2014-2015 Winter Tire & Wheel Discussion

[Elkton86er]

Originally Posted by Shark_Bait88

Because I got wheels w/ tires and TPMS for a good deal, and they are going to serve as both winter and track wheels.

Did the same thing myself. Mounted Blizzak LM-32s - really like the dry/wet performance so far.

Personally I think the stock wheels are very cool. I like the way the polished double spokes contrast with the dark gray singles, and I like the way that up close the wheels look like a complex of light-and-dark spokes but from a distance the wheels look like a circular pattern of geometric shiny shapes - almost a "mag" look.

[Shark_Bait88]

Originally Posted by Elkton86er

Did the same thing myself. Mounted Blizzak LM-32s - really like the dry/wet performance so far.

Personally I think the stock wheels are very cool. I like the way the polished double spokes contrast with the dark gray singles, and I like the way that up close the wheels look like a complex of light-and-dark spokes but from a distance the wheels look like a circular pattern of geometric shiny shapes - almost a "mag" look.

I'm not completely smitten with the stock wheels, but I don't dislike them either. I will likely plastidip the winter/track set white to keep them from getting too wrecked. haha

[Thrilled]

Originally Posted by Thrilled

The Consumer Reports reviews are usually spot on and it looks like the did it in the correct range of conditions. The top of their list for the twins excludes the popular Michelin Alpin since that model needs 18" wheels (unless you want to buy more rims). Based on their list and this VERY HELPFUL thread (among other threads on this site), it appears that the best choices for all winter conditions are:

1. Nokian WRG3 91V
2. Pireelli Soltozero Winter 240 Series II
3. Dunlop SP Winter Sport 4D

Everything else I am reading here and online puts all of the other models discussed squarely in a "good for snow" or "good for ice" category. But, as some have point out, none can be optimized for both snow and ice.

Here in the NE, friends buy light duty "strap on" chains that use nylon cinch straps that pass through the rims. This helps for getting out of deep snow and back onto plowed roads. So, it seems that in the Phila area (me) it's probably a better gamble on "all conditions" or "all season" and get the strap on chains for emergencies.

FWIW, I survived our worst recent winter on record with the stock Primacy's last year. It was a great learning curve. They do OK on plowed surfaces if you are OK driving like a kid learning to ice skate. Otherwise, I found it's worth taking a coffee break and wait for the plows to come by.

Bonus link from Consumer Reports on the stunning results they got on a stock car with upgraded summer sneakers. Broke some of their safety maneuvering records:

http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/n...ance/index.htm

We had a little bit of slushy stuff the day they went on last week. They certainly feel more stable overall. Best news is that they were far less expensive at STS than the Nokia WRG3 All Seasons.

In a straight line, they will break traction if over powered, but remain pushing forward. To do this, though I had to really over power them (in slush). We also had cold rain (about 40F) that day and it would break traction a little early in a straight line (from a stop), but did not slide in the rear.

That's comforting compared to how the stock tires did last winter - they would break traction in a straight line in snow and slush then would slip usually right given the crown on most roads.

In turns, the new tires seem to hold nicely so long as throttle management is smooth and appropriate power to complete the turn. Didn't try much over-powering in turns or braking. Need to wait to practice in a larger open space.

Here in the upper Mid-Atlantic, our winter conditions vary a lot from the occasional blizzard to cold rain. We often get icing and mixed sleet/snow conditions. From my research, the Nokian R2 rated best for ice and snow whereas most winter tires seem to excel at one or the other, not both. Apparently no winter tire excels at all winter conditions. It turns out it's best to gravitate toward the conditions you encounter the most.

As for dry roads, they make the handling feel a little more like a regular car. Steering inputs feel dampened, the ride feels notably softer - particularly on rough surfaces. Road noise is lower in the mid-frequency bands which is easier on the ears. There is a little bit of audible low-frequency hum from the knobby type tread - but nothing like a jeep or SUV.

Thanks everyone who has posted lots of good technical info about winter tires. Never thought this would be such a complex decision - but I had never bought winter tires for anything before.

[cjd]

Hakki R2's are awesome... in the snow. And they're better than many in dry/wet for a tire so good in the snow. You'll enjoy them.

The WRG3's I got my wife are amazing. Worth the cost. Really good feedback (something lacking in many snow tires) and very stable grip. I didn't get to drive them in bad conditions, but she's reported back they were very good in freezing rain - a coupe times they slipped and between the tires and (I assume) the traction control in her '06 Prius, the slip was controlled very quickly. Roadways were definitely iced over in spots - mostly black ice too - I had a treacherous walk home that evening!

I got Sottozero 3's (couldn't find wheels I wanted locally, was too lazy to order wheels then go get the WRG3's for myself since I had to drive an hour to the shope that could actually get the WRG3) and they're quite nice. Got some time on dry, wet, and even snow-covered pavement and while I think they're not as good as the WRG3 for feedback (though different cars...) the feel is still very good - not surprising since they're labeled a "high performance" winter tire. That probably means the tires are less likely to be as good in deep snow, etc. In our case, that's ideal - we're in the city and will simply walk/take public transit if it's ugly out - and I never drive to get to work - wasn't even sure if I should bother with winters.

There was one spot at a gas station in my Thanksgiving day drive northward where I saw cars having a tough time exiting - snow packed down and steep enough I thought I might scrape. Climbed right over as if the snow weren't there - really surprised me given the road feel on the highway, which was good.

C

[mike7792]

I have a whiteout FRS on silver steelies running General Altimax Arctic 205/55/16

car stands out with silver wheels instead of the usual black steelies.
It snowed last night and it handled really well.

