Kraftwerks Supercharger Owners Thread

[FR-S Matt]

So in regards to the whole checkvalve thing as I tried to read it again. Is this something I need with the Radium dual can setup? I read they are pressurized already. Also, did we confirm the size of the valve we need and this is on the hose from the crank to the intake? I'm about to install my catch cans, hose clamps this weekend before the SC goes on.

This may be worthy of another thread, honestly.

[King Tut]

Originally Posted by FR-S Matt

So in regards to the whole checkvalve thing as I tried to read it again. Is this something I need with the Radium dual can setup? I read they are pressurized already. Also, did we confirm the size of the valve we need and this is on the hose from the crank to the intake? I'm about to install my catch cans, hose clamps this weekend before the SC goes on.

This may be worthy of another thread, honestly.

It isn't a question of whether the catch can can take being pressurized, the question is whether you want to pressurize the crank case. I would say no.

[TmP]

If a check valve is needed, why isn't there one in the kit?!

[protpibe]

Originally Posted by FR-S Matt

So in regards to the whole checkvalve thing as I tried to read it again. Is this something I need with the Radium dual can setup? I read they are pressurized already. Also, did we confirm the size of the valve we need and this is on the hose from the crank to the intake? I'm about to install my catch cans, hose clamps this weekend before the SC goes on.

This may be worthy of another thread, honestly.

You'll want to place the check valve between the intake manifold and catch can. Make sure the valve is allowing air to flow from PCV to Intake Manifold and not the other way around.

Like tut said, the purpose is to stop your crank case from being pressurized. You could technically place the check valve on the other side of the catch can, but I don't think many cans are designed with taking positive pressure in mind. It's easier to just put the check valve after the can and not worry about it.

As for size, I think it's 1/2" inside diameter at the intake manifold but steps up to 5/8". I could be mistaken about that though.

[FR-S Matt]

Originally Posted by protpibe

You'll want to place the check valve between the intake manifold and catch can. Make sure the valve is allowing air to flow from PCV to Intake Manifold and not the other way around.

Like tut said, the purpose is to stop your crank case from being pressurized. You could technically place the check valve on the other side of the catch can, but I don't think many cans are designed with taking positive pressure in mind. It's easier to just put the check valve after the can and not worry about it.

As for size, I think it's 1/2" inside diameter at the intake manifold but steps up to 5/8". I could be mistaken about that though.

Thanks for the clarification! I'll be adding this in with the install.

Like @King Tut said, I think this is more of a precautionary measure, not a requirement. Kind of like the hose clamp solution. It makes sense as long as the valve does its job.

Now to make sure I put the valve in the right direction.

[Freeman]

Originally Posted by TmP

If a check valve is needed, why isn't there one in the kit?!

Which kit? The catch can kit?

[protpibe]

Originally Posted by TmP

If a check valve is needed, why isn't there one in the kit?!

It being needed is kind of debatable.

A lot of people don't run them, but I chose to personally. The OEM PCV valve is not meant to handle boost so it will let pressurized air into the crank case. The Vortech kit comes with a check valve but others don't, for whatever reason. They're only a few bucks so it's not that big of a deal to pick one up on your own

[TmP]

Not that it's a big deal, it's just curious why KW doesn't think it's needed.

[KraftWerks]

Just a quick FYI for those that purchased their kits from the group buy, Skunk2 has released their Pro-C Coilovers for the BRZ/FRS. Your discount/coupon/promo code is valid on them... call or email them for pricing.


We're not trying to "thread jack" and/or turn this into a suspension discussion... Just a heads up. Back to the topic at hand, BOOST!

[ST-A]

we also just finished installation of the KW kit, but we had to make a few mods.
because we are located in Europe , the GT86 comes with HID lights stock and so is equiped with a high pressure washer system.
Things we needed to modify:
- KW washer bottle, we needed an extra hole for the headlight washer pump
- intercooler cold side was hitting the washer nozzle, it was either the ic pipe or the nozzle, so we modified the intercooler piping

now we need to figure out a custom tune because we are using the OFT.

we also have SARD header, SARD cat pipe, milltek exhaust and mishimoto low temp thermostat.


pictures of the build can be found on our fb page:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...8047905&type=3


Any tips on priming the rotrex oil system? did you guys really deconnected all injector clips like the manual says ?

For the tune, do we NEED an upgrade map sensor like they come with the ecutek package or can we just go with stock MAP and rescale MAF ?

[post_break]

Prime the rotrex by putting 100% gas pedal down and attempt to start the car. This is anti-flood mode and the car WILL NOT START. This will allow you to turn it over without flooding it. Do not take your foot off of the gas when attempting this, keep it pegged to the floor. Let it turn over a couple of times and turn it off. Let the starter cool down.

[TmP]

Originally Posted by post_break

Prime the rotrex by putting 100% gas pedal down and attempt to start the car. This is anti-flood mode and the car WILL NOT START. This will allow you to turn it over without flooding it. Do not take your foot off of the gas when attempting this, keep it pegged to the floor. Let it turn over a couple of times and turn it off. Let the starter cool down.

If this isn't a joke, it's good info

[post_break]

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hyFAnJbsoXM"]Caliber SRT4 Clear Flood Mode - YouTube[/ame]

Obviously not our car, but it's the same thing. If you're too scared to do that pull the HPFP fuse, yellow 20 amp under the hood.

[ST-A]

thank you