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| Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for! |
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#15 |
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NASA SpecE30 Racer
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Fixt. I have always used anti-seize on my studs on the racecar. Never stripped a stud. Never had a lug come loose.
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#16 | |
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Quote:
Oh and the arp studs are great. I have no worries with them installed and installing them is simple
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Track cars: 2013 Scion FRS, 1998 Acura Integra Type-R, 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback DD: 2005 Acura TSX Tow: 2022 F-450 Toys: 2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1994 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Parts: 2015 Subaru BRZ Limited, 2005 Acura TSX Projects: 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited track car build FS: 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 LT CCSB 8.1/Allison with 99k miles |
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#17 |
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So, I don't take my wheels off often, but the last 2 times I've already had 1 stud break and today another stud stripped. Seems like the factory wheel studs are weak as hell. I can already feel some of the other studs getting stiff and there are visible metal shavings.
If I wanted to upgrade these studs so I can avoid running into this issue, what would you all recommend?
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#18 | |
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Quote:
Are you using a torque wrench? |
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#19 |
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Thanks. I don't have a torque wrench. I'll definitely be looking to invest in one since I've been needing to remove my wheels more often now. Up until now most of the time I've had a shop remove the wheels. I've only done it myself a handful of times.
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#20 |
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NASA SpecE30 Racer
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ARP makes the only aftermarket studs I have seen thus far. Using air tools to remove and install the lug nuts multiple times was most likely the cause. You definitely always want to torque them with a torque wrench as well. The shop should have been doing that as well.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to King Tut For This Useful Post: | ericmpena (04-29-2014) |
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#21 |
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^^ I've heard the Nismo studs will work as well.
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#22 |
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Vorshlag also makes extended studs (slightly shorter than ARP)
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#23 |
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Knock on wood, have had OEM studs, had wheels on and off over 100x.
Impact off, hand thread nuts back on, then impact with tq stick to 60lbs, then torque wrench on. No anti-seize. Had oem nuts and now Mutegi SR48s.
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#24 |
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Remember, a torque wrench is a precision tool. Always back it off when you're not using it, and keep it in its protective case. Don't drop it or expose it to any type of impact/shock load.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to CSG Mike For This Useful Post: | ericmpena (04-29-2014) |
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#25 |
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#26 |
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I wipe anti seize on the threads of the stud and then wipe it off with a cloth. I know it will start some arguments, but I've never had a problem after lots of tire changes (every other week for 3 years during autocross on my old car).
These studs feel pretty weak and I am thinking about switching to something stronger. |
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#27 |
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i stripped a stud/nut using an impact to remove the nut. It was torqued to 90 lbs.. I'm not impressed...it was the first time I used an impact to remove the nuts and will be the last.
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#28 |
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I had similar problems, breaking the stock studs. Changed to ARP extended studs, and problem solved. I use an impact drill, change them constantly, no issues. go with ARP extended studs. I do not use antiseize, the ARPs are just that good. They look solid compared to the stock ones.
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