OpenFlash Tablet: OTS v2.0 Beta (132 new maps, 12 new XMLs) Available for Download

[Target70]

I just finished installing the OFH. Flashed stg 2 uel 93oct A01C V 2.0 Beta. I read that you have to go back and re-torque the header bolts in a week so I figured I'd leave the underpanels off till then. I started it up, let it idle about 6 min. Did the 20 petal pushes with car on but not started. The car was a little rough at idle so I took it for an easy drive to get it to do some learning. Steve has pointed out that we need to get some higher rpms with constant non wot throttle, so I got on the interstate. I kept it at around 10-15% throttle, and ran it up to about 6k in each gear, I was pretty high in 3rd or 4th till I hit about 70mph when I heard KKKKK. POP POP KKKKKKK POPPOPPOP KKKKK.. etc. I threw it in to neutral, and eventually it settled down. At this point I am scared shitless, but the engine seems to be running alright, so I limp it to a turn off and a gas station so I could take a look. Nothing looks out of the ordinary under the hood, except for the header wrap is still burning in. I decide to go back out and try it again with a data log, I gently work it back up to higher rpms, and everything seems fine, then the noise again, I let off throttle, get to a place to stop, end my data log: http://datazap.me/u/target70/stage-2...p?log=0&data=1
I decide to head home, and keep it low rpms, I get back up to about 65mph and the noise starts again, so I throw it in neutral, cut the car off and coast.. the noise is still happening. WTF.. ok, it's not the engine. (have some of you guessed the issue yet?) I try it a few more times and the it's always the same. The noise continues for at least 10 seconds after I switch the engine off, and I try a higher speed run up to about 75, but It feels like my drivers side floor pan is gonna go F&F. I get home, take another look under the car, not seeing anything out of the ordinary, then it hits me. I didn't put any bolts back in the front of the drivers side under panel, (the ones that hold the back of the transmission panel), that I had to take off to get my header installed. It was catching wind at speed, folding down till it scraped the ground, then slapping back against the floor pan. So note to any one else who doesn't put your skid plates back on, remember to replace the bolts to the other panels.

It's still pretty soon after the flash, and I still haven't went wot so I don't really know how the tune + header compares to the old stg 1 v1.5 tune. But could anyone tell me how the log looks?

[Turdinator]

Originally Posted by lucid215

Sorry for the late reply. Yes I have the ofh and aftermarket intake. I didn't have those hi ltft with the stage one rom. She felt a lot better on the stage one. I don't have any leaks I torqued the bolts down a bit more then stock specs. She's starting to feel a bit better but still the vvt still doesn't kick in as hard. I'm running Takeda intake, ofh, invidia over pipe, invidia catless front pipe, and jdm TRD axle back exhaust.

With a UEL and tune you wouldn't normally feel the VVT kick as the torque dip should be gone. Flatter torque curves often feel slower even tho they aren't.

Scale your MAF to get your trims in line and the car will feel heaps better. Good as they are Shiv's OTS tunes should really be treated as base maps where some tweaking may be required. Steve99's MAF scaling thread will spell it all out for you. Or if you aren't confident or just don't want the hassle you can buy an E-tune off Shiv.

[lucid215]

Originally Posted by Turdinator

With a UEL and tune you wouldn't normally feel the VVT kick as the torque dip should be gone. Flatter torque curves often feel slower even tho they aren't.

Scale your MAF to get your trims in line and the car will feel heaps better. Good as they are Shiv's OTS tunes should really be treated as base maps where some tweaking may be required. Steve99's MAF scaling thread will spell it all out for you. Or if you aren't confident or just don't want the hassle you can buy an E-tune off Shiv.

thanks for the insight on that. yea i have looked through steve99's thread and will be doing the maf scaling. just seams weird i have to do it for the stage 2 and not the stage 1. one quick question though. once i do the maf scaling for pump gas, do i have to transfer that over to the e85 map as well? also after putting about 180 miles on the stage 2 rom i did a 3rd gear pull. car seems a bit more peppier. heres the log

http://www.datazap.me/u/lucid215/sta...0?log=0&data=1

[Turdinator]

Originally Posted by lucid215

thanks for the insight on that. yea i have looked through steve99's thread and will be doing the maf scaling. just seams weird i have to do it for the stage 2 and not the stage 1. one quick question though. once i do the maf scaling for pump gas, do i have to transfer that over to the e85 map as well? also after putting about 180 miles on the stage 2 rom i did a 3rd gear pull. car seems a bit more peppier. heres the log

http://www.datazap.me/u/lucid215/sta...0?log=0&data=1

Since the MAF is the main sensor used to calculate load and by re-scaling you are improving its accuracy I would be inclined to copy it into any map you use.

