Full throttle Electric Supercharger Build Thread

[DAEMANO]

Originally Posted by shif7i7down

Kinda off topic on what you are talking about but... for the guys that already had the esc kit installed, what are the major supporting mods that you've done and did they help with trq and hp?
Also, would i benefit from a mfactory 4.67 final drive conversion.

Thanks

OFT tune is a must. This is first. Then...

In California, adding 11oz of Torco Unleaded Accelerator to 1 full tank of CA91 pump gas improved the car dramatically across the entire power band. Granted it would to an NA car as well, but it really makes the Phantom ESC rocket.

Logically, the Torco Accelerator also improved my logs too. The IAM stays nearly locked in at 1.0 and if/when it drops to say the .90 area, it recovers immediately. Whereas without the fuel additive it could drop extremely low and take a long time to recover back to 1.0.

The car revs smoother, the torque dip is shorter, it has more power up top.

The additive adds $8 to the cost of a fill up (or about $0.65 a gallon), and is worth every penny. Takes the car to roughly 93-95 octane. Wondering about taking the fuel up to 105 octane (max that Torco says the additive will do).

I also have a TRD drop-in filter and catback. These were already on the car before the Phantom ESC so I can't say if they actually add anything to the ESCs performance.

[robwbright]

Originally Posted by Luckrider

Modding a car directly for a 0-60 time is useless though since it is only used as a metric and provides no direct correlation between these proposed changes and track times be it the strip or circuit.

Oh I understand that... although "useless" is a strong word. 0-60 is useful for me because I don't track (yet and may never) and I don't often run 0-100s because I don't like speeding tickets.

To me, 0-60 is a nice measuring stick.

[robwbright]

Originally Posted by DAEMANO

Torco Accelerator

I'm guessing there are alternatives that may be more or less expensive/effective..?

Any specific reason you chose that one as opposed to any other, similar products.

[fenton]

Originally Posted by robwbright

Oh I understand that... although "useless" is a strong word. 0-60 is useful for me because I don't track (yet and may never) and I don't often run 0-100s because I don't like speeding tickets.

To me, 0-60 is a nice measuring stick.

The big difference with different gear ratios is the get up and go the car will now have in 3rd and 4th in comparison to the longer gears.

The car will just seem more eager to move.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

[Jac]

Originally Posted by DAEMANO

I think the push to pass/super pursuit mode is being tested right now by another user + Rob. Don't remember whom. I also don't know if that is a hardware only test or if Shiv has provided custom software for SPM/Push to Pass. Software could definitely be in play there.

I have SPM but I'm not testing anything. Its just a switch that turns off/on the throttle switch. Unless we're talking about different things.

[DAEMANO]

Originally Posted by robwbright

I'm guessing there are alternatives that may be more or less expensive/effective..?

Any specific reason you chose that one as opposed to any other, similar products.

Basically its the one that has been reported to work best and not damage the engine or fueling system. It doesn't add HP but instead helps in knock retardation so that the engine runs at it's timing target as often as possible.

1. Lots of recommendations on this board
2. Independent dynos on the net, here's one.
3. Found many more anecdotes from other platforms on the net
4. No adverse effects reported on engine
5. Reputable company

Since our cars are tuned for 93 octane, I'm not sure if adding more to raise the octane further will improve anything, but I'll do a little more research and give it a shot if it seems safe.

[DAEMANO]

Originally Posted by Jac

I have SPM but I'm not testing anything. Its just a switch that turns off/on the throttle switch. Unless we're talking about different things.

That's what I'm talking about.

[shif7i7down]

Originally Posted by Gary in NJ

One supporting mod is really a must, and that is an ECU tune. Other supporting mods (header, air filter element) have shown to help in the higher rpm range (6000 to rl). The above conversation about weight helps all cars. A set of light weight rims pays off in acceleration and turn response, and they look good.

Regarding the 4.67 rear gears, it depends on the type of performance you are after. If 0-60 and 1/4 times are your thing, then yes. But that mod comes at the expense of higher cruise rpm, wear and fuel consumption. It's not a big deal - at 70 mph you'd be turning 3,425 rpm vs 3,000 - but it is real.

Makes sense, thanks,, i guess I'll just get the ofh and some kind of aftermarket intake, any clues as to which ones will still fit with the esc in place.

[Gary in NJ]

Originally Posted by shif7i7down

Makes sense, thanks,, i guess I'll just get the ofh and some kind of aftermarket intake, any clues as to which ones will still fit with the esc in place.

K&N drop-in. The OEM airbox helps to support the compressor. Not the most expensive answer, but the right one.

[TM]

Originally Posted by Jac

It allows you to turn off the throttle switch. Basically lets you run in a non-boosted mode (although it'll still pulse the compressor if it detects negative pressure, aka it becomes a restriction at high RPMs)

Are you on an OFT tune? Do you run rich with SPM off while WOT?

It'll be great if I can just go to the track and take advantage of the drag reduction without doing anything else (like flashing back to a stage 1 tune and or swapping back to stock intake tube).

[fenton]

Originally Posted by TM

Are you on an OFT tune? Do you run rich with SPM off while WOT?

It'll be great if I can just go to the track and take advantage of the drag reduction without doing anything else (like flashing back to a stage 1 tune and or swapping back to stock intake tube).

I think for any sort of extended track use you will still be better off going stock.

If im not mistaken when DR or no boost is being applied the car will run close to the stock or stage 1 fuel targets. This would mean it would run lean and not rich when no boost is detected.

[shif7i7down]

Does SPM/DR come standard with every kit?

[Jac]

Originally Posted by TM

Are you on an OFT tune? Do you run rich with SPM off while WOT?

It'll be great if I can just go to the track and take advantage of the drag reduction without doing anything else (like flashing back to a stage 1 tune and or swapping back to stock intake tube).

I ran a little rich compared to stock:

Disclaimer: measured using Dynojet sniffer which seems to be directionally accurate when I've compared it to my OFT logs.

Made basically the same power as stock, with a little less low end torque:

[Jac]

Originally Posted by shif7i7down

Does SPM/DR come standard with every kit?

DR comes standard (thankfully).

I believe you need to ask Rob for SPM when you order and he'll wire it in.