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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.

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Old 10-28-2013, 11:17 AM   #15
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I'm lucky to be in the midwest. There is an abundance of E85 here so I run it almost exclusively in the summer. Due to cold start issues, and snow i go back toy stock tune for the winter to keep the spinning tires down.

Althogh your mpg may go down, the cost per gallon is down as well and my actual cost per mile on 85 is below 93 at least here in the midwest.

I've also run it in my car for well over 15k miles inclucing several autocrosses with no adverse effects.
Yeah, premium is sitting around $3.26 right now. E85 is $2.87. There's only a couple stations in the area that have it currently, but the number is growing. Who knows, I may try it later on. The free power gain it provides is pretty awesome. Not to mention, it makes running boost a lot safer.
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Old 10-28-2013, 11:57 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by FR-S Matt View Post
Yeah, premium is sitting around $3.26 right now. E85 is $2.87. There's only a couple stations in the area that have it currently, but the number is growing. Who knows, I may try it later on. The free power gain it provides is pretty awesome. Not to mention, it makes running boost a lot safer.
E85 for me ranges from 2.20-2.60 while pump is around $4 per.
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Old 10-28-2013, 12:22 PM   #17
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I think I read one time that a (very) general rule of thumb is that E85 gets about 15% less distance per volume than E10 or E0. I've never even seen an E85 pump in real life, so I'm certainly not the expert. But I do know that if it's 15% less efficient but 45% cheaper, it's still cheaper.
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Old 10-28-2013, 12:33 PM   #18
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Really? Those are two of the best things about this car in stock form.
I meant new tires would be helpful..

And I didn't wanna mess up the current throttle response.

I worded it very poorly...was kinda in a hurry. Was posting at work between patients.
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Old 10-28-2013, 12:41 PM   #19
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Just slap an Innovate kit on and call it good.
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Old 10-28-2013, 12:45 PM   #20
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As @Anthony mentioned, intake, exhaust and tune will help, but also getting rid of rotational mass. Light weight Crank, light weight flywheel, carbon fiber drive shaft, light weight wheels and gears are going to be the best bang for your buck if you want to stay NA. You won't have the actual horse power to back it up, but the car is going to rev faster (and get up to speed faster) and a lighter car is always a good thing.

I'm not planning on doing much to my car, but this would be the rout I would do if I get bitten by the mod bug. I've owned a couple factory supercharged cobras and heat was ALWAYS an issue.
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Old 10-28-2013, 12:47 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by suaveflooder View Post
As @Anthony mentioned, intake, exhaust and tune will help, but also getting rid of rotational mass.
Good point. And if we're going to get into that, I have two powerful words:

FINAL. DRIVE.
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Old 10-28-2013, 12:48 PM   #22
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Personally, I'm thinking 4.88, but I've been called crazy before.
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Old 10-28-2013, 12:53 PM   #23
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Personally, I'm thinking 4.88, but I've been called crazy before.
I was looking at 4.55's to keep my mileage somewhat decent, but 4.88's would do the trick nicely!
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Old 10-28-2013, 12:56 PM   #24
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The installation of the 4.88 gearing would double as a funeral for 1st gear outside of standing starts. I'm fine with that, though.
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Old 10-28-2013, 01:29 PM   #25
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Mines a dd so if anything I want a taller 6th gear not shorter.

As for weight I think 100-150 is the most keeping stock interior and not spending 10k on brakes wheels and seats...

Personally I'd bore it out to 2.2L before putting 3500 into seats or 1k into shorter drive
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Old 10-28-2013, 01:38 PM   #26
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Do the light weight crank pulleys make a noticeable difference/and are they reliable?

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
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Old 10-28-2013, 01:43 PM   #27
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Quote:
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Personally I'd bore it out to 2.2L before putting 3500 into seats or 1k into shorter drive
Has anyone done that yet? I haven't actually gone looking, but I've only seen it mentioned hypothetically. The only engine I've ever actually looked into having bored out was a Toyota 2ZZ, but the cylinders in that engine are too close together. So I've gotten used to the idea of engine boring being an unrealistic idea, but... this is a whole new engine to me.
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Old 10-28-2013, 01:45 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by suaveflooder View Post
As @Anthony mentioned, intake, exhaust and tune will help, but also getting rid of rotational mass.
This is what I came to post. CF driveshaft is where you're going to get insane bang for your buck. From everything I've seen, past the header replacement you're wasting money buying an exhaust even with a tune.

Keep in mind, people love to throw stupid large heavy wheels on their cars and it's no different. If you can get lighter wheels, tires, driveshaft, flywheel, and crank pulley you're looking at seriously increasing WHP without touching the exhaust.
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