[fstlane]

Originally Posted by Target70

I heard KKKKK. POP POP KKKKKKK POPPOPPOP KKKKK.. etc. I threw it in to neutral, and eventually it settled down. At this point I am scared shitless, but the engine seems to be running alright, so I limp it to a turn off and a gas station so I could take a look. Nothing looks out of the ordinary under the hood, except for the header wrap is still burning in. I decide to go back out and try it again with a data log, I gently work it back up to higher rpms, and everything seems fine, then the noise again, I let off throttle, get to a place to stop, end my data log: http://datazap.me/u/target70/stage-2...p?log=0&data=1
I decide to head home, and keep it low rpms, I get back up to about 65mph and the noise starts again, so I throw it in neutral, cut the car off and coast.. the noise is still happening. WTF.. ok, it's not the engine. (have some of you guessed the issue yet?) I try it a few more times and the it's always the same. The noise continues for at least 10 seconds after I switch the engine off, and I try a higher speed run up to about 75, but It feels like my drivers side floor pan is gonna go F&F. I get home, take another look under the car, not seeing anything out of the ordinary, then it hits me. I didn't put any bolts back in the front of the drivers side under panel, (the ones that hold the back of the transmission panel), that I had to take off to get my header installed. It was catching wind at speed, folding down till it scraped the ground, then slapping back against the floor pan. So note to any one else who doesn't put your skid plates back on, remember to replace the bolts to the other panels.

Haha, I did the exact same thing.

[steve99]

Originally Posted by Target70

I just finished installing the OFH. Flashed stg 2 uel 93oct A01C V 2.0 Beta. I read that you have to go back and re-torque the header bolts in a week so I figured I'd leave the underpanels off till then. I started it up, let it idle about 6 min. Did the 20 petal pushes with car on but not started. The car was a little rough at idle so I took it for an easy drive to get it to do some learning. Steve has pointed out that we need to get some higher rpms with constant non wot throttle, so I got on the interstate. I kept it at around 10-15% throttle, and ran it up to about 6k in each gear, I was pretty high in 3rd or 4th till I hit about 70mph when I heard KKKKK. POP POP KKKKKKK POPPOPPOP KKKKK.. etc. I threw it in to neutral, and eventually it settled down. At this point I am scared shitless, but the engine seems to be running alright, so I limp it to a turn off and a gas station so I could take a look. Nothing looks out of the ordinary under the hood, except for the header wrap is still burning in. I decide to go back out and try it again with a data log, I gently work it back up to higher rpms, and everything seems fine, then the noise again, I let off throttle, get to a place to stop, end my data log: http://datazap.me/u/target70/stage-2...p?log=0&data=1
I decide to head home, and keep it low rpms, I get back up to about 65mph and the noise starts again, so I throw it in neutral, cut the car off and coast.. the noise is still happening. WTF.. ok, it's not the engine. (have some of you guessed the issue yet?) I try it a few more times and the it's always the same. The noise continues for at least 10 seconds after I switch the engine off, and I try a higher speed run up to about 75, but It feels like my drivers side floor pan is gonna go F&F. I get home, take another look under the car, not seeing anything out of the ordinary, then it hits me. I didn't put any bolts back in the front of the drivers side under panel, (the ones that hold the back of the transmission panel), that I had to take off to get my header installed. It was catching wind at speed, folding down till it scraped the ground, then slapping back against the floor pan. So note to any one else who doesn't put your skid plates back on, remember to replace the bolts to the other panels.

It's still pretty soon after the flash, and I still haven't went wot so I don't really know how the tune + header compares to the old stg 1 v1.5 tune. But could anyone tell me how the log looks?

Glad you found the issue soounded pretty scary at start.

The log looks fine no knock but its low load light throttle, fuel trims look good around 4% or less, AFR at 14.7 which i would imagine is cruise afr just check the OL FUEL TABLE for that engine load/rpm, dont have laptop with me but looks fine. The 2xx tunes had completly new maf scalings and the AFR now follows the OL Fuel Tables, where as the 1.5x tunes did not, Think they increased the OL maf scaling 10-15% on purpose to make it run ricker than the tables probably to be safe on the 1.5x tunes , but the 2xx tunes it now normal so afr follows OL FUEL TABLE.

