Stock brakes too small for stock wheels

[dave77]

I think the brakes are pretty good. I think they are wrx brakes from the 2003-2003ish wrx?

Aren't our front brakes 4-piston anyway?

[s2d4]

Originally Posted by ndsleep612

I drive conservatively, but once in a while I'll gun in on a freeway entrance to match the speed of traffic. When I step on the brake pedal, it feels that there just isn't enough bite to the stock brakes when you're trying to slow down when traveling 85 or doing emergency braking.

Is this you trying to merge?

[DR 86]

Originally Posted by dave77

I think the brakes are pretty good. I think they are wrx brakes from the 2003-2003ish wrx?

Aren't our front brakes 4-piston anyway?

Front brakes are two piston. Rear brakes are one.

[dave77]

Oh my bad.

[TouchMyHonda]

Beyond the obvious lack of power, I didn't like how underwhelming the stopping power was. I have xp8 front a rear and its absolutely amazing even with oem Prius tries.

[RCL]

get better tires, and better pads.

[NYCsubaruBRZ]

re: Stock brakes too small for stock wheels

like others said. you need more grip. 1st thing, get better tires.

i switched out the stock rims for 17x8 rims and put grippy tires on them.

then you can also get some of this stuff like the grimmspeed master cylinder brace, performance rotors, pads, ss brake lines. thats about all you can do with the stock setup besides maybe a brake air duct. i might make my own if i feel it needs it. i dont think it will need it. that should make a big difference in stopping power. oh maybe light weight lug nuts will make you stop faster lol. the tow hook and oil drain plug in the pic dont count. dont mind those.

i havent installed
the lines
or the rotors
or pads
or mc brace
not yet... but when it warms up outside i will be dropping it all in.

[wparsons]

IMO, stay away from drilled rotors. If you're actually heating up rotors a lot they'll crack easier than a blank rotor.

The only upgrade most owners will need for track driving is better pads and fluid.

With my summer tires I could overheat the stock pads in a couple corners, but with better pads and fluid I haven't overheated them yet.

[NYCsubaruBRZ]

Originally Posted by wparsons

IMO, stay away from drilled rotors. If you're actually heating up rotors a lot they'll crack easier than a blank rotor.

The only upgrade most owners will need for track driving is better pads and fluid.

With my summer tires I could overheat the stock pads in a couple corners, but with better pads and fluid I haven't overheated them yet.

the whole idea with drilled/slotted rotors is that they release the heat better and they dont allow the gasses that are being released from the pads to stay between the pad and rotor. so they actually make the car stop harder. and cooler brake temps. ive had drilled slotted rotors on every car or truck ive owned. never had them crack or split. i run my cars hard. but i guess if they were to crack they would crack easier than stock solid rotors. the drilled/slotted rotors will perform much better then the solid stock ones. no doubt it will shorten up the stopping distance.

your right about the fluid. that is a key part.
i think a mc brace is also essential. for obvious reasons, especially if you are going to track the car.

stopping power is everything unless you are doing a 1/4mi.

also it didnt cost an arm and a leg for these parts.

under $500 for the mc brace, rotors, pads, ss lines, and brake fluid.
this is a full up grade. theres nothing better than that for the price.

unless you have 5g's or so to afford the 6pot calipers. which i dont think you really need unless you are making 300whp or more

i cant wait to install these goodies!
its going to be amusing when i jam on the brakes and all the shit on my rear seat comes flying at my windshield and cracks it because i forgot there was shit back there. i already had a soda can whip into my dashboard and explode HAHAHHA lol i wasnt laughing at the time.

i will have to call "close calls" "not so close calls" (actually that guy is like f***ing 3 blocks away. wtf am i saying? im no where near him. wow these breaks r good but F*** you guy in the minivan 3 blocks down for cutting me off anyway. what if i had stock brakes? it would be a horrific site for sure. or maybe i would stop 2&1/2 blocks away lol)

[atledreier]

Originally Posted by wparsons

IMO, stay away from drilled rotors. If you're actually heating up rotors a lot they'll crack easier than a blank rotor.

The only upgrade most owners will need for track driving is better pads and fluid.

With my summer tires I could overheat the stock pads in a couple corners, but with better pads and fluid I haven't overheated them yet.

What tires was this? I have tracked mine many times on Toyo R888 and haven't had a single issue with brakes except wearing them out. No fade whatsoever, and the track I drive is pretty mean to brakes.

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by NYCsubaruBRZ

the whole idea with drilled/slotted rotors is that they release the heat better and they dont allow the gasses that are being released from the pads to stay between the pad and rotor. so they actually make the car stop harder. and cooler brake temps. ive had drilled slotted rotors on every car or truck ive owned. never had them crack or split. i run my cars hard. but i guess if they were to crack they would crack easier than stock solid rotors. the drilled/slotted rotors will perform much better then the solid stock ones. no doubt it will shorten up the stopping distance.

^^ There's a very good reason no race cars run drilled rotors... slotted ones aren't bad, but they also aren't needed and just increase pad wear. Drilled and/or slotted rotors aren't going to increase stopping power at all.

http://automotivethinker.com/brakes-...d-and-warping/

http://www.autos.com/aftermarket-par...slotted-rotors

Originally Posted by atledreier

What tires was this? I have tracked mine many times on Toyo R888 and haven't had a single issue with brakes except wearing them out. No fade whatsoever, and the track I drive is pretty mean to brakes.

If you're running R888's and not getting pad fade on the OEM pads you're not braking anywhere near hard enough. I'm running Dunlop ZII's and was getting some fade after a single hot lap and if I pushed too hard beyond that they faded HARD, like an old mountain bike (before disc brakes) after riding through a puddle.

[NYCsubaruBRZ]

i have personally tested on 6 different cars/trucks solid vs drilled/slotted rotors and the stopping distance is night and day. try them for your self, you will see what im talking about

[SirBrass]

At most, upgrade your brake pads and change your brake fluid to RBF600.

[Captain Snooze]

Drilled- looks good on the street but highest NVH, not recommended for track use due to a propensity to crack.
http://www.essexpartsblog.com/news/d...s-and-pad-wear

Disadvantages.
Discs can be prone to cracking unless care taken when bedding in.
The use of hard race pads (high friction level) can cause cracking giving the disc a limited life.
You will find today that most forms of car motor sport will use grooved discs.
http://www.apracing.com/products/rac...ake_discs.aspx

Disadvantages
Cracks tend to form around drilled holes under hard braking or track racing
http://www.racingbrake.com/v/main/tw...finish=Drilled

The reason why rotors were drilled in the first place was to relieve the gas that was created when the pad material started to breakdown (burn). Since modern pads don’t gas off any significant amount, this is simply not a concern.
http://automotivethinker.com/brakes-...d-and-warping/ (Thanks wparsons)

In today's cars, if you use cross-drilled rotors under heavy load, such as on the race track, you're losing structural integrity even more than with a slotted rotor, which makes your rotors much more prone to cracking. Cross-drilled rotors are considered visually appealing in many situations.
http://www.autos.com/aftermarket-par...slotted-rotors