Anyone blown a stock boosted motor yet?

[Jaden]

Originally Posted by King Tut

I 100% agree. The only way to know that your tune is working is to be able to monitor it while driving with the use of a boost gauge and a wideband.

Anyone running FI without having a wideband is foolish, anyone running a turbo without wideband AND a boost gauge is flirting with disaster.

Jaden

[BRZPDX]

I'm just running a boost gauge currently, and reading the AFR through the factory O2 sensor with Scanguage II. Although the factory sensors can only see to 12.0 ish to 20.1, won't that range be good enough? I know when I go WoT, it will be at 12.0 for a while, knowing its below that. Cruising, about 14.7 to 14.0, idling/coasting at 20.1 to 19.8.

Are widebands more accurate, or is it better just seeing a wider range of AFR's?

[King Tut]

Originally Posted by BRZPDX

I'm just running a boost gauge currently, and reading the AFR through the factory O2 sensor with Scanguage II. Although the factory sensors can only see to 12.0 ish to 20.1, won't that range be good enough? I know when I go WoT, it will be at 12.0 for a while, knowing its below that. Cruising, about 14.7 to 14.0, idling/coasting at 20.1 to 19.8.

Are widebands more accurate, or is it better just seeing a wider range of AFR's?

Widebands are more accurate, have more range, and sample quicker than you can sample with a Scanguage II. By the way you should be idling closer to 15:1. I would also worry about how far below 12:1 I was going under WOT.

[Cross]

Originally Posted by nelsmar

No one ever opened the block up. The car still ran but it ran very poorly last I heard. My friend now has the engine and we were going to tear it down and see what let loose soon. Its just too damn hot out right now in Phoenix to be doing a detailed tear down. I haven't seen the logs or talked to mike but from talking to @Cross and a mutual friend it sounds like something else may have caused the failure and not the tune. VVT is possible, or about 1,000 other failure points. hah

The codes I got after everything happened all align with the TSB issued regarding the Cam Timing Control basically. PCM Lost control of the cams, tried to regain control and gave the car way to much timing resulting in the heads lifting along with who knows what else.

Since there is no real fix I choose not to go with another FA motor, not that any other would have been better I think these motor's take abuse well but I could not risk running into the same problem again.

I have found myself asking though if there is a way to do a VVTI delete kit to prevent the problem...

I am still at the point I could sell the LS and everything else and put in another FA20 and be back up and running... I just don't know that I would ever trust it.

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by Cross

I have found myself asking though if there is a way to do a VVTI delete kit to prevent the problem...

Might as well just get a different motor. Removing VVTI is equivalent to castrating it...

[Cross]

Originally Posted by Sportsguy83

Might as well just get a different motor. Removing VVTI is equivalent to castrating it...

But if the VVTi is going to cause failures at unknown times like mine then it just becomes a ticking time bomb until they finally make a replacement part that stops the issue from happening.

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by Cross

But if the VVTi is going to cause failures at unknown times like mine then it just becomes a ticking time bomb until they finally make a replacement part that stops the issue from happening.

VVTI is an integral system of the car making power, there is no way around it to "detele it" and it still being a good motor for making power.

[Cross]

Originally Posted by Sportsguy83

VVTI is an integral system of the car making power, there is no way around it to "detele it" and it still being a good motor for making power.

And there is no real fix for when it fails and when you are boosted this kind of failure is the end of the motor.

I am not disagreeing with you but it's a double edged sword it seems, without it the car has no power. Yet having it there is a TSB for a known problem with it but no real fix.

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by Cross

And there is no real fix for when it fails and when you are boosted this kind of failure is the end of the motor.

Which validates the point in telling you, it is better to have a different motor than keeping a VVTI-less FA20 to make power.

Also, there is no pattern or lots of failures of motors because of the VVTI. In general, cars that initially had the issue get it fixed at dealer and it never comes back.

It has been very rare for a car to have had no problems with VVTI from the start and develop it later. Your motor is the first one I've actually read it happened.

[Cross]

Originally Posted by Sportsguy83

Which validates the point in telling you, it is better to have a different motor than keeping a VVTI-less FA20 to make power.

Also, there is no pattern or lots of failures of motors because of the VVTI. In general, cars that initially had the issue get it fixed at dealer and it never comes back.

It has been very rare for a car to have had no problems with VVTI from the start and develop it later. Your motor is the first one I've actually read it happened.

I found someone else while searching the forums here, I will see if I can find it again.
My issue is those that had it fixed there was no real parts replacement I was told by the tech so I could face the problem again and being boost when that happens it will result in the same problem if not worse should it happen while I am racing and not just driving normally.

If I could trust the FA20 I would just put in another and shrug it off as a fluke as I seem to face many strange situations. But at this point I do not know that I can.

[cdrazic93]

What is this VVTi problem? Im assuming it sounds like VTEC gone bad

[fast_dude]

If you don't blow your motor your lucky, but evently you will wear the motor out. I will stay away from the boosted application.

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by cdrazic93

What is this VVTi problem? Im assuming it sounds like VTEC gone bad

Idle dip/CEL issue

Originally Posted by fast_dude

If you don't blow your motor your lucky, but evently you will wear the motor out. I will stay away from the boosted application.

Obvious troll post..

[s2d4]

Originally Posted by Cross

I found someone else while searching the forums here, I will see if I can find it again.
My issue is those that had it fixed there was no real parts replacement I was told by the tech so I could face the problem again and being boost when that happens it will result in the same problem if not worse should it happen while I am racing and not just driving normally.

If I could trust the FA20 I would just put in another and shrug it off as a fluke as I seem to face many strange situations. But at this point I do not know that I can.

Avo knew this a long time ago apparently, there have been changes to the VVTi as evident by change in parts.