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#43 |
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Yeah, but they also low balled the crap out of the value of her car. If I could get a gently used 10 Series for $16K, I would buy it as a third car right now.
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#44 |
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Thanks
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Were you checking the side mirrors or the sun visor mirror?
![]() i kid i kid, good luck OP
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#45 |
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Geico tried to tell me I had to use one of their "approved shops" but I wasn't having it. I looked some of them up online and the reviews were terrible. So I took it right back to the dealer I got it from to fix it back to perfect and after a little bit of a heated argument with the agent I had on the phone, they said I had to get an estimate from their shop and I could get the work done elsewhere. So I agreed as long as if the estimate wasn't the same they would still pay for what was needed to fix it correctly.
But I've never dealt with Allstate they may be more strict on the rule, not sure. And they may not be as willing to work with the person at fault. May be worth a try if you haven't already committed to one of their shops though. Especially if you're worried about it not going to the exact way it was. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#46 |
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Sarcastic Bastard
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In the big picture, this is an annoyance but not a tragedy. Hang in there and think positive!
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#47 | |
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Quote:
Moral of the story, insurance company's get a kick back from their "approved shops".
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2013 raven frs(dd/grocery getter)
1990 mitsu eclipse gsx(street/strip car) 1995 gmc 1500 4x4(off road toy) 2005 Yamaha yz250f |
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#48 |
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Hail Magnet
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Sorry for your not-quite-total-loss there, OP. And I agree with a couple of the others who have posted here:
1) Frame above the passenger wheel definitely looks bent. The process of straightening that out, unless its done perfectly, will make the fitment of any of the front pieces of the car look a little strange. 2) I have a feeling the body shop underestimated by at least $1000. If they are reputable, ask them to call you if there will need to be any additional repairs/costs, as this would likely push the repair costs above the 80% threshold. |
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#49 | |
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#50 | |
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It means that you make it clear to the adjuster that you do not intend to settle the claim until it is paid out to your satisfaction, and that your satisfaction includes totaling the car. You do not have to just take the insurance adjuster's word for it. The adjuster has an incentive to lowball the repair estimate to avoid paying out the full market value of the vehicle plus taxes and registration.
Especially in a situation where it's this close, there are sure to be items on that estimate that should be higher. If you keep negotiating/arguing with them about it, you can get the estimate up above the percentage threshold where the car is totaled. An attorney I know went through this process with his wife's car. He knew it should have been totaled, so he fought with the insurer and ultimately threatened to sue. They eventually caved and paid out the full value of the car. Quote:
In this case (Allstate), the repair shop doesn't even provide an estimate. That's done by the adjuster, who will be experienced at leaving things out to make sure the estimate stays below the threshold for totaling the vehicle. The insurance company may then tell you it's not totaled, but that doesn't mean you have to accept it. |
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#51 |
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Don't worry about the car "never being the same". It's just a bunch of pieces and they can replace part after part until it drives like new. If not then, well, live with the consequences. It will still drive better than 90% of other cars on the road.
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#52 |
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I do not believe that. When you stop an engine by banging something against the front of it, there can be internal damage. There are some interesting stories in the tech section about people having minor front end damage and suffering catastrophic engine failures several thousand miles later.
I'll be honest with you. I would not want that car after an accident like that. I would be fighting tooth and nail to get the car totaled, because I would not be able to have any trust in the engine and drivetrain after that. I think your adjuster is blowing smoke up your ass regarding his estimate. If I were you, I would look into getting another estimate from a body shop that is independent of your insurer, and I would push to get it totaled. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to extrashaky For This Useful Post: | AVodka14 (06-03-2014) |
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#53 | ||
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Quote:
While I am sure there are edge cases where people were able to get a car totalled if it is right on the bubble, that is few and far between. Quote:
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#54 | |
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#55 | |
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Quote:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65739 In the end he ended up selling his car and buying something different. Also, I think it could be argued that the value of her car is way low. Probably to the tune of $6-7K. All State may be low on the damage estimate, but they are way low on the value of the car. |
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#56 | |||
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Actually I do know what my talking about, because I had a claim with Allstate last year and had to deal with all their bullshit games. I know for a fact that they lowball their damage estimates and then play games with their "supplemental payment" nonsense, because they did it to me. There was no way they could repair my truck for what they quoted without dusting the whole thing in polychromatic unicorn farts.
My situation was a bit different because, unbeknownst to them, I didn't want my truck totaled. I wanted to keep the truck, and I didn't want it to have a salvage title. Because I didn't buy into their bullshit and was willing to wait them out, I was ultimately able to get what I wanted out of them. Quote:
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