Full throttle Electric Supercharger Build Thread

[Gary in NJ]

Originally Posted by robwbright

Thanks, Gary.

I guess what I'm getting at is WHY did you prefer 70% as opposed to 80% or 100%? How does the car and/or ESC act differently?

I don't have any idea how the switch adjusts... I suppose that will become clear when the kit arrives.

I just went and checked an old post, my last switch activated at 60% throttle (http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...postcount=2049)

We're only talking about 2-1/2 inches of throttle travel so the practical difference is only 1/2" between 60% and 80%. With a 60% activation the ESC felt more immediate. It's not like I'd linger at 60-70% throttle...if I went through 60% throttle I was on my way to 100%.

I may try different setting. Since I don't like installing the switch, I think I'll just fatten the accelerator control arm with some tubing. When I find a thickness I like I'll just clamp it into place.

[robwbright]

Originally Posted by Gary in NJ

I just went and checked an old post, my last switch activated at 60% throttle (http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...postcount=2049)

We're only talking about 2-1/2 inches of throttle travel so the practical difference is only 1/2" between 60% and 80%. With a 60% activation the ESC felt more immediate. It's not like I'd linger at 60-70% throttle...if I went through 60% throttle I was on my way to 100%.

I may try different setting. Since I don't like installing the switch, I think I'll just fatten the accelerator control arm with some tubing. When I find a thickness I like I'll just clamp it into place.

I think I get it now... I had been paying attention to how I drive and noticing that I didn't actually mash it all the way to the floor very often - especially at low rpm. I can see why we'd want the switch the engage earlier.

[Robftss]

Originally Posted by Gary in NJ

Rob, 80% throttle position is approximately where the throttle plate is wide open. I've had two switches, my first opened around 70% throttle position, and the one I have now opens at 80%. I much preferred the 70% activation and will make the necessary bends. I find access to the install/uninstall of the throttle position unpleasant. My 51 year old body just doesn't bend like it use to.

There is no uninstall/install required. Since the switch is near the fulcrum there is enough bending-ability for +/- 1/4" to make ~70-100% activation. The bracket does not need to be removed/adjusted/re-installed....just 'tweaked' while still fastened to the ETC stud. Some like near 100%, it will trigger DR more often and maintain N/A...until you want it all. But yes you will have to go on your knees

[Gary in NJ]

Originally Posted by Robftss

There is no uninstall/install required. Since the switch is near the fulcrum there is enough bending-ability for +/- 1/4" to make ~70-100% activation. The bracket does not need to be removed/adjusted/re-installed....just 'tweaked' while still fastened to the ETC stud. Some like near 100%, it will trigger DR more often and maintain N/A...until you want it all. But yes you will have to go on your knees

Good to know. It seemed crude to me just to bend it. I saw myself using a hand seemer or break to get it just right. You can imagine how many installs and reinstalls that would take. I'll give it a "tweek" next time I'm vacuuming the carpets.

[VR46]

Originally Posted by TM

Did you have longer wires (specifically the one with the large red connector that connects the dump packs to the controller)? I tried to route mine to the side like yours and it wasn't long enough, so I had to route it on the other side of the fuse box, like in the install guide.

I'd rather have all of my wires off to the side.

No, mine are the ones that came with the kit. You're right that they're not quite long enough. You have to route it just so, and if you look at my pic you can see the plastic bit poking out the bottom of the loom a little on the controller side

[shif7i7down]

Originally Posted by VR46

No, mine are the ones that came with the kit. You're right that they're not quite long enough. You have to route it just so, and if you look at my pic you can see the plastic bit poking out the bottom of the loom a little on the controller side

Why couldn't you just add wires and extend it? Would that impact how the system runs?

[VR46]

Originally Posted by shif7i7down

Why couldn't you just add wires and extend it? Would that impact how the system runs?

I suppose I could, but it's not necessary.

[Gary in NJ]

Originally Posted by shif7i7down

Why couldn't you just add wires and extend it? Would that impact how the system runs?