[NeilAngelo]

Looking to buy 205/55/R16 Bridgestone Bilzzak WS70 with steelies wondering if i need to purchase anything because of the TPMS or does the dealer change the settings upon install

thanks guys for the help

[HunterGreene]

Originally Posted by NeilAngelo

Looking to buy 205/55/R16 Bridgestone Bilzzak WS70 with steelies wondering if i need to purchase anything because of the TPMS or does the dealer change the settings upon install

thanks guys for the help

TPMS sensors should stay on your stock wheels, unless you are replacing them permanently with the steelies. A second set of TPMS sensors is doable, but not really worth it. Just ignore the idiot light and keep track of your pressure the old fashioned way

[bluesman]

TPMS systems are far from perfect anyway - I put my snows on 2 weeks ago, and the light just came on over the weekend. On my wife's QX50, the light stayed out for 3 days after I put the snows on. And when I had a flat on my FR-S, I felt the tire go down and pulled over to the curb about a minute before the light went on. So you need to walk around the car and look at all 4 tires every day anyway and check your pressures from time to time to make sure you don't have a slow leak. It's not just ours - the same thing happened regularly on my 350Z and my wife's FX35 too.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by HunterGreene

TPMS sensors should stay on your stock wheels, unless you are replacing them permanently with the steelies. A second set of TPMS sensors is doable, but not really worth it. Just ignore the idiot light and keep track of your pressure the old fashioned way

Tried to get the dealer to disable the sensor receivers while running steelies but they can not do it by law here.
At least the FRS light is not all that intrusive and easy to ignore.
The info center on my wife's RVR is huge and constantly flashing in all it's technoclolour glory!

[Jertronic]

Help me with this mini decision that faces me. I had an oil change at the dealer yesterday. Instead of the covered tire rotation under Toyota care I had them put on my winter tire set up mich xi3's on steelies. Was pleased that the dealer was willing to do this for me. The tech almost did everything exactly right except he used my OEM chrome lug nuts on the steelies instead of the generic nuts which where on the dashboard In a padded envelope. I think I want to switch to the generic nuts but question is do I have to lift the car or can I swap the nuts while car is sitting on pavement?


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[jarviz]

Originally Posted by ray7792

I survived last year's (worst winter in 5+ years) winter by having a set of Dunlop's Winter Maxx on stock wheels. Keep in mind this is coming from a NJ/NY area driver.

I believe dunlop came out with Winter Maxx within 2-3 years ago, maybe even 1.5ish years ago so shouldn't have to worry about that part.

Pros:
-Very good in the snow/ice never once did I panic due to loss of control or unpredictable movements. No problems braking or going up very steep and long hills. Stopping in the middle and starting on a hill covered in snow - almost no issue, 1 or 2 seconds to find traction maybe.

-Cheap, not dirt cheap but very reasonable price for 205/17

-Road noise isn't as bad as some other winter tires, it is there but not as bad haha

-Milage...I saw a very very slight decrease but that could be due to any number of reasons.

-Durability, can't say for certain yet, but I will say this, I drove a lot last winter and also had a bunch of fun having less grip. Life on the tires are still wonderful.

-feedback, tires were predictable in snow/ice/dry and overall gave off a good amount of information. Not applicable to when it rained though.

CONS:

-Not so great when it is dry or raining. Still better than the stock summers in below 35 F haha...not much of a comparison there.

-Really...be careful in the rain with these. Tires had very little feedback in the rain and I felt like the car was floating whenever I turned in the rain with these lol Not a fun experience to have often.

-Lose traction every time just by suddenly going WOT in a straightline at 4-5k rpm in 2nd, not terribly but man...


Drive safely, use common sense, and the winter maxx's will do their job.

TLR Great newish tires by Dunlop if shopping on a budget. Will do a great job and more in Snow/Ice. Be extra careful in rain and drive normally in dry.

Can anybody else comment on the dunlop maxx's for dry/wet driving. I'm NYC si I'm probably gonna see that 98% of the winter minus a couple of snowstorms.

[00NissanNinja]

Originally Posted by Jertronic

Help me with this mini decision that faces me. I had an oil change at the dealer yesterday. Instead of the covered tire rotation under Toyota care I had them put on my winter tire set up mich xi3's on steelies. Was pleased that the dealer was willing to do this for me. The tech almost did everything exactly right except he used my OEM chrome lug nuts on the steelies instead of the generic nuts which where on the dashboard In a padded envelope. I think I want to switch to the generic nuts but question is do I have to lift the car or can I swap the nuts while car is sitting on pavement?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I've seen mixed opinions on this, but I have done it one at a time on the ground without issue(going in the star pattern one at a time). The conical seat of the lugs will help keep everything in line when tightened. But typically I just lift up one wheel at a time with the jack and do them all.

[phobos512]

Originally Posted by 00NissanNinja

I've seen mixed opinions on this, but I have done it one at a time on the ground without issue(going in the star pattern one at a time). The conical seat of the lugs will help keep everything in line when tightened. But typically I just lift up one wheel at a time with the jack and do them all.

You don't need to jack up wheels to change lug nuts. Change them one at a time and torque them fully before moving onto the next lug. It'll be fine.

[jwoodland]

Originally Posted by Jertronic

Help me with this mini decision that faces me. I had an oil change at the dealer yesterday. Instead of the covered tire rotation under Toyota care I had them put on my winter tire set up mich xi3's on steelies. Was pleased that the dealer was willing to do this for me. The tech almost did everything exactly right except he used my OEM chrome lug nuts on the steelies instead of the generic nuts which where on the dashboard In a padded envelope. I think I want to switch to the generic nuts but question is do I have to lift the car or can I swap the nuts while car is sitting on pavement?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Can you use the OEM lug nuts or do the steelies require the ones that Tire Rack sent along?