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#99 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
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Surface protection film becomes a necessity of today. It's a nice way to protect your investment.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to adwordandi For This Useful Post: | GhostShield (04-15-2014) |
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#100 | ||
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Drives: 2014 BRZ SWP LTD
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Quote:
Sounds like I'm better off just doing the full hood. Quote:
DO NOT have the dealer correct any kind of blemishes on the car! I 100% guarantee they will only temporarily mask the solution, as the blemishes will reappear with most likely a hologram effect in the clear coat. Last edited by Turbo95eg6; 04-15-2014 at 01:55 PM. |
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#101 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
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Quote:
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#102 |
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Banned
Join Date: Oct 2013
Drives: small
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#103 | |
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Trust me, I'm the Doctor
Join Date: Nov 2013
Drives: 2019 WRX Limited (WRB)
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Quote:
__________________
Subies Of Blessed Memory: '05 Forester, '08 WRX, '13 STi
Daily Driver: 2014 BRZ 6MT Limited ^GT5 Replay Photo Mode^ |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to SirBrass For This Useful Post: | GhostShield (04-15-2014) |
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#104 |
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Trust me, I'm the Doctor
Join Date: Nov 2013
Drives: 2019 WRX Limited (WRB)
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Opti-coat and cquart are both micron-thin permanent coatings, much like the clear coat part of the paint coat, once they've had time to cure properly.
That said, I'd want both the cquartz (I'm told it looks better on dark paints than optiguard) then also the clear bra. Clear bra for the added rock chip protection, and just the cquartz for the rest of the car's protection as well.
__________________
Subies Of Blessed Memory: '05 Forester, '08 WRX, '13 STi
Daily Driver: 2014 BRZ 6MT Limited ^GT5 Replay Photo Mode^ |
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#105 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Dec 2013
Drives: 2013 silver FRS
Location: Thousand Oaks
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Quote:
The best bet as far as wax and dirt building up on the edges of the film is to use spray wax on a micro fiber rag wrapped around your finger tip and gently work the wax/build up off the edge. Problem with 3m is you can't use alcohol on it. If it were Suntek or XPEL I'd still use the micro fiber on my finger but alcohol would take the build up off the edge twice as fast and with less rubbing. I def would not use the tooth pick!! No no no haha as installers after an install we do use an insulin needle to suck out any small bubbles we might have missed. As far as fading of the paint that's not covered, it's all going to come down to how well you maintain those surfaces and how much sun your car sees. I have seen fading on cars where I remove an old PPF kit and that paint looks great but the rest is faded. Those people though DID NOT maintain their car worth a crap! So it's all in your hands. Just wash her regularly and wax often. As far as waxing the clear bra or putting any sealers on it, I don't on my frs and don't tell customers to. I just recommend spray waxing the clear bra after every wash. Leaves it slick and shinny. Great thing about Suntek and XPEL to is you can clay bar it if any fallout developes on the clear bra. As far as your paint prep, I think your right on the money. Let the touch up paint cure for a day. And during the install the installer needs to be careful not to lift the film back up on an area where the touch up is. Once he squeegees that down it needs to stay down. Because yes the film will possibly lift the touch up paint out of the chips. Again just kinda goes back to why I stress getting clear bras on new cars ASAP or before they are even driven at all. I love having my frs full wrapped
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#106 |
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Banned
Join Date: Dec 2013
Drives: 2013 silver FRS
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Wax will not affect the clear bra install. The installer should wash the car very well and blast out all the cracks and crevices in the bumper. Then he should prep with a degreaser or rubbing alcohol on a micro fiber.
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#107 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Dec 2013
Drives: 2013 silver FRS
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Check out www.shinesupply.com and chemical guys if you guys haven't already. Both have great products! Shine supply is made locally here in Ventura county California |
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#108 |
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Banned
Join Date: Dec 2013
Drives: 2013 silver FRS
Location: Thousand Oaks
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Just wanna say thanks again for the love guys! I greatly appreciate it.
Sorry I was absent for a few days. Been busy at the shop, wrenching on my frs, spending time with my family and old lady and of course chillen with the guys enjoying some cold ones! |
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#109 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Dec 2013
Drives: 2013 silver FRS
Location: Thousand Oaks
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She's gunna be getting more camo real soon haha :/ Gunna do a single main camo stripe on the hood and front bumper, on the front of the roof start as a single stripe then split into a dual stripe before the antenna on the roof then continue over the trunk and rear bumper as two stripes. All of it will be outlined with a matte black stripe on each side of the camo. I think it'll be sick and differant. |
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#110 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Drives: 2014 BRZ SWP LTD
Location: The 503
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Quote:
This is the reason why I'm leaning more towards opticoat since I already have chips in the car. I guess I'll have a week to decide. Last edited by Turbo95eg6; 04-15-2014 at 08:23 PM. |
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#111 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Dec 2013
Drives: 2013 silver FRS
Location: Thousand Oaks
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Thanked 26 Times in 25 Posts
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Ask him questions. And yeah you can wash the car yourself, make sure you get any bug guts off, since your doing paint correction you shouldn't need to clay it. Blast out all the cracks of the bumper while washing it. I like it when a customer brings me a decently washed car haha save me time ![]() Even with the chips it's still worth it to PPF. Chips are just plain ugly to look at, why be susceptible to more. |
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#112 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
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When it's time to remove the film (due to wear & tear), what's the best correct way to do it without causing any damage?
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| Tags |
| clear bra, paint protection film, thousand oaks |
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