As a good operating practice, you shouldn't add to wires (especially those carrying high currant) because;

1. every connection is a potential failure point, and
2. every connection has the potential to increase resistance (i.e. corrosion).

It is far better to use the correct wire length. Rob has done this with the kit.

[drewbot]

@Robftss @fenton

Do you guys think you can fit a group 27 tray in the bay?

The reason I'm asking is that we have a Braille from a part out that I'd like to use instead of the smaller battery posted in post #1. I think I may be able to squeeze the 1.5 and standard dump packs all with the Braille 21 lber.

Based on the FAQ that was posted this morning, I tried to understand what all the dimensions of the battery configs are. See below

[Urmyson]

I bet you could fit a Group 27 tray in there. I'm running the dump pack batteries and Odyssey pc925 which are 11.8" wide and it fits in the stock battery tray. There is room on both sides so another inch on each side shouldn't be a problem.

[drewbot]

Originally Posted by Urmyson

I bet you could fit a Group 27 tray in there. I'm running the dump pack batteries and Odyssey pc925 which are 11.8" wide and it fits in the stock battery tray. There is room on both sides so another inch on each side shouldn't be a problem.

That sounds promising. I was inclined to go PC925 except I'm up in Canada and would rather squeeze out every CCA

[Boxer486]

Originally Posted by Tenthousanddays

Holy crap... sorry... wasn't trying to offend anyone, considering the immense amount of BS in this thread I didn't think discussing another idea for powering the blower as spam.

I think you're a bit confused on where I'm coming from. I WANT this system! I want to buy one! But I'm also interested in helping to make it better.

So do I and I'm thankful for your post here and at the other thread. I don't see why posting alternative motor options is a bad thing.

The thing that puts me off on this kit is the discouraging lack of flexibility to relocate the controller and batteries. There's no way I'm spending money to add some 45lbs back to the front of the car. In the rear yes, not a problem.

I love that the compressor and motor are relatively light compared to other FI solutions and the CoG stays pretty neutral unlike the twin screw. I don't mind that others are fine with the stock setup, but i'd like better options to retain or improve the cars dynamics without sacrificing other areas.

If the product was just sold with terminals I'd be fine running my own thicker gauge wire and hooking it up myself. With a proper install, I wouldn't be worried about corrosion or added resistance. Maybe a version 2 kit someday that's more flexible. Just a thought.

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by Boxer486

So do I and I'm thankful for your post here and at the other thread. I don't see why posting alternative motor options is a bad thing.



The thing that puts me off on this kit is the discouraging lack of flexibility to relocate the controller and batteries. There's no way I'm spending money to add some 45lbs back to the front of the car. In the rear yes, not a problem.



I love that the compressor and motor are relatively light compared to other FI solutions and the CoG stays pretty neutral unlike the twin screw. I don't mind that others are fine with the stock setup, but i'd like better options to retain or improve the cars dynamics without sacrificing other areas.



If the product was just sold with terminals I'd be fine running my own thicker gauge wire and hooking it up myself. With a proper install, I wouldn't be worried about corrosion or added resistance. Maybe a version 2 kit someday that's more flexible. Just a thought.

Not exactly sure why we can't post about the other system, but If rob and Fenton don't want to talk about it here I will honor their wishes.

As for the weight issue don't forget we are removing one weight and adding another.

We are losing approximately 30 pounds (I checked online) and with the full 1.5 pack upgrade at most you are looking at 44 pounds.

Net gain 14 lbs. I can tell you right now none of us on this forum are good enough drivers for 14 lbs to be the difference on handling characteristics of this car.

[Blu-by-U]

There is an open source ESC thread in the forum somewhere. That might be the place for your questions.


"http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41148"

Originally Posted by Tenthousanddays

Holy crap... sorry... wasn't trying to offend anyone, considering the immense amount of BS in this thread I didn't think discussing another idea for powering the blower as spam.

I think you're a bit confused on where I'm coming from. I WANT this system! I want to buy one! But I'm also interested in helping to make it better.