Full throttle Electric Supercharger Build Thread

[fenton]

Originally Posted by nlowell

Installed the stage 2 UEL tune and kept the ESC turned off (instead of removing the foot switch). Still something going on before 4k RPM - after that looks good. I think this confirms something is going on besides the ESC from 2-4k RPM. I'm taking it to get it looked at tomorrow on a lift to see if an expert can find a leak. Hopefully it's just something simple...




On another note...car feels like a dog! I think I got used to the ESC

Here is what shiv's log looks like with dual dump and tq250.

http://www.datazap.me/u/shivvishnu/t...8-2531&mark=26

[nlowell]

Originally Posted by fenton

I would be carefull hitting full boost with the ESC on. It is running very lean and the logs that shiv has posted of his FRS do not show that same lean event.

Email shiv directly and ask him about it if you havent already.

Emailed Shiv - they thought it may be an exhaust leak around the 02 sensor but I had a professional check that out today on a lift and found no leaks. I re-flashed the ECU and will test again. I'm thinking that it had to do with me modifying my snorkel and allowing more intake airflow. I'm guessing here, but maybe the ECU needed more time to "learn" with the new change. I'm hoping that re-flashing will expedite this. I'll do some careful 2nd gear logs today on my way home from work to see what it shows now.

[nlowell]

I re-flashed and did another run on the way home - by the time I saw the AFR spike I let off the gas but was already past the lean section - won't be doing that again anytime soon (at least not until I get a new tune).

http://www.datazap.me/u/nlowell/91-t...zoom=2072-2151


I then ran a pull starting at 4k RPM and damn did that feel strong. AFR looks good as well. I guess until I get a new tune I'll have to keep my foot light below 4k RPM which should be hard at the track Saturday since I usually stay in the 5-7k range the whole time.

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by nlowell

I re-flashed and did another run on the way home - by the time I saw the AFR spike I let off the gas but was already past the lean section - won't be doing that again anytime soon (at least not until I get a new tune).

http://www.datazap.me/u/nlowell/91-t...zoom=2072-2151


I then ran a pull starting at 4k RPM and damn did that feel strong. AFR looks good as well. I guess until I get a new tune I'll have to keep my foot light below 4k RPM which should be hard at the track Saturday since I usually stay in the 5-7k range the whole time.

Did you change anything else? I couldn't imagine the snorkel changing things this drastically. What did you remove to mod the snorkel?

[nlowell]

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

Did you change anything else? I couldn't imagine the snorkel changing things this drastically. What did you remove to mod the snorkel?

Removed the front bumper, removed the snorkel, cut the snorkel, reinstalled snorkel and bumper, removed air filter to check if it was clean, reinstalled.

Maybe I somehow pissed my crickets off...anyone know what crickets like?

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by nlowell

Removed the front bumper, removed the snorkel, cut the snorkel, reinstalled snorkel and bumper, removed air filter to check if it was clean, reinstalled.



Maybe I somehow pissed my crickets off...anyone know what crickets like?

Ooh. Check your seating on your filter box.

[nlowell]

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

Ooh. Check your seating on your filter box.

I just ordered a clean and oil kit for the K&N filter. I'll clean and check it tomorrow when it comes in.

The ESC does push on the filter box more than I'd like but it doesn't look like it causes much mis-alignment. Was your install very tight against the air-box?

[Jac]

I'll soon be joining the ESC club, delivery estimate is Friday!

Any advice/gotchas before I install from existing owners? Rob recommended i use it daily for a full week before hitting the dyno to let the batteries break-in.

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by nlowell

I just ordered a clean and oil kit for the K&N filter. I'll clean and check it tomorrow when it comes in.

The ESC does push on the filter box more than I'd like but it doesn't look like it causes much mis-alignment. Was your install very tight against the air-box?

I know that the bottom two clips on my box are a pain in the ass. I usually remove the front portion of the air box and attach the rear. Then I clip that to the esc and install.

[Gary in NJ]

Originally Posted by Jac

I'll soon be joining the ESC club, delivery estimate is Friday!

Any advice/gotchas before I install from existing owners? Rob recommended i use it daily for a full week before hitting the dyno to let the batteries break-in.

Congrats.

Install the compressor and tubing loose (don't tighten the clamps) until it's all in place. Keep the joints tight as you tighten the hose clamps about 80%. After it's all clamped, go back and do a final tighten on the hose clamps.

Get your tune installed as soon as possible, then drive the snot out of it. The boost will overwhelm the traction control, so turn it off,

[nlowell]

Originally Posted by Jac

I'll soon be joining the ESC club, delivery estimate is Friday!

Any advice/gotchas before I install from existing owners? Rob recommended i use it daily for a full week before hitting the dyno to let the batteries break-in.

Congrats! Make sure to test the batteries before you install them as I remember one person receiving a dud. If you have any questions or issues during the install, don't hesitate to ask!

[fenton]

Originally Posted by Jac

I'll soon be joining the ESC club, delivery estimate is Friday!

Any advice/gotchas before I install from existing owners? Rob recommended i use it daily for a full week before hitting the dyno to let the batteries break-in.

What tune are you running it with. The battery break in is important for peak performance.

Other than that, just take your time running the wires into the cabin as someone forgot to tie some down and they melted. Use the ty wraps and looming that Rob provides with the kit.

[nlowell]

Originally Posted by fenton

What tune are you running it with. The battery break in is important for peak performance.



Other than that, just take your time running the wires into the cabin as someone forgot to tie some down and they melted. Use the ty wraps and looming that Rob provides with the kit.

Good point, I bought extra loom to protect more of the wires.

Also, I started running the foot switch from the passenger foot well. It would have been much easier starting from the drivers side since the connector is smaller and easier to feed under the radio.

[DAEMANO]

Originally Posted by fenton

What tune are you running it with. The battery break in is important for peak performance.

Other than that, just take your time running the wires into the cabin as someone forgot to tie some down and they melted. Use the ty wraps and looming that Rob provides with the kit.

Yes, that someone was me. Make sure there is as little slack as possible in the wires running through the firewall to the WOT and Arm switch. The loom will offer little protection to the wires if they come in contact with the overpipe. Upon reinstall I am shielding that section of wire with something that won't ever melt + insulation to prevent heat transfer if it does and hose clamping the whole section away from any possible contact.

Nothing else I can think of that hasn't been mentioned. Enjoy it. You'll never believe such a changes could be so dead simple.