Blown engine! known head problems?

[Bigmaxy]

That log looks absolutely terrible to me. If you show boost (map) and afr, it is awfully lean for basically the whole run. The knock is a problem too.

I'd be interested to see what the STFT are showing on a longer log also.

[FirestormFRS]

Part throttle detonation has been the death of many high compression engines.

[sosick]

Originally Posted by Malt

Really? So you admit to deliberately trying to defraud your dealership into replacing an engine that you knowingly modified in a manner that you knew would have a risk for engine failure?

And people wonder why dealerships can be such a pain when dealing with legitimate warranty claims. Don't be a dirt bag.

Must work for a dealer. Ive heard of these engines going for the same issue ur having. On a non fi motor. Have at it! At least someone will get their motor fixed like its supposed to!

[Dmitri]

Originally Posted by Bigmaxy

That log looks absolutely terrible to me. If you show boost (map) and afr, it is awfully lean for basically the whole run. The knock is a problem too.

I'd be interested to see what the STFT are showing on a longer log also.

tuned by fa20 club.

[Dmitri]

Update, engine is out of the car, decided to do it myself, low mileage replacement coming in. started tear down of blown motor to get ready for 10:1 turbo motor build, cams, lifters, rockers, timing chains, tensioners all solid, no rod contact with block as far as i can see, no obvious damage to cylinder walls, tons of metal in oil pan form a yet unidentified source, next culprit is possibly spun rod bearing, crank bearing, or wrecked wrist pin, metal particles are magnetic. Anyone have blown up diagrams of what the timing advance solenoids look like inside?

[andrew20195]

Originally Posted by Dmitri

Anyone have blown up diagrams of what the timing advance solenoids look like inside?

The solenoid (electrically controlled plunger on the timing cover), or the adjustable cam sprocket? There have been diagrams and links to info posted on these forums, you could probably find it with a search if someone isn't kind enough to link it in this thread.

Does everything look ok in the valvetrain so far? All the rocker arms were in place?

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by Dmitri

Update, engine is out of the car, decided to do it myself, low mileage replacement coming in. started tear down of blown motor to get ready for 10:1 turbo motor build, cams, lifters, rockers, timing chains, tensioners all solid, no rod contact with block as far as i can see, no obvious damage to cylinder walls, tons of metal in oil pan form a yet unidentified source, next culprit is possibly spun rod bearing, crank bearing, or wrecked wrist pin, metal particles are magnetic. Anyone have blown up diagrams of what the timing advance solenoids look like inside?

Its in here in all its glory...

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35471

[Dmitri]

Originally Posted by andrew20195

The solenoid (electrically controlled plunger on the timing cover), or the adjustable cam sprocket? There have been diagrams and links to info posted on these forums, you could probably find it with a search if someone isn't kind enough to link it in this thread.

Does everything look ok in the valvetrain so far? All the rocker arms were in place?

valvetrain was not the culprit, spun rod bearing, and damaged main bearing. rod bearing no longer existed rod was riding on crank, so now new rods/crank/pistons, case and head studs. getting my new stock motor tuesday and tossing that in for now, building this motor on the side.

[raul]

Could barely get your AFR under 13 during the entire pull. That's sounds really aggressive to me.

[zohare]

Originally Posted by Dmitri

Car still runs, sound like a something is completely destroyed in passenger head, engine is not even shaking or misfiring. Threw a code for p000a, p0011 "camshaft over advanced" and 'camshaft position slow response"

I haves some pictures of a lifter that went through a head in a car locally if they help? I think he over revved. DI seals led to burnt valve?

[Dmitri]

Update: 2 blown direct injection seals the other 2 were not looking so hot either. Hard and browned from heat, the one corresponding to the cylinder with the spun bearing , the injector stem was black all the way to the isolator. Don't know if such extreme failure is due to the shitty tune, but I'm sure it did not help.

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by Dmitri

Update: 2 blown direct injection seals the other 2 were not looking so hot either. Hard and browned from heat, the one corresponding to the cylinder with the spun bearing , the injector stem was black all the way to the isolator. Don't know if such extreme failure is due to the shitty tune, but I'm sure it did not help.

Detonation is what causes seal failure, the extremely high pressure and heat will blow past seal scorching the injector. Once seal fails and pressure blows by it, fueling leans out in that cylinder.

Detonation or frequent knock is why your seals/injectors are damaged.
This is caused primarily by tuning or fueling issues. Eliminate knock and detonation seals hold together.

[Dmitri]

Originally Posted by Dezoris

Detonation is what causes seal failure, the extremely high pressure and heat will blow past seal scorching the injector. Once seal fails and pressure blows by it, fueling leans out in that cylinder.

Detonation or frequent knock is why your seals/injectors are damaged.
This is caused primarily by tuning or fueling issues. Eliminate knock and detonation seals hold together.

Saw your awesome writeup on the di seals, very nicely done. Still cant belive what I just paid for the "tool". Anyway I posted a topic about I but has anyone considered adding aditional sealing to the injector stem between the teflon seal and isolator, maybe a thin layer of high temp silicone sealant, when reinstalling? Seems like if you can create even more resistance to gasses blowing past the injector the seal may hold up better. Can't think of a downside except the injector being a little harder to remove in the future.

[kombatlion]

Originally Posted by Dmitri

cruising at a steady rpm as in hwy driving the car ran at 14.7 bone stock, that was the commanded afr on the factory map too..if i let off slightly it would go to 15.1 then when it entered boost it would go to 12s

So if when I press the pedal down goes to 10s is runing rich?