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#29 |
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#30 |
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Let's say first place gets $1,500, second gets $500. Is it worth an extra 5-10 minute pit stop?
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Track cars: 2013 Scion FRS, 1998 Acura Integra Type-R, 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback DD: 2005 Acura TSX Tow: 2022 F-450 Toys: 2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1994 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Parts: 2015 Subaru BRZ Limited, 2005 Acura TSX Projects: 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited track car build FS: 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 LT CCSB 8.1/Allison with 99k miles |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Dave-ROR For This Useful Post: | solidONE (02-21-2014) |
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#31 |
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I mostly care about the lifespan of them. The OEM didn't last for me, and I know it depends on how I drive. I've had 3 encounters on the freeway where I had to brake extra hard. Plus, I find that I get annoyed from the noise. I was also looking into the W1 because of the lifespan.
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#32 | |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to CSG David For This Useful Post: | TOTO_86 (02-23-2014) |
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#33 |
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Standard sprint race pads will not last for endurance purposes. The compound makeup is different and gets "activated" in its optimal temperature range. Anything outside of that has poor bite and wear on both the pad and disc. That's basically what an endurance pad is. Oh...and they're noisy as hell like a truck trying to stop...
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#34 |
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Sorry to hijack but I didn't want to create another thread just to ask these question:
1) What is the best way to bed-in new pads (say W1 or Stoptech SP) on a used disc? Discs are slotted, and in good condition since only recently installed. 2) Do I need to remove the old transfer layer? 3) What is the easiest way of removing this transfer layer? 4) Any negatives if I don't remove old transfer layer? |
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#35 | |
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2. Not really. 3. Scotch brite, a track brake pad without using the brake pedal during cruising, or turning the rotor on the lathe. 4. Your pads may or may not wear as evenly and your brakes will not be in its "optimal" state. To be honest, all you really need to focus on is bedding your brake pads properly. We provide bed in instructions with our brake orders. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to CSG David For This Useful Post: | Fizz (02-21-2014) |
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#36 | |
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<< all of my cars also run race pads all the time
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-Dave
Track cars: 2013 Scion FRS, 1998 Acura Integra Type-R, 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback DD: 2005 Acura TSX Tow: 2022 F-450 Toys: 2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1994 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Parts: 2015 Subaru BRZ Limited, 2005 Acura TSX Projects: 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited track car build FS: 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 LT CCSB 8.1/Allison with 99k miles |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Dave-ROR For This Useful Post: | CSG David (02-21-2014) |
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#37 | ||
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#38 |
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Waiting for my W4s to be installed all around with Spiegler lines and RT700 fluid.
so far the front rotors have been resurfaced with the W4 front pads on and stock old fluid. even with this I can notice the lack of bite compared to oem but the consitency and overall performance is simply amazing! (mind you the old fluid is 30k old so it wasnt consistent for long haha) still need to resurface the rears, install rear pads and then flush out the old fluid and install the lines. should be interesting ![]() and I have not heard any noise since properly bedding them in
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#39 | |
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#40 | ||
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#41 | |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
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| The Following User Says Thank You to CSG David For This Useful Post: | solidONE (02-21-2014) |
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#42 | |
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__________________
-Dave
Track cars: 2013 Scion FRS, 1998 Acura Integra Type-R, 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback DD: 2005 Acura TSX Tow: 2022 F-450 Toys: 2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1994 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Parts: 2015 Subaru BRZ Limited, 2005 Acura TSX Projects: 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited track car build FS: 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 LT CCSB 8.1/Allison with 99k miles |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Dave-ROR For This Useful Post: | solidONE (02-21-2014) |
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