Tire Width/Compound Vs. Horsepower

[Mild2Wild]

Originally Posted by cdrazic93

Serious question: what about un-sprung weight?

what exactly is the question? obviously less unsprung weight is advantageous. as king tut pointed out though, maybe 18' just provides more options as far as tire choice goes...

[cdrazic93]

Originally Posted by Mild2Wild

what exactly is the question? obviously less unsprung weight is advantageous. as king tut pointed out though, maybe 18' just provides more options as far as tire choice goes...

I was under the impression you want more un sprung weight then not

I keep getting things cris crossed... >.<
In any case, i would probably do some enkei RPF1's if i was going 18. Or gramlights

[CSG David]

Originally Posted by SmsAlSuwaidi

I plan on doing r888s 225/45/17 on the stock rear rim until i can get a decent suspension/ wheel setup

We talked about this already...

[ModBargains.com]

Originally Posted by King Tut

So many ways to answer this. My best answer would be to have two sets of wheels and tires. One set for the track in the form of some 18x9 inch wheels and a set of 265-275 width R compounds (I race on Toyos, so that would be an RA1 or R888). Then for the street I would run another set of wheels in a size you like with a set of at least 245 width Michelin Pilot Super Sports in the rear (the best all around tire money can buy with 30,000 mile warranty).

Bingo.

If I were to add to what King Tut says I would say if anything what will really help is a proper LSD on this car as well. Traction becomes a big issue after you add boost, in which R compounds will only help so much. The tires will help if you progressively get into boost, but if you just jam on it without hesitation or any progressiveness, it will spin the tires regardless if they're R-compounds or not, this car really does need an LSD too.

[SmsAlSuwaidi]

Originally Posted by CSG David

We talked about this already...

!
I really wanna do 17x9 +35 rpfs


Sent from my IBrick

[CSG David]

Originally Posted by SmsAlSuwaidi

!
I really wanna do 17x9 +35 rpfs


Sent from my IBrick

With your power...get 18x9.5!!

[King Tut]

Originally Posted by ModBargains.com

Bingo.

If I were to add to what King Tut says I would say if anything what will really help is a proper LSD on this car as well. Traction becomes a big issue after you add boost, in which R compounds will only help so much. The tires will help if you progressively get into boost, but if you just jam on it without hesitation or any progressiveness, it will spin the tires regardless if they're R-compounds or not, this car really does need an LSD too.

Not sure if SRS. We aren't driving a Mustang GT Jurrian, haha (I know GTs can have LSDs):

http://www.subaru-global.com/13brz_technology.html

Exhilarating precision in every corner—that’s what sets a SUBARU BRZ Premium apart. An advanced Torsen (*2) limited-slip differential—the same type of LSD found on the high-performance WRX STI— helps you better stay on your line during a high-speed turn whilst enhancing your comfort and control on rough roads.

There are certainly adjustable and upgrades, but we aren't one wheel wonders or anything.

[ModBargains.com]

Originally Posted by King Tut

Not sure if SRS. We aren't driving a Mustang GT Jurrian, haha (I know GTs can have LSDs):

http://www.subaru-global.com/13brz_technology.html

Of course I'm serious! Slap an LSD on there, and you'll see... But of course you came back to the dark side and got an M3, so I guess that wont happen.

And thanks for ousting me on owning a Mustang, now nobody will buy parts from me haha

[VroomVroom86]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

I'll take a stab at it, but I need you to more clearly define your goals.

1. How much are you willing to spend to do ALL of this, including FI, supporting mods, suspension, rims, brakes, and tires? Do you want a dyno queen or a reliable track monster? If you're not thinking something well in the 5 figure range, I'd urge you to reconsider your goals.

2. What experience do you have? Do you know how to do your own basic diagnostics, dial your suspension in, etc? What about driving experience?

3. No level of tire will ever hold 400hp if you do something stupid. For example, even a stock car will break traction on slicks, if you crank the steering wheel in 1st gear, and floor it. What level of traction do you realistically want?

4. Describe for me EVERYTHING you will be doing with the car.

5. You're in NorCal. DO you plan on running Laguna Seca? They have some nasty noise restrictions that will really define what you can do with your setup to make power.`

1. I want the car to ultimately be a reliable daily driver, and track car. As for the turbo and engine set up, I don't want to put a price tag in terms of reliability, but I do plan on investing in an oil cooler, vented hood, upgraded radiator. Already have a catch can. As for the turbo kit, I plan on setting aside 7000, which would include tuning, turbo blanket, and other cooling options to reinforce reliability. Suspension and wheels, I would like to get coils, lca, sway bars, already have strutbars, and perhaps anything else that is necessary. Whatever wheel and tire combo would be most efficient.

