Adding 30 hp!!!

[jflogerzi]

Originally Posted by hmong337

The mod that will make your most gains would be a tune... depending on tuner of course. I'd do an OpenFlash Tablet and see how much you can extract. Better yet, there are already stage 1 maps you can upload. That's the only mod I see worth getting in the early quest for power as you can continue to tune it and tweak it. Whereas an intake, exhaust, and header would just resort to a storage bin later when going turbo.

Fa20club turbo kit seems to be the bang for the buck from what I see on the market presently. If you got the skills, making you own custom kit would be the way to go.

Turbo is like a 100whp increase. Worth saving for imo; versus doing i/h/e +tune, then having to redo everything over when you turbo... Doing a proper i/h/e/tune still will set you back a decent chunk.of coin that, imo, would be better off putting towards a turbo system.

That my $0.02

While true, If OP goes the SC route, the headers can stay. Or in the case of the FA20club turbo, he can get there EL Header and reuse when buying the turbo and get a discount as well

[Grymm86]

for 30hp increase, go E85 if you can.

[Fast_Freddy]

Hmmm... if you believe the manufacturer and vendor claims:

Header = +10-20whp
Over-pipe = +3-4whp
Front pipe = +5-10whp
Cat-back = +10-15whp
Drop-in air filter = +5whp
Silicone intake tube = +3-4whp
Light Crank pulley = +3-4whp
Stage 2 Tune = +20whp
------------------------------------------

Total = 59-82whp!!!

or +25whp on a dyno in the real world.

[FR-Sizzle]

Originally Posted by Fast_Freddy

Hmmm... if you believe the manufacturer and vendor claims:

Header = +10-20whp
Over-pipe = +3-4whp
Front pipe = +5-10whp
Cat-back = +10-15whp
Drop-in air filter = +5whp
Silicone intake tube = +3-4whp
Light Crank pulley = +3-4whp
Stage 2 Tune = +20whp
------------------------------------------

Total = 59-82whp!!!

or +25whp on a dyno in the real world.

Dont forget a fat wing and stickers for another 20. Oh and a rusted hood for another 30 for that aerodynamics shitzz

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by Fast_Freddy

Hmmm... if you believe the manufacturer and vendor claims:

Header = +10-20whp
Over-pipe = +3-4whp
Front pipe = +5-10whp
Cat-back = +10-15whp
Drop-in air filter = +5whp
Silicone intake tube = +3-4whp
Light Crank pulley = +3-4whp
Stage 2 Tune = +20whp
------------------------------------------

Total = 59-82whp!!!

or +25whp on a dyno in the real world.

The problem is that they don't always claim the hp gain at the hp peak, but the biggest gain at some point in the RPM range. So a part might add 5whp at 6000rpm, but only 1whp at the actual peak.

More important than the peak number is area under the curve, reducing (or eliminating) the torque dip makes a huge difference in daily driving, and having a wide flat torque curve is much faster than something with a very narrow peaky torque curve.

[Gary in NJ]

People always say they want more horsepower, when in fact what they desire is more torque. And it's where the torque is added that counts. If I want to look sexy on the dyno, sure give 500 hp. But for a car I'm gonna drive everyday, I'll take steady dose of torque, the sooner the better.

[FR-S Matt]

Originally Posted by Gary in NJ

People always say they want more horsepower, when in fact what they desire is more torque. And it's where the torque is added that counts. If I want to look sexy on the dyno, sure give 500 hp. But for a car I'm gonna drive everyday, I'll take steady dose of torque, the sooner the better.

My girlfriend just got a Dart with the 1.4L turbo. That car has 184 ft lbs of torque with that tiny engine! You are absolutely right. I love torque.

[ML]

Swap the final gear and you can just FEEL like you got 30hp

[Jason@DSG]

In my experience a single mod doesn't really do that much. Most manufacturer claims are on un-tuned cars. I've seen intakes claim to make +16.8whp/12wtq then when the car gets tuned, make 2.1whp/-3wtq!!

For example, if you do just a cat-back, while yes it will reduce some back-pressure, the catalytic converter is always the most restrictive OEM component on any exhaust system. You could have a 3" full cat-back, but it's only as good the flow from the engine. The sound will be great, but power won't be greatly increased.

BUT, if you do a full line, or at least front pipe + cat-back, now you've definitely increased the flow. Throw the under pipe on there, and headers, that will make a huge difference. The entire line from the engine is non-restrictive and those manufacturer claims will be a lot more accurate.

