of sounds like "knuckle-crunching" when it's at its worst. Or.. is the culprit likely the strut itself (which if so... how best to phrase the question to the vendor since the strut is still under warranty.

Thanks in advance for any additional insights....


-

Make sure your front right endlink is tight.

- Andy

[PNW FRS]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Make sure your front right endlink is tight.

- Andy

Ok - will check that again.

Thx

[ja1217]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Hyperco, Swift, Eibach.

- Andy

From what I can tell, Hyperco and Swift only offer springs with length in inch length increments whereas the springs that come with the Ohlins are 200mm (~7.8 inches). I'm not looking to lower or raise the car any more than it already is, so would I just be better off going with the Eibachs as they do have 200mm springs as opposed to trying to make a 7 or 8 inch spring work?

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by ja1217

From what I can tell, Hyperco and Swift only offer springs with length in inch length increments whereas the springs that come with the Ohlins are 200mm (~7.8 inches). I'm not looking to lower or raise the car any more than it already is, so would I just be better off going with the Eibachs as they do have 200mm springs as opposed to trying to make a 7 or 8 inch spring work?

With a stiffer springs you may want something shorter anyway. But Eibach are fine too.

- Andy

[ja1217]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

With a stiffer springs you may want something shorter anyway. But Eibach are fine too.

- Andy

So going to a 7inch spring would still be ok? This is all new territory for me, but at first glance going from a 7.8 inch to 7 inch seemed like a fairly big change.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Do you know what spring rate you're going with?

- Andy

[ja1217]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Do you know what spring rate you're going with?

- Andy

I was planning on following your suggestion of 12k front 14k rear

Also, one more thing, I'm having trouble locating Hyperco springs with ID 65mm. Would using ID 2.5 inch springs work?

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by ja1217

I was planning on following your suggestion of 12k front 14k rear

Also, one more thing, I'm having trouble locating Hyperco springs with ID 65mm. Would using ID 2.5 inch springs work?

Yes, 2.5 is good.

With those rates I would probably go with 7 inch springs BUT you may want to check the amount of bump travel in your shocks and then look up the specs on the springs to see if they have at least that much.

The Ohlins are a little tricky since they can't lower the car much.

- Andy