If you look at the MAF scaling and OLFuel tables between the two tunes you will see the difference. The 2xx tunes have much richer values in the OLFuel tables compared to the 1.5x tunes but the maf scaling is conteracting that so the AFR is around the same.

However MAF is used as an input for the engine load calculation i think this is why the 2xx tunes feel much better. As the load calculation was skewed in the 1.5x tunes due the artificially jacked up maf scale.

[steve99]

Originally Posted by Turdinator

Since the MAF is the main sensor used to calculate load and by re-scaling you are improving its accuracy I would be inclined to copy it into any map you use.

Agree with this, however you need to know the target AFR the tuner was targeting. The old 1.5 x tunes were an example where shiv said he targeted 11.8 to 12 yet the OL FUEL tables were like 12.2 to 12.4. this threw me for a while but they had jacke the maf scaling to achieve the target. Thischas now changed for the 2xx petrol tunes but i have not checked the E85 tunes as not out for G rom yet, although i could make one out of a C rom but just lazy i guess

[lucid215]

Originally Posted by Turdinator

Since the MAF is the main sensor used to calculate load and by re-scaling you are improving its accuracy I would be inclined to copy it into any map you use.

im gonna have to do a log tomorrow while driving to work. wot the logs look fine. its the cruising logs that i see high ltft. i think today i saw a high of 14%. hopefully i can get the logs and understand the whole maf scaling post

Edit: i used the scaling program and it didnt show any differences i should make. so i guess ill keep driving the car some more and see how she reacts

[JB86'd]

plugged in my OFT to take a datalog after a mellow freeway drive toward home..to my surprise my IAM was down at .7 already when I plugged it in. So I did a datalog anyway, and am seeing some Fuel Trim, FLKC and KC Learned values and am not sure that they're acceptable.
I now have about 100 miles on this tune, so I'm guessing it should be fully learned? Do I need to reflash and do something differently? Or is this just a result of California 91 Octane?

http://datazap.me/u/joshbustos86/frs...ata=1-6-8-9-12

Please help @steve99 @Shiv@Openflash

Actually gonna try the Vishnu Reset trick to get my IAM back up to 1 tomorrow and see if it helps.

[Kodename47]

Originally Posted by lucid215

Edit: i used the scaling program and it didnt show any differences i should make. so i guess ill keep driving the car some more and see how she reacts

Are you sure? If there's any trims at all it will change the scale.

[steve99]

Originally Posted by JB86'd

plugged in my OFT to take a datalog after a mellow freeway drive toward home..to my surprise my IAM was down at .7 already when I plugged it in. So I did a datalog anyway, and am seeing some Fuel Trim, FLKC and KC Learned values and am not sure that they're acceptable.
I now have about 100 miles on this tune, so I'm guessing it should be fully learned? Do I need to reflash and do something differently? Or is this just a result of California 91 Octane?

http://datazap.me/u/joshbustos86/frs...ata=1-6-8-9-12

Please help @steve99 @Shiv@Openflash

Actually gonna try the Vishnu Reset trick to get my IAM back up to 1 tomorrow and see if it helps.

Yes do the vishnu reset get iam back to 1 then try a wot run 2000-7500 3rd gear.

then do some on/off throttle stuff in 3rd or 4th 2000-3500 runs to check for tip in high load low rpm knock.

try to capture where the iam drops , if you get it to drop vishnu reset it then confirm the area.

[troek]

What is vishnu reset? Is there a trick i dont know About to get iam back to 1?

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by troek

What is vishnu reset? Is there a trick i dont know About to get iam back to 1?

sounds like a magic trick... "Vishnu allakazam!" iam resets to 1. lol

[steve99]

Originally Posted by troek

What is vishnu reset? Is there a trick i dont know About to get iam back to 1?

Yes should get your IAM back to 1 unless you have serious knock problems at low loads.
It explained in the Flashing-Learning-Reset in link below.

Vishnu Reset -Trick
Yes you can google it :-)

Basically it speed's learning of Fuel Trims and will Reset you IAM to 1 if it has dropped due previous knock events (assuming its not knocking at low/steady loads if so you have serious knock problems).

If you do 2 or 3 "vishnu reset" runs ie partial light (20% or so) steady throttle runs from 2000-5000rpm or so in 3rd it will set your fuel trims and reset your IAM (assuming is not knocking at low/steady loads) if its less than 1. The gear is not really important its the partial steady throttle the longer the run the better. A slight uphill grade can be useful (or you can left foot brake). This works anytime to reset IAM back to 1 (assuming its not knocking at light load) it useful when your chasing knock in an area and want IAM back to 1 without an ECU reset.