Track guys: What would you like to see CSG test?

[CSG Mike]

Well, testing reaper's request would be about... $9k in parts... plus consumables... and I'm not even sure what kind of results he's asking for or what metrics should be recorded

[7thgear]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

I'm just saying with OEM height and near-oem spring rates, there's just no benefit. You'll gain a ton of ride quality, but minimal performance.

okay, I won't get into it but then how about just the new Bilstein HDs and OEM springs and see how that rides on a track vs lets say Konis and a normal coilover.


ie, how much is the lower cg and stiffer spring giving you vs a dampening benefit.

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by Reaper

Yes i understand that. I was reffering to ap vs stoptech vs oem sti brembos.

My statement still stands, your request is very vague and almost impossible to measure.

If all those brake kits ran the same compound pads from the same 3rd party manufacturer (say, Endless pads), then your braking performance will be identical.

The rest is a bunch of intangibles that are exceedingly hard to measure given Mike's limited resources.

-alex

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by 7thgear

okay, I won't get into it but then how about just the new Bilstein HDs and OEM springs and see how that rides on a track vs lets say Konis and a normal coilover.


ie, how much is the lower cg and stiffer spring giving you vs a dampening benefit.

I'd say not enough to be worth the money, without testing. Isnt the point to either a) substantially improve ride quality or b) substantially improve performance?

Both of your examples do neither since spring rates aren't really increasing, and the dampers are not matched to the OEM springs.

[diss7]

I'd like to second the request for aero parts testing.

How about setting yourself a challenge, to lower the car another inch, and maintain current lap times? May need to add some adjustable swaybars to counter the increased roll.

[juliog]

I'd love it if you guys wrote short reviews of other cars that you get to drive during HPDEs, using the FR-S as the baseline for comparisons —since it's what most of us know. Most interested in handling and track readiness (e.g. how do the turbo engines in the Focus/Fiesta ST hold up? do their electronic torque vectoring eat up break pads? etc..)

[Pat]

A very well done diffuser after removal of the spare wheel well, if beneficial. Creative exhaust routing encouraged.

[dem00n]

An automatic.

[mtsui]

final drive on NA set up

[7thgear]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Isnt the point to either a) substantially improve ride quality or b) substantially improve performance?

not to me
i always look at WRC cars and try to figure out what they do, because they drive on roads, and that's where i spend most of my time.

and from what i understand, their tarmac suspension isn't all that stiff and has gobs of movement

although they also have lots of geometry correction but still.

i'm looking for what is the best compromise at the moment... stock works pretty well, but i'm just curious if getting just dampers is going to be worth the hassle.

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by normancw

It would be great to test the effectiveness of brake ducts - maybe the APR brake duct kit ($600) with backing plates while you still have the stock calipers on the BRZ.

You could install, do some laps, measure temps, and record impressions. Then block them off and repeat.

Once you upgrade to the AP Endurance BBK, you can do the same test (connecting to the APR hose to the built in duct attachment in the Endurance caliper bracket). This would direct air to the center of the disc, vs the side for the APR backing plates.

Another alternative (with the stock calipers) is the TF brake duct kit with backing plates ($340) that direct air to the center of the discs (hub area). If you already have the APR inlet ducts and hose installed, you could reuse them to test with the TF backing plate.

I like these ideas

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by normancw

It would be great to test the effectiveness of brake ducts - maybe the APR brake duct kit ($600) with backing plates while you still have the stock calipers on the BRZ.

You could install, do some laps, measure temps, and record impressions. Then block them off and repeat.

Once you upgrade to the AP Endurance BBK, you can do the same test (connecting to the APR hose to the built in duct attachment in the Endurance caliper bracket). This would direct air to the center of the disc, vs the side for the APR backing plates.

Another alternative (with the stock calipers) is the TF brake duct kit with backing plates ($340) that direct air to the center of the discs (hub area). If you already have the APR inlet ducts and hose installed, you could reuse them to test with the TF backing plate.

Now this is something we could probably do. I do know this. In 3 laps, we got the stock braking system so hot that a laser temp gauge was unable to read the temperature... after about 5 minutes of pure cooldown, the pads/rotors/hub/caliper were all over 350C, indicating severe overheating. You don't want the calipers to ever see more than 250C.

TBH, I'm not sure how the Torque RT700 we used even survived...

[SeanRTR]

I'd like to see 3-4 different brake pad compounds tested to see which has the best feel/bite after several laps of use. Comparison between race compounds of Hawk, Carbotech, Ferrodo, etc etc... I'd be curious to get feedback from an experienced driver from back to back sessions as far as which pad provided the best feel, and if it could withstand the heat for a prolonged session.

I'd also like to see some data of differnt tire sizes (same compound), which you may already have. I've heard you constantly say that wider tires rob you of straight away speed in a low powered n/a car. I'm surprised that cornering speeds don't make up for these negative effects you've found on the straights.

[7thgear]

yeah, if you're going to lean towards a brake cooling experiment i'd definitely like to hear some unbiased observations on pad rotor "titanium" shims. (or whatever the current product of choice is)

definitely wouln't mind a cost effective solution to keep the OEM setup going as long and reliable as possible.

although i've always wondered if a rotor shim would decrese friction levels and put undue stress on the studds and what not :/