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Old 02-21-2014, 12:04 AM   #29
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Just added WE1 to the website and GB thread. Don't you use CL6E for endurance though? I know CT RP2 and PMU Racing Sintered are comparable.
Yowza! I guess there is quite the premium for longevity.
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Old 02-21-2014, 12:30 AM   #30
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Yowza! I guess there is quite the premium for longevity.
Let's say first place gets $1,500, second gets $500. Is it worth an extra 5-10 minute pit stop?
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Old 02-21-2014, 12:38 AM   #31
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I mostly care about the lifespan of them. The OEM didn't last for me, and I know it depends on how I drive. I've had 3 encounters on the freeway where I had to brake extra hard. Plus, I find that I get annoyed from the noise. I was also looking into the W1 because of the lifespan.
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Old 02-21-2014, 03:43 AM   #32
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I mostly care about the lifespan of them. The OEM didn't last for me, and I know it depends on how I drive. I've had 3 encounters on the freeway where I had to brake extra hard. Plus, I find that I get annoyed from the noise. I was also looking into the W1 because of the lifespan.
Lifespan can be a function of how much you use your brakes because you're not getting nearly enough braking that you need. This causes you to ride your brakes a little more and thus, wear quicker. Honestly, W2 will probably work a little better for your application as it provides a little more sportiness, but yields close to OE characteristics. As with any performance pad, you will run into the possible situation of noise. Bed them in like a rockstar and you'll be perfectly fine. I mean I run full race pads on my daily driver that I use to commute all over socal and have no issues right now.
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Old 02-21-2014, 03:45 AM   #33
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Yowza! I guess there is quite the premium for longevity.
Standard sprint race pads will not last for endurance purposes. The compound makeup is different and gets "activated" in its optimal temperature range. Anything outside of that has poor bite and wear on both the pad and disc. That's basically what an endurance pad is. Oh...and they're noisy as hell like a truck trying to stop...
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Old 02-21-2014, 04:24 AM   #34
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Sorry to hijack but I didn't want to create another thread just to ask these question:

1) What is the best way to bed-in new pads (say W1 or Stoptech SP) on a used disc? Discs are slotted, and in good condition since only recently installed.

2) Do I need to remove the old transfer layer?

3) What is the easiest way of removing this transfer layer?

4) Any negatives if I don't remove old transfer layer?
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Old 02-21-2014, 05:19 AM   #35
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Sorry to hijack but I didn't want to create another thread just to ask these question:

1) What is the best way to bed-in new pads (say W1 or Stoptech SP) on a used disc? Discs are slotted, and in good condition since only recently installed.

2) Do I need to remove the old transfer layer?

3) What is the easiest way of removing this transfer layer?

4) Any negatives if I don't remove old transfer layer?
1. Like any brake pad, you will need to warm up the rotors properly and then do repeated quick deceleration from a decent velocity to a relatively slow velocity (close to stopping by still moving) without engaging ABS until you feel a hint a fade. After a good cool down without using your brakes, you can park the car and you should see a hint of color on the rotors as some indicator.

2. Not really.

3. Scotch brite, a track brake pad without using the brake pedal during cruising, or turning the rotor on the lathe.

4. Your pads may or may not wear as evenly and your brakes will not be in its "optimal" state. To be honest, all you really need to focus on is bedding your brake pads properly. We provide bed in instructions with our brake orders.
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Old 02-21-2014, 11:04 AM   #36
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Standard sprint race pads will not last for endurance purposes. The compound makeup is different and gets "activated" in its optimal temperature range. Anything outside of that has poor bite and wear on both the pad and disc. That's basically what an endurance pad is. Oh...and they're noisy as hell like a truck trying to stop...
The CLs aren't any noisier then their other pads. Every pad is loud on my BRZ.

<< all of my cars also run race pads all the time
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Old 02-21-2014, 11:28 AM   #37
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3) What is the easiest way of removing this transfer layer?

4) Any negatives if I don't remove old transfer layer?
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3. Scotch brite, a track brake pad without using the brake pedal during cruising, or turning the rotor on the lathe.

4. Your pads may or may not wear as evenly and your brakes will not be in its "optimal" state. To be honest, all you really need to focus on is bedding your brake pads properly. We provide bed in instructions with our brake orders.
When ya put in yer new pads, drive around on 'em for a week (without hard braking) before you bed them in. This will accomplish number 3 and prevent any pad deposits (#4) that can cause vibrations in the pedal.
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Old 02-21-2014, 12:30 PM   #38
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Waiting for my W4s to be installed all around with Spiegler lines and RT700 fluid.

so far the front rotors have been resurfaced with the W4 front pads on and stock old fluid.

even with this I can notice the lack of bite compared to oem but the consitency and overall performance is simply amazing! (mind you the old fluid is 30k old so it wasnt consistent for long haha)

still need to resurface the rears, install rear pads and then flush out the old fluid and install the lines. should be interesting

and I have not heard any noise since properly bedding them in
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Old 02-21-2014, 12:49 PM   #39
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Waiting for my W4s to be installed all around with Spiegler lines and RT700 fluid.

so far the front rotors have been resurfaced with the W4 front pads on and stock old fluid.

even with this I can notice the lack of bite compared to oem but the consitency and overall performance is simply amazing! (mind you the old fluid is 30k old so it wasnt consistent for long haha)

still need to resurface the rears, install rear pads and then flush out the old fluid and install the lines. should be interesting

and I have not heard any noise since properly bedding them in
The Winmax don't "bite" or "grab" hard when you get on the brakes. It's a whole different characteristic and requires you to change your braking style a little bit. What's nice is it teaches you how to be very smooth on the brakes.
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Old 02-21-2014, 07:06 PM   #40
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Let's say first place gets $1,500, second gets $500. Is it worth an extra 5-10 minute pit stop?
You got a point there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CSG David View Post
Standard sprint race pads will not last for endurance purposes. The compound makeup is different and gets "activated" in its optimal temperature range. Anything outside of that has poor bite and wear on both the pad and disc. That's basically what an endurance pad is. Oh...and they're noisy as hell like a truck trying to stop...
So would you guys not recommend using endurance pads for sprint purposes? Even if noise is a non-issue? I figure I could be very deliberate on the warmup lap to put enough heat in them and the temps should be good for the rest of the laps. Good strategy or no?
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Old 02-21-2014, 08:46 PM   #41
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You got a point there.



So would you guys not recommend using endurance pads for sprint purposes? Even if noise is a non-issue? I figure I could be very deliberate on the warmup lap to put enough heat in them and the temps should be good for the rest of the laps. Good strategy or no?
From what I've seen, some guys have used the endurance pads on their cars and weren't too happy. While it may seem like it'll last longer, sometimes it may not work as well in your favor. You are free to try for TA, but we won't particular recommend that pad for standard HPDE or TA use.
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Old 02-21-2014, 09:40 PM   #42
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From what I've seen, some guys have used the endurance pads on their cars and weren't too happy. While it may seem like it'll last longer, sometimes it may not work as well in your favor. You are free to try for TA, but we won't particular recommend that pad for standard HPDE or TA use.
^^ Depends on the pad. I love the CL RC6Es. Some other endurance pads.. eh.
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