Is it worth swapping out just speakers?

[Jmt147]

I like the suggestion of just replacing the door speakers for some improvement instead of a full scale project. What speakers do those that know recommend?

[Prog]

Originally Posted by Jmt147

I like the suggestion of just replacing the door speakers for some improvement instead of a full scale project. What speakers do those that know recommend?

Seconding this question. I really don't want the bass in the doors, so even though there are currently mid/bass drivers there, would I be better off putting a component speaker (with no tweeter) down there (can you even do that? - buy a component speaker and just leave out the tweeter?), or a coaxial speaker (also with tweeters in the dash, would be scared that's too much tweeter)? With a sub in the trunk, I don't necessarily need the bass in the doors unless upgrading to a better set of mid/bass drivers would improve this "muddy"/unclear/empty-sounding bass issue.

[kmbkk]

What price range? And yes, installing a better midbass very likely will improve the muddiness.

[Mo707]

just a reminder a lot of frs' came with the head unit set to tC. make sure its set to frs. makes a world of difference. just a thought.

[Jmt147]

Say up to $250

[Prog]

Originally Posted by kmbkk

What price range? And yes, installing a better midbass very likely will improve the muddiness.

Interesting, good to know. Is it worth it to spend around $100 or less on that? Anything good in that area?

[Prog]

Originally Posted by Mo707

just a reminder a lot of frs' came with the head unit set to tC. make sure its set to frs. makes a world of difference. just a thought.

Don't have an FR-S and have an aftermarket head unit anyway, but thanks.

[crash.1340]

There are places online (maybe even in a retail store setting, who knows?) that sell just the mid-bass drivers themselves. If you go that route, choose one that's close to the factory specs, just of higher quality (if you plan to keep the factory amp, that is). The problem I've seen with the stock Subaru speakers is that they are indeed too muddy and they also play and resonate too high up in the frequency range. They're not cut off (low-pass) at a decent point or Subaru simply chose drivers with a really weak spider, surround, and coil. Aftermarket speakers usually play tighter and hit harder simply because of how they're designed, and they should give you that punch you want depending on who you go with.

Another option, after you choose your speakers, is to install a small amp to make them sound best. Sure, you can run it off your stock amp and they will be quite a bit better than factory, but you run the risk of blowing them prematurely because the factory amp is not exactly clean power, and It's easy to blow a speaker by underpowering it, especially with a sloppy signal. I recommend the Alpine KTP-445U for that. Wire it up to the harnesses where your factory amp go, it requires a 15A fuse (guess what the factory amp's fuse is rated at? Yep! 15A) and enjoy much better sound. It can be wired to provide each door speaker with 90W RMS which should be more than enough for a wide majority of aftermarket midbass drivers.

That's my $0.02.

[Prog]

Originally Posted by crash.1340

There are places online (maybe even in a retail store setting, who knows?) that sell just the mid-bass drivers themselves. If you go that route, choose one that's close to the factory specs, just of higher quality (if you plan to keep the factory amp, that is). The problem I've seen with the stock Subaru speakers is that they are indeed too muddy and they also play and resonate too high up in the frequency range. They're not cut off (low-pass) at a decent point or Subaru simply chose drivers with a really weak spider, surround, and coil. Aftermarket speakers usually play tighter and hit harder simply because of how they're designed, and they should give you that punch you want depending on who you go with.

Another option, after you choose your speakers, is to install a small amp to make them sound best. Sure, you can run it off your stock amp and they will be quite a bit better than factory, but you run the risk of blowing them prematurely because the factory amp is not exactly clean power, and It's easy to blow a speaker by underpowering it, especially with a sloppy signal. I recommend the Alpine KTP-445U for that. Wire it up to the harnesses where your factory amp go, it requires a 15A fuse (guess what the factory amp's fuse is rated at? Yep! 15A) and enjoy much better sound. It can be wired to provide each door speaker with 90W RMS which should be more than enough for a wide majority of aftermarket midbass drivers.

That's my $0.02.

Thank you for the advice. I have a few questions, if you don't mind.

First, any recommendations on mid/bass drivers in the $100ish area? More or less is fine, but I'd prefer to keep costs down.

Second, in regards to the amp you recommended, I'm assuming I'd have to cut the factory amp harness and solder the wires to the Alpine harness, right? I've never dealt with an amp before (my sub's amp is built in), so I guess I'd just be concerned with getting that wired up properly. I've done plenty of head unit installs, but those harnesses are color coded. I'd honestly rather not deal with this, so would I not be able to just pick up a pair of mid/bass drivers that would work with the stock amp and not be underpowered? I don't need it to be really loud, I just want the sound quality to be better.

[ArgentoAtl]

OP, I am so glad you asked this question. I have no knowledge of audio matters, but am disappointed with what I hear on my FRS, especially with music CDs. Muddiness seems to be *the* quality of my system for CD music, too. I am unlikely to add much to my audio system, unless there are really important minimal additions I should make, so my questions sort of fit with this thread, I hope.

As you recommended -- thanks -- I checked and the setting on my audio system is to FRS, so that is okay.

But I also am interested in the settings for sub woofer, ASL, and ASR. My radio system is the basic one from Pioneer.

1. Do I need to set the sub woofer to off or is there really a sub woofer already in the system and it is best when on?

2. Should I set the ASL to high for all audio (I listen mostly to audio books and music on CDs and music on FM radio)?

3. My system does not seem to have an ASR setting option in the audio controls, as was suggested by the system manual. Is that related to the sub woofer or what?

4. Any other suggestions on basic audio control settings or minimalist extras would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

Brian

[Prog]

Sorry, another noob question: what is the stock amp "rated" for? When buying replacement mid/bass, how many ohms should I be looking at, and the power ratings? Is the 140 watt 2 channel amp in the FR-S also in the BRZ? If so, does this mean it's a max of 70 watts per door speaker?

[Chimera]

see this thread
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42239

Originally Posted by Prog

Thank you for the advice. I have a few questions, if you don't mind.

First, any recommendations on mid/bass drivers in the $100ish area? More or less is fine, but I'd prefer to keep costs down.

Second, in regards to the amp you recommended, I'm assuming I'd have to cut the factory amp harness and solder the wires to the Alpine harness, right? I've never dealt with an amp before (my sub's amp is built in), so I guess I'd just be concerned with getting that wired up properly. I've done plenty of head unit installs, but those harnesses are color coded. I'd honestly rather not deal with this, so would I not be able to just pick up a pair of mid/bass drivers that would work with the stock amp and not be underpowered? I don't need it to be really loud, I just want the sound quality to be better.

[Prog]

Originally Posted by Chimera

see this thread
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42239

Thank you for the link, very interesting that the same harness for the head unit can also be used for the amp. Still looks like something I'd want to avoid, though.