Dealer Negotiation

[Whitigir]

Originally Posted by DeBiase

Also I don't have great credit, my girlfriend has not really built any credit yet, and her parents are not citizens so they don't have any credit. Any suggestions or help? I feel like that will be the most difficult hurdle as well.

U don't need to be citizen for credit. Bad credit will affect how u got your loans, ur gf never had credit that means her credit is good, no loans. Now proof of incomes, and she will land the lowest rate if not close.

Generally they will not ask for proof of income, if you have had a long good credit history, and will if u never had a credit. But depends on the dealer.

Just play their games, negotiate the car price first, then credit later. Usually if u got a deal on the car, they will try their best to land u a loan...otherwise they lose a customer.

[Whitigir]

Originally Posted by DeBiase

Dealer invoice correct? As in how much they paid for the car? I think I heard about that before. I have actually been trying to get that tip in particular. And last question can you explain the hold back a little. Even if it is brief. Thank you so much you have been very helpful

That is correct.

Hold back is the fee or dealer pocket money down on a car they have on the parking lot. This fee is their for the banking reason, as they loan from the bank to order a new car.

Until the car is sold, then the hold back is released...a bit confusing. But what it means is that the dealer invoice is not the actual price the manufacturer sold the car to the dealer, you subtract the hold back, and that is the real cost.

Say invoice is 25k. Hold back is 2k. That means the car cost 23k. Now this 23k does not include destination, dealer fees...commission ... Therefore the hold back. That 2k is dealer fees...commission for the worse deal. That 2k was paid by the dealer, and will not get released until the quarter end or so...depends on the bank. That makes it inconvenience to dip into it. So dealer hate it.

Normally they want to sell it at invoice or 500 below if they can sell u right away. They often trick the buyer into much lower below invoice if they combine the rebate.

Say Toyota rebate 1000. They offer u 500 below invoice, but they tell you 1500 below invoice. That means they get the rebate instead of you, and that deal is easy to land anywhere.

The rule is...anything 1-2k below invoice without rebate...the dealer barely make money. They nay even be pissed...at this point. This only apply to vehicles on their lot

So the best way is to approach it slowly, gently, while having the dealers compete each other, and show them your determination to buy, not just playing around.

There are more to it, as toward the end of year, end of month, specific color, milages on the car....the longer the car sit on the lot, the better you land your deal.

Please don't hate me, if any sale man read this

[DeBiase]

Originally Posted by dbrandt01

I'm the same way, my father (used to be a salesman) went with me. He says it's a big game with them, so we went in with two numbers. The number we wanted for my truck and stated we wouldn't go one dollar less or we'd walk. The price we wanted the car for and no added dealer nonsense to jack the cost up. (dealer tried to add $800 for the chrome stick on, rear diffuser, and trunk mat)

I agree with the don't be afraid to walk. We walked out when the dude came back with completely different numbers and he called back the next day saying we had a deal.

Did you keep the trunk mat and stuff or did they take it away?

[Whitigir]

There is another game as well. Manufacturer bonus game

The manufacturer will give bonus to the best volume dealer in the region...and it is huge...

This game is complicated...but generally, if you happen to be the last few buyers for them to get to their goal for that bonus...they will gladly sell to you much cheaper...even at their loss.

This is jackpot hitting for both....the dealer and the buyer.

The best way to do this is to come to a local dealer often...talk to the Manager...refer friends to buy...lease...trade to him. Tell him to put you on the list...whenever he needs a sold car for the year end bonus...give u a ring

[DeBiase]

Originally Posted by Whitigir

That is correct.

Hold back is the fee or dealer pocket money down on a car they have on the parking lot. This fee is their for the banking reason, as they loan from the bank to order a new car.

Until the car is sold, then the hold back is released...a bit confusing. But what it means is that the dealer invoice is not the actual price the manufacturer sold the car to the dealer, you subtract the hold back, and that is the real cost.

Say invoice is 25k. Hold back is 2k. That means the car cost 23k. Now this 23k does not include destination, dealer fees...commission ... Therefore the hold back. That 2k is dealer fees...commission for the worse deal. That 2k was paid by the dealer, and will not get released until the quarter end or so...depends on the bank. That makes it inconvenience to dip into it. So dealer hate it.

Normally they want to sell it at invoice or 500 below if they can sell u right away. They often trick the buyer into much lower below invoice if they combine the rebate.

Say Toyota rebate 1000. They offer u 500 below invoice, but they tell you 1500 below invoice. That means they get the rebate instead of you, and that deal is easy to land anywhere.

The rule is...anything 1-2k below invoice without rebate...the dealer barely make money. They nay even be pissed...at this point. This only apply to vehicles on their lot

So the best way is to approach it slowly, gently, while having the dealers compete each other, and show them your determination to buy, not just playing around.

There are more to it, as toward the end of year, end of month, specific color, milages on the car....the longer the car sit on the lot, the better you land your deal.