2. I do not have any tuning experience what so ever haha but I have been to a few auto x in my old car (civic si), I'm sure the platform is very different. I have been doing a lot of spirited mountain driving, and I would say I am very confident driving my car aggressively.

3. I don't want gobs amount of traction. But I would like the car to still be predictable within a safe margin, so that I'm not sliding everywhere.

4. Turbo, coils, wheels, headerback exhaust, carb. Drive shaft, lightweight battery, more suspension bits here and there. Basically supporting mods for the turbo, to really sum it up. My goal is to have all that done before my turbo goes in, so that the car can effectively handle the power, and still have a proper racing platform.

5. Yes I do plan on racing there. I have a silencer for my exhaust, if that makes a difference.

[VroomVroom86]

I forgot to mention that I plan on building and reinforcing my engine.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ModBargains.com

Bingo.

If I were to add to what King Tut says I would say if anything what will really help is a proper LSD on this car as well. Traction becomes a big issue after you add boost, in which R compounds will only help so much. The tires will help if you progressively get into boost, but if you just jam on it without hesitation or any progressiveness, it will spin the tires regardless if they're R-compounds or not, this car really does need an LSD too.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by VroomVroom86

1. I want the car to ultimately be a reliable daily driver, and track car. As for the turbo and engine set up, I don't want to put a price tag in terms of reliability, but I do plan on investing in an oil cooler, vented hood, upgraded radiator. Already have a catch can. As for the turbo kit, I plan on setting aside 7000, which would include tuning, turbo blanket, and other cooling options to reinforce reliability. Suspension and wheels, I would like to get coils, lca, sway bars, already have strutbars, and perhaps anything else that is necessary. Whatever wheel and tire combo would be most efficient.

2. I do not have any tuning experience what so ever haha but I have been to a few auto x in my old car (civic si), I'm sure the platform is very different. I have been doing a lot of spirited mountain driving, and I would say I am very confident driving my car aggressively.

3. I don't want gobs amount of traction. But I would like the car to still be predictable within a safe margin, so that I'm not sliding everywhere.

4. Turbo, coils, wheels, headerback exhaust, carb. Drive shaft, lightweight battery, more suspension bits here and there. Basically supporting mods for the turbo, to really sum it up. My goal is to have all that done before my turbo goes in, so that the car can effectively handle the power, and still have a proper racing platform.

5. Yes I do plan on racing there. I have a silencer for my exhaust, if that makes a difference.

A lot of things you want are race parts, and things to support a fast car that are not daily-driver friendly, but you want this to be your daily. If you're serious about doing all this, you WILL have downtime *when* things break. Not if, but when.

400hp is a serious figure, and to reliably make it, you'll need this:

- Turbo setup of your choice
- Engine oil cooler
- Radiator
- Fans
- Axles
- Transmission
- Gauges/warnings/datalogger(s)
- Engine work

To put the power down, you'll need:
- Rims
- Tires
- Body work

To corner, you'll need:
- Coilovers
- LCA
- Camber/caster plates

This is already a nice figure over 30k for quality parts, and not top shelf stuff, just high quality.


Do you drive everywhere with the traction/stability control permanently off? If you don't for any reason, I'd urge you to seriously reconsider your decision.

Will you be doing the power first or the handling first?

Remember, every car over 400hp that sees even the remotest amount of track time has lost engines, and I'm not talking the drag strip (and I don't think you intend on doing that anyways). Crawford. Evasive. Element Tuning.

If you've seen any 400hp+ FA20 powered turbo cars that have been tracked successfully, please let me know; I can't keep up with every thread here.

[Victor Draken]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Do you drive everywhere with the traction/stability control permanently off? If you don't for any reason, I'd urge you to seriously reconsider your decision.

Is it possible to do it without killing ourself and still driving quite hard?

I mean on normal roads, with the stock tires... I have to say it scares the shit out of me to have it off all the time. Sometime you just find these part of the road where the asphalt has just no grip and if the road is tight and it slide in an aggressive way... I think you must be hell of a driver to handle it.

Maybe I'm just a bad driver

[diss7]

400hp at the track? Slicks. Full slicks. 265 285 Semis will be ridicoulously expensive.

21-64/17 or 24-64/17 full slick would be what I would be running.

On the street, you can run a super grippy wide expensive tyre, that might last 5000kms, or MUCH less. Or just run a much cheaper, common, 235/40 $150 tyre, that is still quality, but accepting the fact that if you're using 400hp on the street, you're either going to be wheel spinning common tyres, and replacing them often. Or running high grip tyres, breaking drivetrain components, and replacing them often.