What is the highest HP/Torque going all motor?

[suaveflooder]

Originally Posted by DoomsdayJesus

This is what I came to post. CF driveshaft is where you're going to get insane bang for your buck. From everything I've seen, past the header replacement you're wasting money buying an exhaust even with a tune.

Keep in mind, people love to throw stupid large heavy wheels on their cars and it's no different. If you can get lighter wheels, tires, driveshaft, flywheel, and crank pulley you're looking at seriously increasing WHP without touching the exhaust.

I thought it was header and overpipe? I was under the impression that the rest of the exhaust flows pretty well. The stop up is in the front.

[Anthony]

I went full engine back simply to save weight. Any power gains are merely an unnecessary but fun byproduct.

I should save ~49.5 pounds compared to stock.

[Jive Turkey]

Originally Posted by campy

Really? Those are two of the best things about this car in stock form.

until you drive a tuned brz you wont know what throttle response you are missing.

my car put down 176/151 on a mustang dyno with all i have is a perrin intake and catback (so no serious mods)

i think breaking 200 is possible but like people said, how deep are your wallets. i think what i'm going to do is go the Header front pipe and get tuned then eventually go the SC route if the motors are holding up.

but i really like the idea of being NA...there is some kind of je ne said quoi about being all motor.

[Circuit Motorsports]

Best bet is to go with a High Quality EL header, exhaust, Intake (if you want), and a tune.

From there you can decide where to go, and how much you want to spend,

A lightweight flywheel and Clutch will help free up some rotational mass.

As mentioned already, Carbon fiber Driveshaft, pulleys, wheels, etc. will help.

you could go ab it further on the NA power with a Flex-Fuel tune, or keep an eye out for some good NA powermods like Cams, Intake Manifold, headwork to rev it etc.

If you really just want 225whp and you don't care about staying NA then just go with a S/C kit, get the power you want (and more) and be done with it, for less money. The nice thing about going with a S/C is pretyy much all of the above "NA" mods will work with a S/C kit and gain you more power.

Or go Nitrous

[WHITE]

Surprised nobody is looking into higher compession for more power. If boosted guys are pushing 10psi on 93 with 12.5:1 cr im sure a bump up in compression is do able, and pretty easy.....assuming that shaving the head and block dont affect the DI spray angle negatively.

[diss7]

Toda hi-comp stroker kit will be out soon. If you're baller enough that is.

Read a comment above about just putting an innovate sc kit on. I thought that as well. So I bought one. 4 weeks later I took it off and sold it.

Nothing beats NA.

[DoomsdayJesus]

Originally Posted by suaveflooder

I thought it was header and overpipe? I was under the impression that the rest of the exhaust flows pretty well. The stop up is in the front.

I'm not certain about the overpipe, but from what Bob @DriftOffice has told me and what I saw on his dynos, it was primarily just the headers if I'm correct. He did also mention with exception to the JDL UELs which are a fart under the HKS EL in gains, that UEL is definitely the way to go for performance if you don't care about sound. My personal opinion has always been function over form, so I could give a crap if ELs don't sound as good as long as they're top performers.

Sure you're going to get weight reduction and a lovely look and sound from a full exhaust, but it's money better spent elsewhere first if you're going for speed. For just over the price of most full header-back exhausts you can get a CF driveshaft which is going to give you an immense benefit over the exhaust.

And as far as FI goes, I wouldn't consider SC over a turbo. Especially the AVO kit.

[diss7]

Re final drive. Best way to calc what to get is to base in on your local race track.

Our gearing is pretty good in these cars, except for 5th to 6th, its a big jump, certainly not one you want to have to make on a race track. When calculating this way, also consider that you may have extra revs to play with.

For example, my 200rwhp NA ae86 hits 5th gear limiter about 100m before I need to brake. That's with a 4.3 FD, which seems tall, but I run 195/50/15. In 5th (which is 1:1 like most 6 speeds) @ 8000rpm, its doing 202km/h. Changing the FD to 4.1, gives me 211km/h at the same revs in 5th.

So, I know that for myself, I want to aim around that 210km/h mark for the new 86. Because, even if it gets to 200rwhp, it won't weight 900kg like the ae86 does.

I run 205/40/17 semis on the new 86. And I'll work to my rev limit being 7800rpm. Based on that, 4.1 is ideal for me. Say if I swapped out to a 4.5, I'd only reach 194km/h in 5th.

What I'm getting at, is don't just assume "ZOMG final drive is teh business!11!1!!one!"
It moves all your gearing.

You need to do your own calc before changing final drive. Your rev range, tyre circumference, and target speed at a particular point, are all critical variables.

And I for one, certainly want to avoid the 5th - 6th change on the back straight.

[StormTrooper]

For the money I'm doing headers ( hks el or nameless if they ever get released) 2.5"dp , tune, aluminium ds(Axel exchange ), light battery (shorai LFX 27/36) depending on money and juice required.


Seems to be the best bang for your buck so far.

[DoomsdayJesus]

Although after watching 2 Phantom electric superchargers on the dyno and the beautiful torque curve on them, I'm seriously considering it. I just wish it turned on below 80-85% throttle. But once they get the intake obstruction issues fixed (coming soon I hear) that thing is going to be an AWESOME and cost effective FI solution that can be removed in 30-45 minutes.

Seriously, Bob at Drift Office will set you straight. Exhaust should be an afterthought after you're done with everything else, unless you're going full FI. Even then, the gains didn't seem to be anything spectacular.

[Captain Insano]

Yep like the others said I plan to stay NA and do header, tune, FD, and lots of lighter weight parts.

[Fast_Freddy]

Originally Posted by Anthony

I think I read one time that a (very) general rule of thumb is that E85 gets about 15% less distance per volume than E10 or E0. I've never even seen an E85 pump in real life, so I'm certainly not the expert. But I do know that if it's 15% less efficient but 45% cheaper, it's still cheaper.

According to the EPA and other sources the average difference in fuel economy between e85 and e10 is ~25% lower for e85 and closer to ~30% lower than undiluted gasoline.

Originally Posted by TwinturboCamry

Of course 225 NA is possible. How big is your wallet?

I'm not saying that 225whp NA isn't "possible" but has anyone actually done it? I've yet to see more than 210whp NA.

[Nafe]

I have heard of 2.1 or 2.2L overbore in Japan. Shortblock only. Forged pistons and i *think* lighter rods. Can't remember the company though. I would consider overbore/stroking providing it didn't compromise revs.