Please don't hate me, if any sale man read this

Thank you. And oddly enough I could not see under "pissed....at this point" which btw is hilarious, until I actually quoted you. I think I got it down now negotiate the overall price of the car using the steps. Two last questions...i think.... When I have gone before they talk about monthly payments as well as prove of the car. Should I disregard the monthly payment or at least give priority to overall price? And where would I see or notice that the price below invoice is put together with the rebate or if it is without the rebate? Thank again. I can't tell you how much I appreciate this. Probably the most important information I have gotten from this forum.

[DeBiase]

That's an interesting game! I want in! For my subie when ever I end up getting it. Also I asked the other poster but I feel you may also know the answer. When they charge you miscellaneous charges for such things as spoilers and trunk mats, do they take these away if you tell them you don't want to pay for that and you agreed to a different price for the car, as in dbrandt01 situation above?

[DeBiase]

Originally Posted by HeubergerMotors

Aww damn no

Jk it's ok you will be hearing from me in the future when my time comes for a new car.

[Whitigir]

Originally Posted by DeBiase

Thank you. And oddly enough I could not see under "pissed....at this point" which btw is hilarious, until I actually quoted you. I think I got it down now negotiate the overall price of the car using the steps. Two last questions...i think.... When I have gone before they talk about monthly payments as well as prove of the car. Should I disregard the monthly payment or at least give priority to overall price? And where would I see or notice that the price below invoice is put together with the rebate or if it is without the rebate? Thank again. I can't tell you how much I appreciate this. Probably the most important information I have gotten from this forum.

Ask them to show u the invoice. Tell them clearly that the deal you are willing to deal is without any rebates. You will want the rebates later on top of this deal.

Monthly payments is just a trick to make you feel bad and embarrassing that you can not afford it, and more than often people don't want to feel that way, they would totally forgot about the negotiation, but focus on the monthly payments vs the car trim....fe, Brz limited, or premium, manual or auto, options a...b...c...additional carpets...cargo net...whatever. Tell them you have no interested in those.

Tell them that you want this car, u done your home work, you know what options, color, you are looking for, if they have it on their lot or not. If they do...talk about the invoice and negotiate, if they don't ...say sorry....I will come back when u do...here is my phone...give me a ring.

[HeubergerMotors]

My suggestion,

Is from experience on not having a clue to now working for one. As per all my deals I give both hold backs and floor plan because I personally care more people vs a lower quantity of deals at more gross.

My suggestion is tell them to bring the invoice. Inspect the sheet it should say holdback or HB, subtract at least 1 under invoice for an okay deal two if possible.

Now remember some dealers are LOWER volume, meaning they can not afford to go lower.

[Whitigir]

Originally Posted by DeBiase

That's an interesting game! I want in! For my subie when ever I end up getting it. Also I asked the other poster but I feel you may also know the answer. When they charge you miscellaneous charges for such things as spoilers and trunk mats, do they take these away if you tell them you don't want to pay for that and you agreed to a different price for the car, as in dbrandt01 situation above?

They will not take things away on the car, as it was how they ordered it. But you can always look at another car, another color maybe, or wait until they have it.

[Whitigir]

Originally Posted by HeubergerMotors

My suggestion,

Is from experience on not having a clue to now working for one. As per all my deals I give both hold backs and floor plan because I personally care more people vs a lower quantity of deals at more gross.

My suggestion is tell them to bring the invoice. Inspect the sheet it should say holdback or HB, subtract at least 1 under invoice for an okay deal two if possible.

Now remember some dealers are LOWER volume, meaning they can not afford to go lower.

Exactly Heuber.

It is all depends on the dealer volume, and the way you talk.

I am totally agree with you on the more gross sales > more profit sales.

But if I was a buyer of any 86, I would ring Heuber.

[HeubergerMotors]

Originally Posted by Whitigir

Exactly Heuber.

It is all depends on the dealer volume, and the way you talk.

I am totally agree with you on the more gross sales > more profit sales.

But if I was a buyer of any 86, I would ring Heuber.

Thank you.

[dbrandt01]

Originally Posted by DeBiase

Did you keep the trunk mat and stuff or did they take it away?

I got to keep all of the stuff that was in that added package.

[DeBiase]

Originally Posted by Whitigir

Ask them to show u the invoice. Tell them clearly that the deal you are willing to deal is without any rebates. You will want the rebates later on top of this deal.

Monthly payments is just a trick to make you feel bad and embarrassing that you can not afford it, and more than often people don't want to feel that way, they would totally forgot about the negotiation, but focus on the monthly payments vs the car trim....fe, Brz limited, or premium, manual or auto, options a...b...c...additional carpets...cargo net...whatever. Tell them you have no interested in those.

Tell them that you want this car, u done your home work, you know what options, color, you are looking for, if they have it on their lot or not. If they do...talk about the invoice and negotiate, if they don't ...say sorry....I will come back when u do...here is my phone...give me a ring.

Thank you so much I truly appreciate it. Also I do want the limited over the premium tho. Should I tell them I would not want it? Is there a way I could manage that like let say there is a blue limited and a black premium and I say I want the blue one I want to pay the same amount as the black one and lets say those are the only two in stock possibly for a while? I'll probably buy from Heubergermotors. I'm just curious as to what you suggest in that scenario. As well as Heuber's opinion