Pinch weld jack point paint damage?

[ayau]

I had the same problem with these jack stand pads as well. The pinch holes on the pads were so small that the car's pinch welds didn't slide right in the middle of the pad, causing the paint to rub against the pad and flaking.

I put some touch-up paint on the pinch welds to cover up the bare metal. From that point forward, I only use the jack stands. They have a pretty flat surface and only the bottom of the pinch welds touch the jack stands.

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by Miniata

For swapping wheels/tires, I never use jack stands, because I'm never under the car. Just a floor jack with a hockey puck (with a slit cut in it) to protect the pinch weld, and I lift one side of the car at a time. Works great, no damage to the pinch weld or paint.

This is exactly what I do and it even works with my wife's Q5.

-Dennis

[Ingen]

Originally Posted by Miniata

For swapping wheels/tires, I never use jack stands, because I'm never under the car. Just a floor jack with a hockey puck (with a slit cut in it) to protect the pinch weld, and I lift one side of the car at a time. Works great, no damage to the pinch weld or paint.

Okay, the slot is cut deep enough so that the pinch weld doesn't touch the puck?

And where do you place the jack? in the middle of the sill on that side, or on one of the points? to lift the whole side of the car I would think it would have to be toward the middle, but... enlighten me! I don't want to accidentally twist my car, lol.

[Noob4Life]

The best way to lift the whole front of your car is either by the subframe or two jacks on either side pinch weld. Jacking them up equally little by little. Lifting up one side all the way by the pinch weld will twist the car and may cause the weld to bend. My jetta is a unibody (idk if the frs is), and when I have one side jacked up too much I cant even open my passengers side door because the body is flexed so much.

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[zc06_kisstherain]

hmm what about adaptor?

[Miniata]

Originally Posted by Ingen

Okay, the slot is cut deep enough so that the pinch weld doesn't touch the puck?

And where do you place the jack? in the middle of the sill on that side, or on one of the points? to lift the whole side of the car I would think it would have to be toward the middle, but... enlighten me! I don't want to accidentally twist my car, lol.

No, the slot on the hockey puck isn't deep enough to keep the pinch weld from touching the puck. If it would be, the puck would be cut in half, or very nearly so. I cut the slot in the puck about halfway through, to preserve the integrity of the puck, much deeper and I would risk the weight of the car cutting the puck in half. I've used the same slot-cut puck on all six of our cars (several much heavier than the BRZ) to jack it up on the pinch welds and never had any damage to the pinchwelds whatsoever. If you are really concerned about not jacking against the pinch weld directly, you can use the Flyin' Miata jack adapter, I have one and it is a good piece, but still use the hockey puck most of the time.

I always jack at the stock jack points on the pinch welds on all of my cars. The pinch welds are reinforced at the stock jack points, and on most of my cars that are low to the ground with limited suspension travel (like the BRZ, Mini, Miata) jacking at the front point will work to lift both tires off the ground on that side.

[Miniata]

Originally Posted by Noob4Life

The best way to lift the whole front of your car is either by the subframe or two jacks on either side pinch weld. Jacking them up equally little by little. Lifting up one side all the way by the pinch weld will twist the car and may cause the weld to bend. My jetta is a unibody (idk if the frs is), and when I have one side jacked up too much I cant even open my passengers side door because the body is flexed so much.

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There is no risk to twisting our cars by jacking up at just one jack point on the side to lift the entire side of our cars.

[Noob4Life]

Originally Posted by Miniata

There is no risk to twisting our cars by jacking up at just one jack point on the side to lift the entire side of our cars.

Yeah that's why I said with my car because it's a unibody and that I wasn't sure about the FR-S. Thank god for that, I'm so tired of the creaking I get from my car being unibody lol slammed + unibody = a lot of body flex and creaking.

[Miniata]

Originally Posted by Noob4Life

Yeah that's why I said with my car because it's a unibody and that I wasn't sure about the FR-S. Thank god for that, I'm so tired of the creaking I get from my car being unibody lol slammed + unibody = a lot of body flex and creaking.

Yeah, I've had my share of VW's in the past, including the Jetta my wife owned we when got married, and they were all quite a bit more flexible than the BRZ is.

[wbradley]

Of course the twins are monocot or unitized body construction.

Not sure they even make cars body on frame any more.

[Ingen]

Originally Posted by wbradley

Of course the twins are monocot or unitized body construction.

Not sure they even make cars body on frame any more.

Just about every pickup / truck is body-on-frame, but I think we've seen the end of the BOF car days.

I won't miss them

[imom]

Raising this thread back up since I got my car last month. When I cut the hockey puck, would it be okay for the top hockey puck to come into contact and support the weight of of the topside of the pinch weld where it becomes part of the foot well area?

Or am I suppose to have slot of hockey puck only touch from the bottom of the slot of the hockey puck to the bottom side of the pinch weld? I hope what I am describing makes sense.

[dehydratedH2O]

the bottom of the pinch weld is not supposed to touch the puck. look at the yellow jack pad supporting the pinch weld in the other picture to see.

[Suberman]

Using a small block of softwood with a slot cut in it works fine and is easier to make the a slotted hockey puck as well as thicker.