Then to compliment that add an intake. Typically any car doing a full exhaust line + intake will yield noticeable differences. Sadly, you can't expect to feel or notice any gains from a $40 panel filter only while the rest of the components are restrictive.

Another mod that I find makes a HUGE difference are lightweight wheels. Every 1lb. of rotational mass that's removed = the same as 10lbs. removed of the car. Changing the flywheel/carbon drive shaft/rims on my car was a total of 55lbs. of rotational mass removed. That's roughly the equivalent if I were to take 550lbs. out of my car. You wouldn't believe how much more responsive it was...I couldn't believe it!

So to summarize, one small mod won't make a difference. But a couple, still staying within a reasonable budget, can definitely make a difference but they have to work together.

[Jason@DSG]

Originally Posted by FR-S Matt

My girlfriend just got a Dart with the 1.4L turbo. That car has 184 ft lbs of torque with that tiny engine! You are absolutely right. I love torque.

But hp numbers are equally important for performance, and depending on application. For example, a truck needs more torque and less power since the gearing is designed to do "work" rather than "rate of work".

Torque is great to give you that off the line power and push you forward. However, horsepower is the only way for you to use that torque. Torque is a unit of 'work'. You can make torque without actually moving. Once the torque is used for something, it's called 'work' measured in ft-lb like on a car. If your engine/car mass/gearbox don't require much torque to "work", you can use much more of the horsepower for actual power, or rate of work. Basically, taking the "work" your engine can do and how fast of a rate it can work at.

Trucks with huge gearboxes designed to haul massive amounts of weight at low rpm, need a ton of torque to turn the heavy-duty driveshafts and gears, but don't need much horsepower since they don't need to do this "Work" at a really fast pace. That's why most race cars have high HP, but lower torque. The lightweight gearbox, driveshaft and low car weight require very little "work" from the engine to move it. Therefore, the higher HP can use the torque (even if a lower amount) at a much faster rate.

Too much torque on a car that doesn't need it just ends up being a burnout machine and terrible on the track.

I have an AWD car with a ton of components to turn like front and rear diffs, transaxles, twin-clutch transmission, relatively heavy car so I need a lot of torque to get all those parts moving. Then high HP to still have power.

It's something for you guys to consider seeing your cars are RWD.

[Figo]

TRD sticker on windshield + 15whp;
Sti tuning sticker on fuse box cover +5whp;
T emblem on trunk +20whp;

Only +40whp. so I think you might need a drop in filter, a catback, and a EL header for the other +10.

[Jason@DSG]

Originally Posted by Figo

TRD sticker on windshield + 15whp;
Sti tuning sticker on fuse box cover +5whp;
T emblem on trunk +20whp;

Only +40whp. so I think you might need a drop in filter, a catback, and a EL header for the other +10.

Haha!

[Circuit Motorsports]

Best way to achieve 20-30whp would be:

`Good quality EL header + Front pipe & Overpipe + Catback

`Intake

`Ecutek custom tune.

Actual power gains will depend on octane used, altitude, car variables etc., but this will get you really close to your goals while staying N/A.

We got 17whp on a basically stock car, factory exhausts all the way to the muffler, no intake on 93 octane.

Feel free to PM us fi you want some more help or info

-Tristan

[ZDan]

Originally Posted by Jason@DSG

Another mod that I find makes a HUGE difference are lightweight wheels. Every 1lb. of rotational mass that's removed = the same as 10lbs. removed of the car. Changing the flywheel/carbon drive shaft/rims on my car was a total of 55lbs. of rotational mass removed. That's roughly the equivalent if I were to take 550lbs. out of my car. You wouldn't believe how much more responsive it was...I couldn't believe it!

10:1 for rotational mass is often repeated, but it's a GROSS exaggeration.
Removing 1 lb. of wheel mass will improve acceleration more than removing 1 lb. of non-rotational mass, but the effective ratio is more like 1.4, not 10. For tires, it's about 1.9x.
It will be a different factor for the driveshaft and a different factor again for the flywheel, and those factors will depend on what gear you're in as well (bigger effect in lower gears).

*IF* removing 55 lb. of rotational mass is really the same as removing 550 lb., you would be good for about 102mph in the 1/4 with the stock 200hp. But that ain't happenin...